Quantcast
Channel: Raiders of the Lost Scent
Viewing all 110 articles
Browse latest View live

SMELL FESTIVAL 2016 : Magiae Naturalis.

$
0
0

Illustrazione © Georges Bousquet - Casajordi.

(primo comunicato)

A Smell Festival 2016 il profumo è “Magiae Naturalis”.
Dal 18 al 22 maggio 2016 torna a Bologna “Smell - Festival dell’olfatto”, la rassegna dedicata alla cultura dell’olfatto e all’arte del profumo.“Magiae Naturalis” è il tema scelto per la VII edizione che con ospiti internazionali, installazioni e percorsi dedicati alla profumeria botanica, celebra la figura del “profumiere-mago” e la natura quale riferimento imprescindibile per ogni cultore di fragranze.


Bologna, 01 marzo 2016. Magiae Naturalisè il tema della 7a edizione di Smell - Festival dell’Olfatto, la rassegna dedicata alla cultura dell'olfatto e all'arte del profumo in programma dal 18 al 22 maggio a Bologna. Promosso dall'associazione Orablu, il Festival si avvale della collaborazione di Istituzione Bologna Musei. 
Il titolo della 7a edizione si rifà all'omonimo libro di Giovanni Battista Della Porta: umanista, scienziato e alchimista napoletano che contribuì a diffondere le tecniche di distillazione e l’arte profumiera nel tardo Rinascimento. La “magia naturale” evocata dalla rassegna vede come protagonista la figura del profumiere-mago conoscitore dei segreti della natura e partecipe dei processi di trasformazione del reale attraverso la combinazione degli elementi e la conoscenza dei loro “magici abbracciamenti”.

Sede principale della rassegna il Museo internazionale e biblioteca della musica di Bologna, dove sabato 21 e domenica 22 maggio, sarà protagonista la profumeria botanica di Olfattiva, che trasformerà lo spazio-mostre del Museo in un giardino mediterraneo. Tra tappeti d'erba e aranci in fiore, cucurbite spagiriche e alambicchi, quella di Olfattiva sarà un'oasi in cui il pubblico potrà svolgere esperienze sensoriali e laboratori dedicati alla profumeria naturale

© Smell Festival.

Fin dalla sua prima edizione Smell Festival ha stretto un legame particolarmente fecondo con il settore della profumeria artistica e selettiva su cui la rassegna anche quest'anno si focalizza grazie agli interventi di rappresentanti italiani e internazionali. Tra questi, Oliver Valverde fondatore del marchio di fragranze indipendente Oliver & Co con base a Madrid i cui profumi si nutrono di diverse ispirazioni: dall'illustrazione botanica fino allo spazio cosmico. Gli archetipi olfattivi naturali sono rivisitati da Valverde in chiave avanguardista. Futuring Natureè il titolo della sua presentazione al Museo della musica, durante la quale condividerà con il pubblico la sua visione della profumeria nel 21esimo secolo. Noto per essere un autodidatta, Valverde condurrà anche un workshop di profumeria dove i partecipanti verranno in contatto con il suo metodo di composizione basato sull'intuizione estemporanea, sull'astrazione e sulla sperimentazione libera da finalità. Sarà inoltre artefice di una installazione appositamente creata per Smell Festival, che mostrerà attraverso tavole, immagini e reperti olfattivi, il percorso inventivo attraverso cui ha tradotto l'immagine di una nebulosa cosmica in un profumo. 
© Oliver & Co Perfumes - Gincense

Sempre al Museo della musica, contribuiranno a sviluppare il tema “Magiae Naturalis” Alessandro Brun e Riccardo Tedeschi fondatori di Masque Milano che spiegheranno al pubblico come un profumo può interpretare l'essenza odorosa e simbolica del Narciso, fiore ricco di echi mitologici e letterari attorno a cui ruota Romanza - Victorian Narcissus, l'ultima fragranza della Casa. L'essenza pregiata di Narcissus Poeticus, coltivato in Francia e lavorato nei Laboratoire Monique Remy (leader per le materie prime naturali) è stata utilizzata per comporre questo profumo che, nell'intento dei due direttori creativi di Masque, diviene emblema della gloriosa epoca vittoriana ed esaltazione, in puro stile dandy, dell'artificio come antidoto creativo alla ripetitività della natura. Perché come diceva Oscar Wilde, “Un bel fiore all'occhiello è l'unica cosa che collega l'arte alla natura."

© Smell Festival.

Imperdibile anche l'appuntamento con Room 1015 marchio francese fondato da Michael Partouche (in arte Dr Mike). Il nome del brand si rifà alla stanza dello Hyatt Hotel di Los Angeles preferita da band come i Rolling Stones e The Who, nota per essere la più distrutta nella storia del rock’n’roll. In fuga da un disciplinato destino di farmacista, Dr Mike scopre il potere salvifico della chitarra elettrica e da qui, incrociando le note di una Gibson con quelle delle sostanze odorose, realizza le sue potenti pozioni profumate: visioni ad alto volume che il 21 maggio saranno presentate al Museo della musica di Bologna nel corso di un evento che vedrà il loro ideatore, Dr Mike, imbracciare la chitarra elettrica per seminare brividi rock

In relazione al tema della rassegna non poteva mancare un riferimento al giardino, luogo di delizie e appagamento sensoriale. A creare questo importante collegamento, sarà un laboratorio dedicato all'universo odoroso del Parco e del Giardino della Reggia di Caserta condotto da Addolorata Ines Peduto e Gerardo Pasquale Iodice domenica 22 maggio. Il percorso sensoriale si snoda nel Bosco Vecchio, un'area del Parco risalente all'epoca cinquecentesca, e nel Giardino Inglese realizzato nel 1786 per desiderio di Maria Carolina, Regina di Napoli. Nel corso del tempo, il Parco con i suoi 120 ettari e il Giardino Inglese, esteso su 23 ettari, sono diventati un complesso di enorme importanza botanica per le specie autoctone esistenti e le specie esotiche, alcune delle quali sono oggi dei veri e propri monumenti viventi. Al Museo della musica di Bologna il pubblico avrà l'occasione di conoscere parte di questo patrimonio attraverso campioni botanici come foglie, fiori, frutti, coni, rametti, cortecce pregustando la visita speciale alla Reggia di Caserta che Smell Festival organizzerà nel corso dell'estate. 
Parco della Reggia di Caserta

Se l'olfatto è spesso considerato il più istintivo e “animale” dei nostri sensi, un altro ospite speciale di Smell Festival, Salesse Roland, ricercatore presso l'Unità di Neurobiologia dell'Olfatto dell'INRA (Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique), farà riflettere sulla valenza culturale ed estetica della percezione degli odori partendo da considerazioni relative alla natura e fisiologia dell'olfatto. Salesse si occupa da decenni di sensorialità olfattiva spaziando dalla biologia fino alle più recenti applicazioni di questa sfera sensoriale in ambito artistico e teatrale, oggetto anche del suo saggio "Le spectateur olfactif” (in L'Art olfactif contemporain Ed. C. Jaquet, Les Classiques Garnier, Paris, 2015).
Parco della Reggia di Caserta

A partire dal 18 maggio, nei giorni precedenti il weekend, Smell Festival coinvolge altre sedi come il Grand Hotel Majestic "già" Baglioni, 5 stelle lusso di Bologna. È qui che venerdì 20 maggio si svolge il Perfume Showcase, serata dedicata a una selezione di prestigiosi marchi di profumeria, con un'attenzione particolare verso nuovi format e proposte. Durante l'evento, nella “sala Vignola” dell'Hotel, Essenses Creative Lab presenta “Beyond Appearances” un gioco interattivo che coinvolgerà il pubblico in percorsi tematici incentrati sulle fragranze fiore all'occhiello di questa casa di distribuzione italiana: Stephane Humbert Lucas acclamato naso francese; Arty Fragrance di Elisabeth de Feydeau con i suoi prodotti ispirati alla Reggia di Versailles; Le Galion, casa fondata nel 1930 dal principe Murat; Jovoy, marchio legato alla celebre profumeria parigina e al suo ambasciatore, François Hénin; Olfactive Studio nato dall'incontro tra fotografi e creatori di fragranze; Altaia, nuovo progetto dei fondatori di Eau d’Italie che racchiude i frammenti di una storia ambientata in Argentina. E, ancora, Aedes de Venustas simbolo della qualità e del lusso dell’alta profumeria; Eight & Bob la mitica fragranza artigianale amata da Bob Kennedy; il brand newyorkese Nomenclature ispirato alla bellezza delle molecole chimiche che hanno fatto la storia della profumeria contemporanea.
Tra le novità assolute presentate al Perfume Showcase, ci saranno anche le fragranze artigianali di Ac’M Design nate dalla creatività di Emanuela Mangili Cozzi Mazzucchelli, designer di complementi di arredo, gioielli e accessori moda, che ha catturato con le note olfattive dei profumi l’anima dei luoghi che porta nel cuore. Una collezione dalla piccola tiratura, impreziosita da gioielli e dettagli personalizzabili come i tappi lignei torniti a mano da maestranze fiorentine.
Espongono inoltre le loro creazioni gli allievi di Smell Atelier che hanno concluso il percorso didattico dedicato a "Il Linguaggio del Profumo" realizzando una collezione dimostrativa di cinque fragranze intitolata “Magiae Naturalis”.


© Smell Festival.

Smell Atelier, come laboratorio di produzione creativa, sarà infine coinvolto nella realizzazione delle fragranze per lo spettacolo teatrale  "Tra gli alberi e i profumi", di e con Angelica Zanardi,  presentato la sera di giovedì 19 maggio presso il Fienile Fluò, luogo incantato tra i calanchi e la natura dei colli bolognesi. I profumi realizzati per l'occasione da Giuseppe Caruso faranno da contrappunto emotivo alla narrazione: un libero girovagare tra storia, leggenda e botanica, tra ricordi e sensazioni, all'ombra di alberi secolari. Perché la Magia altro non è, come scrisse lo stesso Giovanni Battista Della Porta, se non  “contemplazione della natura”.



IL PROGRAMMA COMPLETO DI SMELL FESTIVAL 2016 
SARÀ DISPONIBILE DA METÀ APRILE SUL SITO: www.smellfestival.it


Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, and other stories.... (guest post)

$
0
0



Dear Sirs, a few years ago, during the 2000s, I had a brief stint in the cosmetic industry as a chemist. Although I am not particularly fond of those years, I am nonetheless entertained in knowing all debates about "reformulations", analyzing batch-by-batch, month-by-month, picture-by-picture. 
I especially enjoyed the ones regarding to Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, Dior Homme Parfum, and generically, all Dior perfumes and cosmetics. And when Andre from "Raiders" pointed out another probable reformulation occurring at the beginning of 2015, I decided to write this short note. Why? Because there is basically a very quick way to understand if a "reformulation" happened. 

Actually, all Dior products silently advice you when a "reformulation" occurred: you simply have to check "the Number" written on the box, i.e. the number appearing on the corner of the box referring to the composition of the scent/cosmetic: when this number changes, it means the scent/cosmetic composition consequently changed: so, you know a reformulation occurred.  
Here's a picture describing how to find the Number (Dior Homme Intense)

And here is a box of Dior Homme:




But what is exactly this Number? We need a few steps backwards....  
During year 2003, the European Commission issued the 2003/14/EC Directive, about the mandatory labeling of the "allergens" on the box of all European-marketed scents and cosmetics, to be implemented within two years (i.e. year 2005, at latest). 
Furthermore, one of the rules involved the "order of appearance" of each allergen, which had to be proportionate to its amount. For example: if you read on the box: "eugenol-linalool-citral", it means eugenol is present in a greater concentration than linalool; and linalool is present at a greater concentration than citral, and so on.

Since 2004-2005, Dior wrote this mandatory list on all perfumes, adding the Number: obviously it is a different number for each type of scent (EdT, EdP, Parfum, Cologne, Aftershave, Soaps, Body creams etc, have a different number, since the "composition" is different) 
But when you read a different Number in the same product (for eample, EdT during different years), it means the "composition" inside the bottle changed, and a reformulation occurred. You could see differences in the listing, too. 

Beware: a changing in Number/Formula means the composition changed; but this does NOT automatically mean the "smelling" changed, too: actually it could be possible having a change in the formula, leaving the smell unaltered, and vice versa (a bit unlikely, however...)

Back to the original question, Andre was right: at the end of 2014/ beginning of 2015 a reformulation occurred, and the Number changed, and you can smell the subtle difference.

Please note: this method is suitable for any Dior product. You could apply it on Eau Sauvage, Fahrenheit, Poison, J'adore, etc., and any cosmetic produced after 2005. 
                                                                          (Alberto Converano)

------------
"In my opinion, there was another reformulation at the end of 2014/early in 2015. Dior Homme (DH, EdT) has now a stronger opening, more similar to Dior Homme Intense. On the contrary, Dior Homme Intense (DHI, EdP) seems much more powdery, and the 'lipstick' tone appears more pronounced. Longevity and projection are unaltered. Both still very good in my opinion, but clearly reformulated again."                                (Andre)             

------------------------
And now a few pictures with the Numbers /Formulae (use it as a reference):


Dior Homme EdT
original (2005-2010) : formula 01704/A (or 01792/A)
2010-2014 :  formula 05434/A
2015- current:   formula 08853/A

Dior HOMME, early bottle,
batch 5L01, formula 1704/A

A rare alternate early version, listing Benzophenone
(an UV-rays blocker), formula 01792/A 


DIOR HOMME 
differences between 2008 and 2013

DIOR HOMME
differences between 2014 and 2015


Dior Homme, 0Z06 =   2010, december.
Nr. 05434/A

Dior Homme, 1U02 =   2011, august.
Nr. 05434/A



-----------------------
Dior Homme Intense EdP:
original (2007-2010):  formula 03214/A
2011-2014:  formula 05443/A
2015- current: formula 08666/A

Dior Homme Intense, the first bottle, year 2007
Formula N° 03214/A

Dior Homme Intense, batch 1R02 = 2011, april
Formula N° 05443/A 

Dior Homme Intense , batch 3X01, year 2013
Formula 05443/A


Dior Homme Intense, batch 5W01 = year 2015
formula N° 08666/A









CINESCENT by Gabriela Guidetti: Chanel Nr.5 VS Moulin Rouge (April 2016)

$
0
0





"Je lance ma collection le 5 mai, cinquième mois de l'année, laissons lui le numéro qu'il porte et ce numéro 5 lui portera chance" (Coco Chanel)

Satine - “Christian, I'm a courtesan. I'm paid to make men believe what they want to believe” (from "Moulin Rouge")

When it comes to legends, is always difficult to distinguish between reality and fantasy. And Chanel N°5 is a legend. So much has been spoken and much has been written about this creation, and the only certainty is that Chanel N°5 was a real olfactory revolution. In times when women wore fragrances dedicated to a single flower, the rebel Coco decided that things had to change and asked Ernest Beaux to create a complex perfume with a smell of woman. 




A woman knowing how to combine the elegance with the sensuality of the boudoir. And so, the aldehydes transformed the opulent flowers and notes of amber, musky accord and aromatic woods in the golden drops of Chanel N°5 that in 1921 made his triumphal entry into the world of perfumery.




Approaching this legend is a delicate matter. You have to get closer on tiptoe and remain in silent adoration of its talc notes and its allure that evokes a boundless femininity. If we wanted to put a face to this fragrance we should look for a romantic and seductive female figure, a courtesan of a sweet beauty. As Satine in "Moulin Rouge!", a romantic musical melodrama directed by Baz Luhrmann in 2001. Satine, played by Nicole Kidman, is the star of Moulin Rouge, a place of joy and destruction for young bohemians and wealthy viveurs in the sparkling age of the can-can that animated the atmospheres of Pigalle in Paris at the turn between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Divided between the love for the penniless writer Christian (Ewan McGregor) and the temptation for the richness of the Duke of Monroth (Richard Roxburgh), in the end Satine will indulge in young love's arms, though the cruel fate will take over their romance. The whole film smells of N°5, but if we wanted to find a sequence which the perfume seems to accompany every moment in, it would probably be the one in which Satine appears for the first time. 





The theater is full and the audience is breathless waiting for the favorite star. And here she comes in. She goes down from above like an angel covered with sparkling diamonds. Her skin is white, her lips are red. The wait is over and Satine hovers on the heads of the enraptured audience. The aldehydes realise into the air and amplify the sparkling notes of citrus and neroli. It's a sensual explosion that tickles the senses and has no way out. As a silver rain Satine spreads her fragrant essence around. Top notes expand and illuminate the scene with seductive scented waves that excite heart. 


(VIDEO)


But Chanel N°5 is not a perfume to dissect or split in a traditional pyramid. Because from the moment it lays down on the skin all the notes that compose the jus sprout and mature together. The aldehydes are always there, never go away and amplify all the olfactory nuances. So Satine's allure penetrates deeper and deeper into souls. Duke and Christian's eyes never leave her, bewitched by the splendour of the Moulin Rouge Muse. 




Satine goes down and as soon as his feet touch the ground, a source of opulent flowers gushes out. As fleshy and velvety rose, she indulges in the arms of enthusiastic fans, now at the mercy of her feminine charm. Fantasies of amorous liaison crowd the mind of its two main admirers. Citrus fruits and flowers sink into a vortex of creamy and amber woods heated by aldehydes and turned into unburnt embers. 




Men are on Satine's feet, and she dissolves all their resistance by plunging them into the gripping spiral of her perfume. It's time for a complete surrender. Coco wanted a fragrance for women who make their mark. Sweet and stylish women with, however, a courtesan hidden impalpable cotè. So Beaux's olfactory creation is like Satine: the first time you meet it, you can lose yourself forever inside a caressing maze of alluring sensuality. Until a few years ago Chanel N°5 has been the best-selling perfume in the world, and like it or not it will always remain a touchstone in the history of perfumery. And even if the product currently on the market has been reformulated, Chanel N°5 will be the faithful companion of women all over the world for a long time. 




Chanel N°5 - Chanel, 1921
Eau de Parfum
Nose: Ernest Beaux
Family: Floral aldehyde
Olfactory Pyramid: Chanel N°5 includes notes of bergamot, lemon, neroli, aldehydes, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, amber

Moulin Rouge! - Baz Luhrmann, 2001
Cast: Nicole Kidman (Satine); Ewan McGregor (Christian); John Leguizamo (Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec); Jim Broadbent (Harold Zidler); Richard Roxburgh (Duke of Monroth); Kylie Minogue (the Green Fairy)
Director: Baz Luhrmann
Written by Baz Luhrmann and Craig Pearce
Moulin Rouge! won, amongst others, two Academy Awards, three Golden Globes and three BAFTAs





(italian)     -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Quando si parla di leggende è sempre difficile distinguere tra realtà e fantasia. E Chanel nr 5 è una leggenda. Tanto si è parlato e tanto si è scritto sulla sua creazione, ma l'unica cosa certa è che Chanel nr.5 è stata una vera e propria rivoluzione olfattiva. In tempi in cui le donne indossavano fragranze dedicate a un solo fiore, la ribelle Coco decise che le cose dovevano cambiare e chiese a Ernest Beaux di creare un profumo elaborato che odorasse di donna. Una donna che sapesse coniugare l'eleganza con la sensualità del boudoir. E fu così che le aldeidi trasformarono fiori opulenti e note ambrate, accordi muschiati e legni aromatici nelle gocce dorate di Chanel nr.5 che nel 1921 fece il suo trionfale ingresso nel mondo della profumeria.
Accostarsi a tale leggenda è un operazione delicata. Bisogna avvicinarsi in punta di piedi e restare in silenziosa adorazione delle sue note talcate e del suo allure che evoca una femminilità senza confini. Se volessimo dare un volto a questa fragranza dovremmo cercare una figura femminile romantica e seducente, una cortigiana dalla bellezza soave. Come Satine di Moulin Rouge!, del 2001, melodramma sentimentale raccontato da Baz Luhrman con il linguaggio del musical. Satine, interpretata da Nicole Kidman, è la stella del Moulin Rouge, luogo di gioia e perdizione di giovani bohémienne e facoltosi viveur nella scintillante era del can-can che animava le atmosfere della Pigalle parigina a cavallo del XIX e XX secolo. Divisa tra l'amore per lo squattrinato scrittore Christian (Ewan McGregor) e la tentazione per la ricchezza del duca di Monroth (Richard Roxburgh), alla fine Satine si abbandonerà tra le braccia del giovane amante, anche se il crudele destino avrà il sopravvento sulla loro storia d'amore. Tutto il film profuma di N°5, ma se volessimo trovare una sequenza in cui il profumo sembra accompagnare ogni attimo, probabilmente sarebbe quella in cui appare Satine per la prima volta. Il teatro è pieno e il pubblico è in spasmodica attesa della sua star preferita. Ed ecco che lei entra in scena. Scende dall'alto come un angelo coperto di scintillanti diamanti. La sua pelle è candida, le labbra rosse. L'attesa è finita e Satine si libra sulle teste del pubblico in visibilio. Le aldeidi si liberano nell'aria e amplifica le note scintillanti di agrumi e neroli. E' un esplosione di sensualità che solletica i sensi e non lascia scampo. Come pioggia d'argento Satine sparge la sua essenza profumata intorno. Le note di testa si espandono e illuminano la scena di seducenti onde profumate che eccitano i cuori. Ma Chanel n°5 non è un profumo che si può sezionare o dividere in una piramide tradizionale. Perchè dal momento che si adagia sulla pelle tutte le note che compongono il jus germogliano e maturano insieme. Le aldeidi sono sempre lì, non se ne vanno mai e fanno da amplificatore di tutte le sfumature olfattive. Così l'allure di Satine penetra sempre più profondamente nell'anima. Gli occhi del duca e di Christian non la lasciano un istante, ammaliati dallo splendore della musa del Moulin Rouge. Satine scende e appena il suo piede tocca terra ecco sgorgare una fonte di fiori opulenti. Come rosa carnosa e vellutata si abbandona tra le braccia di ammiratori ormai alla mercè del suo fascino femminile. Fantasie di liaison amorose affollano la mente dei suoi due principali adoratori. Gli agrumi e i fiori affondano in un vortice di legni cremosi e ambrati che le aldeidi accendono e li trasformano in braci incombuste. Gli uomini sono ai piedi di Satine che dissolve ogni loro resistenza tuffandoli nelle avvincenti spirali del suo profumo. Ormai non resta che capitolare. Coco voleva un profumo per donne che lasciassero il segno. Donne dolci ed eleganti che celassero però un impalpabile cotè di cortigiana. Per questo la creazione olfattiva di Beaux è come Satine: la prima volta che la incontri potresti perderti per sempre in carezzevoli meandri di provocante sensualità. Chanel N°5 è stato fino a pochi anni fa il profumo più venduto al mondo e che piaccia o no rimarrà sempre una pietra di paragone nella storia della profumeria. E anche se il prodotto attualmente in commercio è stato riformulato, Chanel N°5 per lungo tempo sarà ancora il fedele compagno di donne di tutto il mondo.

Chanel N°5 – Chanel, 1921
Eau de Parfum
Naso: Ernest Beaux
Famiglia: Aldeide fiorito
Piramide Olfattiva: Chanel N°5 racchiude note di bergamotto, limone, neroli, aldeidi, gelsomino, rosa, mughetto, iris, vetiver, sandalo, vaniglia, ambra

Moulin Rouge! - Baz Luhrmann, 2001
Cast: Nicole Kidman (Satine); Ewan McGregor (Christian); John Leguizamo (Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec); Jim Broadbent (Harold Zidler); Richard Roxburgh (duca di Monroth); Kylie Minogue (the Green Fairy)
Regia: Baz Luhrmann
Soggetto e sceneggiatura: Baz Luhrmann e Craig Pearce
Moulin Rouge! ha vinto, tra gli altri numerosi premi, due Oscar, tre Golden Globes e tre BAFTA



"Perfumes I love", by Luca Turin.

$
0
0

Disclosure:  since we are italians, there could be a little bias in what we follow.... and Luca Turin is not a simple name, but "The Name", since his early, magnificent book "Parfums: le Guide", published during 1992-1994.
It was the book which started all (followed by many other works), and a cornerstone, especially for fragrance lovers with a passionate and "scientific" point-of-view. 
So, we are really glad to read Luca's new "perfumed" blog HERE 


"Bentornato, Professore!!"

perfumesilove.com 

CINESCENT by Gabriela Guidetti: "Barbarella" vs. "Calandre".

$
0
0



"Barbarella" (Roger Vadim, 1968)
VS.
"Calandre" (Paco Rabanne, 1969) 


A perfume should be as imbued with meaning as it is light to wear (Paco Rabanne)

Dildano: Are you typical of Earth women?
Barbarella: I'm about average. 
(from "Barbarella", 1968)


Basque-born and rebel at heart, Paco Rabanne revealed himself as a revolutionary spirit since the beginning of his career in fashion. And despite he wasn't warmly welcomed by his colleagues, as Coco Chanel who called him "the metal-worker of fashion"......
Definition quite appropriate and not in derogatory way at all, for a designer who considers metal one of his raw materials. It was the '60s, people were bubbly and looked for a change. Artists were always searching for new expressions and new worlds, often influenced by futuristic fascination. And one of these artists was Paco Rabanne. 


Metal in his hands became the new armor for women of the Sixties, free females, transgressive and focused on new horizons. One of these warriors from future just arrived under the shape of "Barbarella", a galactic heroine of an eponymous French comic of 1962, signed by Jean-Claude Forest and brought to the screen by Roger Vadim in 1968. 

The movie is an hilarius science fiction story, full of kitsch and design items, eroticism, fashion and grotesque, transforming the movie in a real icon of that age. Barbarella passes through the movie with the sensual innocence of a leading lady ready to fearlessly face every new experience, whether it is osé or dangerous. The main character was played by a young and beautiful Jane Fonda, her perfect body sheathed in corsets and tight-fitting suits with metal, plexiglas, plastic and lamé inserts. It's no coincidence that the film's costumes were signed by Paco Rabanne who as a result of this collaboration began the so-called "Space Age Fashion". 



And it was in those years that he started the olfactory project that in 1969 led to the realisation of his first fragrance, Calandre, created by Michel Hy, who would have later signed a scent often compared to Calandre: YSL's Rive Gauche. The fragrance is a floral chypre gleaming aldehydes, with a heart of metal rose sinking in a dusty and animalic base of musks and woods. Calandre is a scent of extraordinary personality, a mirror for the women in '60s and '70s. A combination of femininity and audacity that seems a scented and preformed shell wrapped Barbarella's sensual forms embedded in lurex. 




It seems obvious to find a liaison between Barbarella and Calandre: the costumes designed by Paco Rabanne look like the material representation of the fragrance. The top notes start with a sparkling explosion of green tinged aldehydes. The nose is tickled by this cold and citrus energy.  

Senses are awakened to admire the chromatic facets of Barbarella's green costume. Plastic reflects lightrays and covers the galactic heroine's body as a bright mosaic. The aldehydes surround her and dance, amplifying even the smaller emerald shade. Then they get cool down an opulent rose, while orris dusts the whiteness of jasmine and lily of the valley. 

The heart of the fragrance is a metal flower that gives pure sensuality. The jus envelopes Barbarella's body like a chain mail to protect the voluptuous splendour of the white jumpsuit, tight as a second skin.

The olfactory journey continues in a warmhole of fragrant mosses. At this step, the heart warms and aldehydes light creamy woods. Basenotes bring out the intensity of the dark and velvet side of the perfume that covers Jane Fonda's forms in a blaze of seductive transparencies.

The fragrance merges with the skin and dresses her as a comfortable cloth. Barbarella -a perfect synthesis of all Earth women- is ready for embarking one more new trip to new galaxies, leaving behind a scent of sidereal flowers and sensuous musks. Calandre will go with her in this back to the future, elegant and sensual olfactory journey, which has maintained the iconic appeal of those revolutionary 60's to the present day. 




Calandre - Paco Rabanne 1969
Nose: Michel Hy
Family: Floral Aldehyde / Chypre 
Olfactory Pyramid: Calandre includes notes of bergamot, aldehydes, green notes, orris, jasmine, geranium, rose, lily of the valley, animal musk, oakmoss, amber, vetiver


Barbarella - Roger Vadim, 1968
Cast: Jane Fonda (Barbarella); John Phillip Law (Pygar); Anita Pallenberg (The Great Tyrant); Marcel Marceau (Professor Ping); Ugo Tognazzi (Mark Hand); David Hemmings (Dildano)
Director: Roger Vadim
From comic Barbarella by Jean-Claude Forest
Costumes: Paco Rabanne





--(italian)--------------------------------------------------------------


Calandre (Paco Rabanne, 1969) 
vs.
Barbarella (Roger Vadim, 1968)


A perfume should be as imbued with meaning as it is light to wear (Paco Rabanne)

Dildano: Are you typical of Earth women?
Barbarella: I'm about average. 
(from Barbarella, 1968)

Basco di natali e ribelle di animo Paco Rabanne mostrò un spirito rivoluzionario fin dagli inizi della sua carriera nella moda. L'accoglienza da parte dei suoi colleghi non fu certamente delle migliori tanto da far storcere il naso alla stessa Coco Chanel che lo definì “il metallurgico della moda”. Definizione alquanto appropriato e non in senso dispregiativo, per uno stilista che fece del metallo una delle sue materie prime. Erano gli anni '60, la società era in fermento e anelava a un cambiamento. Gli artisti erano alla continua ricerca di nuovi modi e mondi di espressione, spesso influenzati dal fascino del futuribile. E uno di questi artisti fu Paco Rabanne.


 Il metallo tra le sue mani divenne la nuova armatura delle donne degli anni sessanta, femmine libere, trasgressive e proiettate verso nuovi orizzonti. Proprio una di queste guerriere del futuro ha le sembianze di Barbarella, eroina galattica dell'omonimo fumetto francese del 1962, firmato da Jean-Claude Forest e portato sullo schermo da Roger Vadim nel 1968. 

Il film è una storia di fantascienza intrisa di comicità ed elementi kitch, design ed erotismo, fashion e grotesque, tanto da trasformare l'intera opera in un vero e proprio icona del periodo. Barbarella attraversa la pellicola con la sensualissima ingenuità di un'eroina pronta ad affrontare senza alcun timore ogni nuova esperienza, osé o pericolosa che sia. La protagonista era interpretata da una giovane e bellissima Jane Fonda, dal corpo perfetto inguainato in corpetti e tute aderentissime con inserti di metallo e plexiglas, plastica e lamè. Non a caso i costumi del film portavano la firma di Paco Rabanne che grazie a questa collaborazione diede inizio alla cosiddetta “moda spaziale”. 


E fu proprio in quegli anni che lo stilista diede vita al progetto olfattivo che nel 1969 portò alla realizzazione del suo primo profumo, Calandre, creato da quel Michel Hy che l'anno successivo avrebbe firmato un profumo più volte accostato a Calandre, Rive Gauche di YSL. La fragranza è un chypre floreale scintillante di aldeidi, dal cuore di rosa metallica che affonda in un fondo polveroso e animalico di muschi e legni. Calandre è un profumo di straordinaria personalità, specchio delle donne degli anni sessanta/settanta. Un insieme di femminilità e di sfrontatezza che sembra fasciare come un guscio profumato e preformato le sensuali forme annegate nel lurex di Barbarella. 


Trovare una liaison tra Barbarella e Calandre è quasi ovvio: gli abiti di scena firmati da Paco Rabanne sembrano la rappresentazione materica della fragranza. Le note di testa si aprono con una esplosione scintillante di aldeidi dalle venature verdi. Il naso viene solleticato da questa energia fredda e agrumata. 
I sensi si risvegliano e ammirano le sfaccettature cromatiche del costume verde di Barbarella. Plastica che riflette ogni raggio di luce e come un mosaico luminoso ricopre il corpo dell'eroina galattica. Le aldeidi le danzano intorno, amplificando anche il più piccolo riverbero smeraldino. Poi scendono per raffreddare una rosa opulenta, mentre l'iris impolvera il candore del gelsomino e del mughetto. 
Il cuore della fragranza è un fiore metallico che sprigiona pura sensualità. Il jus inguaina il corpo di Barbarella come una cotta di maglia di ferro a protezione dello splendore voluttuoso della tuta bianca aderente come una seconda pelle.
Il viaggio olfattivo prosegue in un warmhole di muschi fragranti. In questo passaggio il cuore si scalda e le aldeidi accendono legni cremosi. Le note di fondo fanno emergere l'intensità del lato oscuro e vellutato del profumo che avvolge le forme della nostra eroina in un tripudio di seduttive trasparenze.  
La fragranza si fonde alla pelle e la veste come un tessuto accogliente. Barbarella, sintesi ideale di ogni donna terrestre, è pronta per ripartire verso nuove galassie, lasciandosi alle spalle un scia di fiori siderali e muschi conturbanti. Calandre l'accompagnerà in questo elegante e sensuale viaggio olfattivo “back to the future”, che ha mantenuto intatto tutto il fascino iconico dei rivoluzionari anni sessanta fino ai giorni nostri. 

Calandre – Paco Rabanne 1969
Eau de Parfum
Naso: Michel Hy
Famiglia: Aldeico/Chypre floreale
Piramide Olfattiva: Calandre racchiude note di bergamotto, aldeidi, note verdi, radice di iris, gelsomino, geranio, rosa, mughetto, muschio animale, muschio di quercia, ambra, vetiver

Barbarella – Roger Vadim, 1968
Cast: Jane Fonda (Barbarella); John Phillip Law (Pygar); Anita Pallenberg (The Great Tyrant); Marcel Marceau (Professor Ping); Ugo Tognazzi (Mark Hand); David Hemmings (Dildano)
Regia: Roger Vadim
Tratto dal fumetto Barbarella di Jean-Claude Forest
Costumi: Paco Rabanne



SMELL FESTIVAL 2016: a Diary by Gabriela Guidetti.

$
0
0



(ALL PICTURES by SMELL FESTIVAL)


Magiae Naturae Smell festival 2016, Bologna 21/22 maggio.

Aggiornaremo degli odori, e de'profumi dopo le distillazioni, arte conosciuta, e sua parente, perche da quelle ricerca i suoi odori, e li compone insieme, e fà i profumi, accioche di quà, e di là soavissimamente spiri gli odori suoi 
(tratto da Della Magia Naturale di Gio.Battista della Porta. Libro Undecimo - Il qual da ogni parte spira soavissimi odori – Proemio. Traduzione da latino in volgare)

Parlare di due giorni intensissimi trascorsi avvolta da centinaia di magici odori, non è impresa facile. Io ho purtroppo vissuto solo una parte di questa splendida festa dell'olfatto che è Smell Festival che è iniziata il 18 e si è conclusa il 22 maggio, perciò vi racconterò del fine settimana che mi ha visto interagire con aromi preziosi e magnifiche persone tra le mura antiche e affascinanti del Museo internazionale e biblioteca della Musica nel cuore storico e pulsante della dotta Bologna.
Dovrò quindi lasciare alla vostra curiosità la ricerca di informazioni sugli altri odorosi momenti che hanno preso vita nei giorni precedenti tra riscoperte di antiche acque come l'acqua di Felsina, la fragranza antico di Bologna, degustazioni di vini, cene musicali e profumate, alchimie di rosa, la scoperta dell'Henne e showcase dedicati alla profumeria artistica e alle creazioni olfattive realizzate da cinque studenti del corso di profumo di Smell Atelier. Tutte queste notizie potete trovarle direttamente sul sito di www.smellfestival.it .





Giorno 1
La mia avventura è iniziata il sabato mattina con la partecipazione ad un lungo e istruttivo workshop sulla reinterpretazione dell'Iris e tenuto da un giovane e brillante naso autodidatta spagnolo Oliver Valverde che nel 2009 ha fondato il suo brand, Oliver & Co. Oliver è un creativo sperimentale. Nelle sue fragranze non esiste una piramide olfattiva classica. Oliver mischia, aggiunge, compone e annusa, come un futuribile alchimista che riesce a plasmare incontri insoliti per risultati sorprendenti. Il progetto del workshop era quello di aggiungere all'iris il colore luminoso delle note tropicali, per dare vita a una creatura apparentemente contraddittoria, ma ricca di sfumature nuove per il naso. Armati di pipette e campioni delle più svariate essenze, sia naturali che sintetiche noi partecipanti abbiamo tentato di costruire la nostra versione di iris tropicale seguendo i consigli del nostro maestro d'eccezione. Ci siamo riusciti? Ai posteri l'ardua sentenza, ma indipendentemente dal risultato, il workshop è stata un'importante occasione per approfondire la mia conoscenza delle note olfattive.


Al termine di questo primo appuntamento e prima della ripresa pomeridiana ho avuto il tempo di visitare lo spazio Olfattiva, un'area di Smell tutta dedicata all'azienda sorta circa quindici anni fa come produttrice di diffusori di oli essenziali e che in seguito si è occupata di profumeria botanica. Barbara Pozzi e Massimo Moretti, fondatori di Olfattiva hanno trasformato il loro spazio all'interno di Smell Festival in un vero e proprio laboratorio per l'estrazione dei preziosi oli essenziali. Durante i giorni dell'evento hanno presentato al pubblico il loro progetto, la loro idea di profumeria botanica e la loro severa selezione della materia prima purissima, incontaminata e coltivata con metodi biologici e tecniche di estrazione legate a una tradizione che trova le sue radici nel mondo armonioso della filosofia ayurvedica. Il prodotto finale è un profumo che sintetizza tutte le proprietà prodigiose e aromaterapiche delle piante per risollevare anima, cuore e spirito in chi lo annusa. Olfattiva, oltre alla loro linea tradizionale ha presentato a Smell Festival I Preziosi, una linea nuova realizzata con oli essenziali pregiati.



Nel pomeriggio si sono riaperte le attività con il secondo workshop che riguardava le piante aromatiche in profumeria ed era tenuto da Beatrice Baccon, giovane e esperta erborista. Durante la lezione i partecipanti hanno potuto annusare diverse mouillettes imbevute di oli essenziali tratti da piante aromatiche usate soprattutto in cucina, ma molto apprezzate anche in profumeria. E' stato sorprendente poter distinguere e apprezzare l'immortelle, la salvia officinale e la salvia sclarea, il basilico e la menta piperita, imparandone le proprietà erboristiche e il loro utilizzo come note di testa o di fondo nelle piramidi olfattive.


In contemporanea nella sala eventi si è svolto l'incontro con Giovanni Rancè, CEO e Direttore creativo di Rancè, Maison fondata a Grasse nel 1795 e da allora sempre protagonista del panorama profumiero francese grazie alla capacità di rinnovamento pur nel rispetto della tradizione. A Smell Festival Giovanni Rancè ha proposto due nuovi jus: HÉROÏQUE, un legnoso aromatico da uomo e HORTENSE, un fiorito orientale da donna.


Il pomeriggio è stato in seguito animato dalla lezione tenuta da Roland Salesse, ricercatore presso l'INRA di Parigi. Oggetto dell'incontro è stata la natura e la fisiologia dell'olfatto di cui Salesse ha parlato nel suo saggio “Le Spectateur olfactive”, sottolineando diversi aspetti della sfera sensoriale, tra cui l'applicazione di questi studi nell'ambito artistico citando alcuni esperimenti come, per esempio, Green Aria: a scent opera, performance teatrale ideata da Stewart Metthew con la collaborazione del naso Christophe Laudamiel, tenutasi a NYC a Bilbao e che prevede l'uso di un organo dei profumi collegato ai posti degli spettatori e costituito da 33 cartucce di odori attivati in combinazione con la musica. Un altro esperimento è Dating di James Auger e Jimmy Loizeau, un progetto dove gli odori di alcune coppie vengono raccolti in punti strategici e fatti annusare al rispettivo potenziale partner. O, solo per citarne alcuni, il teatro olfattivo di Violaine de Carnè che nel 2001 ha fondato il gruppo teatrale Le Tir et la Lyre che utilizza gli odori come mezzo espressivo.

La giornata è continuata con l'incontro con Oliver Valverde, che avevo già avuto l'opportunità di incontrare durante il workshop del mattino. Oliver anche in questa occasione ha ribadito la sua concezione libera e rivoluzionaria di profumo, senza piramide olfattiva e guidata solo dalla sua sensibilità e istintività. Nell'occasione ha fatto conoscere al pubblico alcune delle sue creazioni tra cui Nebula 2, ispirata alla Nebula Carina, Resina e M.o.u.s.s.e, la sua prima composizione.


Per finire il pubblico ha potuto incontrare Sileno Cheloni, il fondatore di AquaFlor Firenze. Artista e design Sileno Cheloni nel 2007 incontra un maestro Sufi che lo guida verso la visione metafisica della dottrina, esperienza che lo porterà in seguito a studiare le connessioni tra la dimensione olfattiva e l'espressione alchemica e magica dello spirito. Così nel 2009 nasce AquaFlor, casa profumiera che realizza profumi a proprio marchio e su misura, composti su misura per coloro che desiderino trovare in una fragranza il proprio benessere interiore e spirituale. Sileno Cheloni, squisitamente accompagnato dal suo responsabile delle comunicazioni Antonio Artese al piano, ha chiuso l'intenso pomeriggio trascinando la platea nella sfera profonda e meditativa delle sue ultime creature profumate: Ex-Tasi per la persona e Magia per la casa.



Giorno 2
La mattina di domenica 22 si è aperta con un incontro dedicato al Parco della Reggia di Caserta, con la presenza di Addolorata Ines Perduto e Gerardo Pasquale Iodice, staff tecnico della struttura. La proiezione di immagini del Giardino inglese si è trasformata in una vera e propria esperienza olfattiva grazie a campioni di flora provenienti dal parco e che ogni partecipante poteva toccare e annusare per coglierne ogni singola sfumatura odorosa. In certi momenti sembrava proprio di camminare tra le ombre della meravigliosa architettura naturale che fa da corona a uno dei complessi più importanti e imponenti d'Italia. L'incontro era inoltre una introduzione interattiva all'evento che porterà Smell Festival ad approdare alla Reggia per una visita guidata in giugno.


Di seguito il pubblico ha potuto assistere alla presentazione dell'altro grande evento che coinvolgerà Smell Festival e cioè la prima edizione estiva che si terrà dal 5 al 10 agosto a Carovigno e nell'oasi naturalistica di Torre Guaceto, perle incastonate nell'incantevole territorio dell'Alto Salento pugliese. All'incontro erano presenti Pietro Laghezza, assessore alla cultura del comune di Carovigno e la direttrice artistica di Smell Festival, Francesca Faruolo, che ha dato qualche profumata e gustosa anticipazione di cosa avverrà durante la manifestazione. Per ogni aggiornamento vi consigliamo di fare riferimento al sito http://www.smellfestival.it/  


Dopo la consueta pausa per uno spuntino veloce, il pomeriggio si è aperto con il mio terzo interessantissimo workshop condotto dal profumiere Luigi Cristiano sulla preparazione del latte virginale. A base di benzoino, oleoresina conosciuta sin dai tempi antichi sia in occidente che in oriente per le sue proprietà aromatiche e antisettiche, il latte virginale fece la sua prima comparsa nella Francia del Seicento sotto l'influsso della profumeria italiana. Il prezioso latte virginale era alla base delle cure di bellezza delle donne perché contribuiva a dare al viso il candore e la levigatezza che gli usi e i costumi del tempo esigevano. Il successo del latte virginale fu tale da trasformarlo in compagno fedele per la cura della pelle di signore eleganti fino al secolo scorso. Nel corso del workshop noi partecipanti abbiamo potuto sperimentare la realizzazione di questo belletto di altri tempi utilizzando la ricetta del latte virginale semplice, costituito da acqua di rose, tintura di benzoino, glicerina e soluzione di borace. Dopo aver dosato la giusta quantità secondo le istruzioni del maestro e aver aggiunto alcune gocce di alcolati di iris, benzoino, limone e di una tintura di dolcissime fave di tonka per aromatizzare la mistura, nel momento in cui tutti gli ingredienti sono stati mischiati insieme, quasi come un trucco di magia, ecco che ne è scaturito un liquido lattiginoso e soave, già pronto per rendere luminosa e liscia la pelle secondo una tradizione del tempo che. 



Il pomeriggio è continuato con la presentazione di Romanza, creazione di Masque Fragranze. E proprio i direttori artistici della giovane casa profumiera, Alessandro Brun e Riccardo Tedeschi, hanno guidato il pubblico fin dentro l'anima della fragranza, svelandone il progetto e le note olfattive principali. Romanza è un omaggio al narciso e all'epoca vittoriana, dove lo stile dandy raffinato e anticonformista aveva la sua massima espressione nella figura di Oscar Wilde e del suo Dorian Grey. Alessandro e Riccardo hanno lasciato nelle mani del giovane e promettente naso Cristiano Canali la scrittura di questo loro racconto e Cristiano ha raccolto la sfida, dipanando essenze squisite che durante l'incontro abbiamo potuto rivivere grazie alla descrizione a voce e odorosa: artemisia, angelica, mandarino, neroli, foglie di violetta, assoluta di gelsomino del marocco, vetiver di haiti, mirra e un'assoluta di narciso selvatico, narcotico e vellutato che ha introdotto al gran finale con lo svelamento di Romanza e del suo dry down decadente ed emozionante.



Il tempo purtroppo è passato veloce e ben presto ci ha atteso l'ultimo appuntamento del fitto week end: un incontro curioso e inaspettato con Michel Partuche, aka Dr. Mike, un musicista che è riuscito a far vibrare non solo le corde di metallo della sua chitarra Gibson, ma anche le corde olfattive nascoste in pozioni odorose che fanno parte della sua collezione Room 1015. Il nome non è stato scelto a caso, ma è un omaggio alla stanza dell'Hyatt Hotel di Los Angeles, tappa di alcune band tra le più famose degli anni d'oro del rock, stanza famosa per essere sistematicamente distrutta dalle intemperanze degli illustri ospiti. Michel, che ha alle spalle una tradizione familiare e personale di farmacista ha saputo miscelare musica e note profumate per creare quattro profumi: Electric Wood dedicata alla sua prima chitarra, Power Ballad, ispirata al periodo degli anni del liceo, Blomma Cult, un tuffo nell'epoca hippie e Atramental, dal sentore dell'inchiostro per tatuaggi. A ogni fragranza corrisponde un brano originale che è possibile ascoltare sul sito web di Room 1015 e che Michel a proposto ai partecipanti in versione sample durante l'illustrazione di ogni jus. 



Con le ultime note della chitarra di Michel si è chiuso Smell Festival. Occorrerebbero fiumi di parole per descrivere le emozioni, gli odori, le suggestioni che ho vissuto. Mi consolo quindi pensando che fra un anno sarò ancora qui a descrivere un altro week end profumatissimo per la prossima edizione di Small Festival a Bologna.
E un grazie speciale a Francesca Faruolo e a tutti coloro che hanno reso piacevolissimo ogni attimo trascorso insieme. Intanto arrivederci a Smell Festival Estate! 

Siti web:
Smell Festival www.smellfestival.it 
Oliver & Co. - Perfumes  http://www.oliverandcoperfumes.com/
Olfattiva http://www.olfattiva.it/
Rancè http://www.rance1795.com/
AquaFlor http://www.florenceparfum.it/
Reggia di Caserta http://www.reggiadicaserta.beniculturali.it/
Comune di Carovigno http://www.comune.carovigno.br.it/
Masque http://www.masquemilano.com/
Room 1015 http://room1015.com/
Essenses (distributore di Oliver & Co e Room 1015) http://www.essenses.it/


--------(english)------------------------------------------------------------

(ALL PICTURES by SMELL FESTIVAL)


Magiae Naturae Smell Festival 2016, Bologna, May 21-22  

Aggiornaremo degli odori, e de'profumi dopo le distillazioni, arte conosciuta, e sua parente, perche da quelle ricerca i suoi odori, e li compone insieme, e fà i profumi, accioche di quà, e di là soavissimamente spiri gli odori suoi (from Della Magia Naturaledi Gio.Battista della Porta. Libro Undecimo - Il qual da ogni parte spira soavissimi odori – Proemio. 
Translation from latin to vulgar italian)

It's is not easy to talk about two intense days spent wrapped by hundreds of magical smells. I have unfortunately attented only a part of this wonderful celebration of smell which started on 18th and ended on 22nd of May, so I'll tell you the weekend in which I interacted with precious aromas and wonderful people among the ancient and fascinating walls of Museo internazionale e biblioteca della Musica in the historical and beating heart of “Dotta” Bologna.
Then I'll have to leave to your curiosity to find informations about other odorous moments that have come to life in the days before: rediscoveries of ancient water as Acqua di Felsina, the vintage fragrance of Bologna, wine tasting, music and scented dinners, meetings about alchemy roses or  hennè and showcase dedicated to the discovery of artistic perfumery and olfactory creations made by five students of the Smell Atelier. You can find all these news on the website www.smellfestival.it.





day 1

My adventure began on Saturday morning with the participation to an informative workshops on the reinterpretation of iris, held by a brilliant young self-taught Spanish nose, Oliver Valverde who in 2009 founded his own brand, Oliver & Co. Oliver is an avant-garde creative. In his perfumes you don't find a classic olfactory pyramid. Oliver mixes up, adds, composes and smells as a futuristic alchemist who shapes unusual encounters for amazing results. The workshop project was to add iris the bright color of tropical notes to give life to a seemingly contradictory creature, but full of new nuances to the nose. Armed with pipettes and samples of various essences, both natural and synthetic, we have tried to realize our tropical iris version by following the suggestions of our exceptional teacher. We succeeded? We'll let the historians judge, but whatever the result, the workshop has been for me a very important opportunity to learn more about the olfactory notes. 


At the end of this first meeting I had time to visit Spazio Olfattiva, an area of Smell all dedicated to the company founded about fifteen years ago as a producer of essential oils diffusers and which later engaged to botanical perfumery. Barbara Pozzi and Massimo Moretti, founders of Olfattiva have transformed their space within Smell Festival in a real laboratory for the extraction of precious essential oils. During the event they presented to the public their project, their idea of botanical perfumery and their carefully selection of the raw materials, pure, uncontaminated and grown with organic methods and extraction techniques linked to a tradition that has its roots in harmonious world of Ayurvedic philosophy. The final product is a perfume which summarizes all the miraculous properties of the plants and aromatherapy to uplift soul, heart and spirit. Furthermore Olfattiva has presented at Smell Festival I Preziosi, a new line made with precious essential oils.  



In the afternoon the activities were opened by the second workshop concerned the aromatic plants in perfumery and held by Beatrice Baccon, young and expert herbalist. During the lesson the participants sniffed different mouillettes soaked in essential oils derived from aromatic plants used especially for cooking, but also highly appreciated in perfumery. It was amazing to distinguish and appreciate the immortelle, the officinalis sage and the clary sage, the basil and the peppermint, learning their herbal properties and their usage in the olfactory pyramid. 


Taking place at the same time, at Event Room was a meeting with Giovanni Rancè, CEO and Creative Director of Rancè, Maison founded in Grasse in 1795 and since then a leader of the French perfumery scene thanks to the capacity for renewal in respect of tradition. At Smell Festival Giovanni Rancè proposed two new jus: Heroique, a men's aromatic woody and HORTENSE, a women's floral oriental. 


Later in the afternoon there was a lecture given by Roland Salesse, researcher at INRA in Paris. Subject of the meeting was the nature and physiology of smell Salesse has spoke in his book Le spectateur olfactive. He has emphasized different aspects of the sensory realm, including the application of these studies in artistic context as, for example, Green Air: a scent work, theater performance conceived by Stewart Metthew with the collaboration of the nose Christophe Laudamiel, held in NYC in Bilbao using a scent organ connected to the seats and consisting of 33 cartridges of odors activated in combination with the music. Another experiment is Dating by James Auger and Jimmy Loizeau, a project where the smells of some couples are collected at strategic points and sniffed by their potential partners. Or the olfactory theater of Violaine de Carne who in 2001 founded the group Le Tir et la Lyre using smells as an expressive medium. 

The day continued with the encounter with Oliver Valverde, I had already the opportunity to meet during the morning workshop. He reiterated its free and revolutionary conception of perfume, without olfactory pyramid and created only by his sensitivity and instinct. On this occasion he introduced the public to some of his creations including Nebula 2, inspired by the Carina Nebula, Resin and M.o.u.s.s.e, his first composition. 


The last appointment has been with Sileno Cheloni, the founder of Aquaflor Florence. Artist and designer, in 2007 he met a Sufi Master who guides him toward the metaphysical vision of doctrine, experience which make him to study the connections between the olfactory dimension and the alchemical and magical expression of the soul. And so in 2009 Aquaflor was born, a perfume house that produces its own brand perfumes and bespoke, tailor made for those who wish to find into a fragrance their inner and spiritual well-being. Sileno Cheloni, exquisitely accompanied at piano by his communications director Antonio Artese, closed the intense afternoon dragging the audience into the deep and meditative sphere of his latest fragrant creatures: Ex-Tasi for the person and Magia for home.



day 2

The morning of Sunday 22 opened with a meeting dedicated to the Royal Palace of Caserta (Reggia di Caserta), with the presence of Addolorata Ines Perduto and Gerardo Pasquale Iodice, structure technical staff. The showing of images of the English Garden has become a realistic olfactory experience through to flora samples that each participant could touch and smell to reap every fragrant nuance. At times it seemed to walk in the shadows of the beautiful natural architecture that crowns one of the most important and impressive historic complex in Italy. The meeting was also an interactive introduction to the event that will bring Smell Festival to land at the Royal Palace for a guided tour on June. 


Below the public attended the presentation of the great event that will involve Smell Festival: the first Summer Edition which will take place from August 5th to 10th in Carovigno and the naturalistic oasis of Torre Guaceto, pearls set in the enchanting land of Alto Salento area in Puglia, (Southern Italy). The meeting has been guided by Pietro Laghezza, Arts and Culture Councillor for  the Municipality of Carovigno and by the Artistic Director of the Smell Festival, Francesca Faruolo, who gave some fragrant and delicious anticipations of what will happen during the event. For  updates I recommend that you refer to the site http://www.smellfestival.it/ 


After the usual snack break, the afternoon began with my third workshop conducted by perfumer Luigi Cristiano on the preparation of virginal milk.  Based on benzoin, oleoresin known since ancient times both in the West in the East for its aromatic and antiseptic properties, the virginal milk made its first appearance in the seventeenth century in France under the influence of Italian perfumery. The precious virginal milk was at the base of women's beauty care because it helped to give the face the whiteness and smoothness that ancient customs demanded. The success of the virginal milk was enough to turn it into a faithful companion for skincare of the elegant ladies until the last century. During the workshop we experienced the realization of this vintage rouge by trying  the simple virginal milk recipe, consisting of rose water, tincture of benzoin, glycerine and solution of borax. After dosing the right amount according to the instructions of the master and adding a few drops of iris, benzoin, lemon alcoholates and a tincture of sweet tonka beans to flavor the blend, at a time when all the ingredients were mixed together, almost like magic trick, that was a milky and sweet liquid, ready to make bright and smooth the skin according to an ancestral tradition. 



The activities of the afternoon continued with the presentation of Romanza, a perfume created by Masque Fragrances. And the artistic directors of the young maison, Alessandro Brun and Richard Tedeschi, have guided the audience right into the soul of the fragrance, revealing the project and the main olfactory notes. Romanza is a tribute to narcissus and to the Victorian era, when chic and unconventional dandy style had its maximum expression in the figure of Oscar Wilde and his Dorian Grey. Alessandro and Riccardo entrusted to the young and promising nose Cristiano Canali the writing of this story and he took up the challenge, unraveling exquisite essences we lived again thanks to oral and odorous description: artemisia, angelica, tangerine, neroli, violet leaves, jasmine absolute of morocco, Haitian vetiver, myrrh and wild narcissus absolute, narcotic and velvety, which introduced the grand finale with the unveiling of Romanza and its decadent and exciting dry down. 



Time went too fast, and soon we had the last round of the packed weekend: a curious and unexpected encounter with Michel Partuche, aka Dr. Mike, a musician who has managed to vibrate not only the metal strings of his Gibson guitar, but also the olfactory strings hidden into smelled potions that compose the Room 1015 collection. This name was not chosen at random, but it is a tribute to the Hyatt Hotel room in Los Angeles, a stop-over of some of the most famous rock bands  that systematically destroyed the room by their excesses. Michel, who has behind him a farmacist personal and family tradition has been able to mix music and perfumed notes to create four scents: Electric Wood, dedicated to his first guitar; Power Ballad, inspired by the period of the high school years; Blomma Cult, a dip in hippie days; Atramental with a hint of tattoo ink. To each fragrance corresponds an original song which can be heard on the Room 1015 website and which Michel proposed to the audience in the sample version during the illustration of each jus. 



With the last notes of Michel's guitar Smell Festival closed. It would take many words to describe the emotions, the scents, the suggestions that I have experienced. I take confort in thinking that in a year I will still be here to describe another fragrant weekend for the next edition of the Small Festival in Bologna
And special thanks to Francesca Faruolo and to all those who have made pleasant every moment spent together. See you soon on Smell Festival Summer Edition! 



Website:
Smell Festival www.smellfestival.it
Oliver & Co. - Perfumes  http://www.oliverandcoperfumes.com/
Essenses (Italian distributor for Oliver & Co and Room 1015) http://www.essenses.it/




Cinescent: Rubj VS. Irma la Douce (by Gabriela Guidetti)

$
0
0

Rubj (Vero.Profumo, 2007) 
Irma la Douce (Billy Wilder, 1963)


Nestor: Pardon me, do you have a licence?
Irma (walking her dog): A licence? No.
Nestor: It's a violation of ordinance No. 56
Irma: Oh, usually they let us get away with it. 
Nestor: Not me. And according to the law, you're supposed to keep it on a leash. 
Irma: On a leash?
(from Irma la Douce)

If there is a director that challenged common morality during his age, that was Billy Wilder, the master who directed movies imbued with biting humour, disregarding any rule or convention. 

He told about women with a pure heart scented of sensuality, and he gave us unforgettable sensitive and only apparent fragile female figures. As Irma, the main female character of the 1963 movie Irma la Douce, played by a radiant Shirley MacLaine. Irma is a prostitute at Pigalle, the "red light district" in Paris. 


One day she meets Nestor (Jack Lemmon), an honest and hardworking cop but disgraced for having done his job too diligently. The two fall in love and Nestor, discarded his uniform, becomes Irma's pimp, who is happy to work for both of them. Hilarious masquerade, comedy of errors in which anything is not what it seems, in Irma la Douce Wilder makes a joke of corruption and prudery with the light touch of two lovers who defy all hypocrisy to crown their romantic dream. 

Irma has the boldness of a consummate professional combined with ingenuous wonder of a beautiful soul. But what perfume would be Irma? A scent that could only come from the nose of the lady who tells original and different stories through her creations: Vero Kern.

And the fragrance was called "Rubj" an realised in 2007 for Vero.Profumo. As all other Vero's scents, also Rubj doesn't have a real olfactory pyramid, because all it notes evolve together in a harmonious polychrome accord. The exquisite brightness of orange blossom embraces the voluptuousness of jasmine in a pas de deux that melds innocence and femininity. 
The fragrance wraps the skin in a luminous allure that slowly grows into deeper tones, aroused by refined and animalic musk notes. The result is a warm and enveloping jus with a soft and powdered dry down. Irma is candid and generous, embraces and comforts even if defending his freedom to choose whom to love and what work to do. So Rubj is cozy and soothing, glides on the skin with the creamy taste of a forbidden fruit. The liaison between Irma and Rubj is all in one picture. 

Irma looks at the camera. A smile makes her eyes shine, a smile that smells of naivete and naughtiness, seduction and irony. She's a bud languidly unfolding and suddenly sparkling with a disorienting spring that tickles nose and fires up. The tender sweetness of Morocco orange blossom is wired by the pungent notes of cumin, tempting as the light that shines in Irma's eyes. Her white skin is wrapped in green lingerie that contrasts with brown hair and red lips. Everything smells like opulent femininity, like a fragrant Egyptian jasmine blossom placed on its green receptacle. The powerful floral note is the narcotic that dissolves the scent in the mellifluous turns of an insinuating seduction with no longer censurship. Irma is staying on a bed, waiting for a client or, maybe, her lover. An image that calls to mind rumpled sheets and messed love nest, sweaty skin and satisfied smiles. The warm and animalic musk welcomes the white flowers and then inflames them in a powdered and deeply sensual base. 


Irma is the same thing: a perfect balance of sensitivity and impertinence. She is a flaming soul that lives by selling her love for a fee and equally give passionately her heart to the man she loves. 

This duality is the same we find in Rubj, a corolla of velvet and pristine petals soaked in carnal abandon. The fragrance created by Vero Kern has got the inextinguishable fascination of classic fragrances that intrigued without parsimony as the charming smile of Irma La Douce. 





Rubj – Vero.Profumo 2007
Nose: Vero Kern
Family: Oriental Floral
Olfactory Pyramid: Rubj includes notes of Morocco orange blossom, cumin, Egyptian jasmine, musk. 
Website http://www.veroprofumo.com/
For more informations about Vero Kern here is our interview 






Irma la Douce – Billy Wilder, 1963
Cast: Shirley MacLaine (Irma); Jack Lemmon (Nestor Patou/Lord X); Lou Jacobi (Moustache); Grace Lee Whitney (Kiki); Joan Shawlee (Annie)
Director: Billy Wilder
From musical Irma la douce (1956) by Marguerite Monnot and Alexandre Breffort.
Awards: Irma la Douce in 1964 won an Oscar (best music André Previn), a Golden Globe (Shirley MacLaine) and a David di Donatello (Shirley MacLaine)



-----(italian)----------------------------------------------------


Nestor: Pardon me, do you have a licence?
Irma (walking her dog): A licence? No.
Nestor: It's a violation of ordinance No. 56
Irma: Oh, usually they let us get away with it. 
Nestor: Not me. And according to the law, you're supposed to keep it on a leash. 
Irma: On a leash?
(from Irma la Douce) 


Se esiste un regista di capolavori che sfidavano la morale del tempo, quello è stato Billy Wilder, il maestro del cinema che ha diretto film pregni di umorismo graffiante infischiandosene di ogni regola o convenzione. Narratore di donne dal cuore candido profumato di sensualità, ci ha regalato indimenticabili figure femminili sensibili e solo apparentemente fragili. Come Irma, la protagonista del film Irma la Dolce del 1963 e interpretata da una smagliante Shirley McLaine. Irma è una prostituta di Pigalle, il quartiere “a luci rosse” di Parigi. 

Un giorno incontra Nestor (Jack Lemmon), un poliziotto onesto e ligio al suo dovere che però cade in disgrazia per avere svolto troppo bene il suo lavoro. I due si innamorano e Nestor, abbandonate le vesti di gendarme, diventa il protettore di Irma, che è ben felice di lavorare per tutti e due. Esilarante masquerade, commedia degli equivoci in cui non tutto è come appare, in Irma la Dolce Wilder mette alla berlina corruzione e moralismo con il tocco leggero di due innamorati che sfidano ogni ipocrisia per coronare il loro sogno romantico. 

Irma ha la sfrontatezza di una navigata professionista unita all'ingenuo stupore di un'anima bella. Ma che profumo sarebbe Irma? Un profumo che poteva nascere solo dal naso di colei che con le sue creazioni sa raccontare storie originali e diverse: Vero Kern. 

E la fragranza si chiama Rubj, realizzata nel 2007 per Vero.Profumo. Come tutti i profumi di Vero anche Rubj non ha una vera e propria piramide olfattiva, perché tutte le sue note evolvono insieme in un armonioso accordo policromo. La squisita luminosità dei fiori d'arancio abbraccia la voluttà del gelsomino in un pas de deux che fonde innocenza e femminilità.

La fragranza avvolge la pelle in un allure luminosa che stuzzicata da raffinate note muschiate e animaliche piano piano matura in toni più profondi. Il risultato è un jus caldo e avvolgente dal dry down morbido e polveroso. Irma è candida e generosa, abbraccia e consola pur difendendo la sua libertà di scegliere chi amare e che lavoro fare. Così Rubj è accogliente e carezzevole, scivola sulla pelle con il sapore cremoso di uno frutto proibito. La liaison tra Irma e Rubj è tutta in un fotogramma. 

Irma guarda verso l'obiettivo che la sta inquadrando. Un sorriso le illumina il volto, un sorriso che sa di ingenuità e di malizia, di seduzione e ironia. E' un bocciolo che si dischiude languidamente e che improvvisamente ha il guizzo che spiazza, solletica le narici e accende. La tenera dolcezza del fiore d'arancio del Marocco è eccitata dalle note pungenti del cumino, conturbanti come la luce che brilla nello sguardo di Irma. La sua pelle candida è fasciata in lingerie verde che contrasta con i capelli bruni e la bocca laccata di rosso. Il tutto profuma di opulenta femminilità, simile a un fragrante fiore di gelsomino egiziano inserito nel suo verde ricettacolo. La nota floreale possente è il narcotico che discioglie il profumo tra le spire melliflue di una seduzione insinuante che non ha più censure. Irma è seduta su un letto, in attesa di un cliente o forse del suo amante. Un'immagine che evoca memorie di lenzuola sgualcite e giacigli disfatti, di pelle sudata e di sorrisi appagati. Il muschio caldo e animale accoglie i fiori bianchi per arroventarli in un fondo talcato e profondamente sensuale. 


Irma è così, un perfetto equilibrio di sensibilità e impertinenza. Anima fiammeggiante che vive vendendo il suo amore a pagamento e che al contempo sa donare con passione il suo cuore all'uomo di cui è innamorata.

Questo duplicità è la stessa che troviamo in Rubj, una corolla di petali immacolati e vellutati inzuppati di carnale abbandono. La fragranza creata da Vero Kern ha il fascino inestinguibile delle fragranze classiche che intrigavano senza parsimonia, come il sorriso ammaliante di Irma La Douce. 



Rubj – Vero.Profumo 2007
Naso: Vero Kern
Famiglia: Fiorito orientale
Piramide Olfattiva: Rubj racchiude note di cumino, fiore d'arancio del Marocco, gelsomino egiziano e muschio
Per informazioni:
http://www.veroprofumo.com/
Se desiderate conoscere l'universo olfattivo di Vero qui la nostra intervista alla creatrice 





Irma la Dolce (Irma la Douce) – Billy Wilder 1963
Cast: Shirley MacLaine (Irma); Jack Lemmon (Nestore Patou/Lord X); Lou Jacobi (Moustache); Grace Lee Whitney (Kiki); Joan Shawlee (Annie)
Regia: Billy Wilder
Tratto dal musical Irma la Douce del 1956 di Marguerite Monnot e Alexandre Breffort.
Vincitore nel 1964 di un premio Oscar (colonna sonora di André Previn), di un Golden Globe (Shirley MacLaine) e di un David di Donatello (Shirley MacLaine)

Smell Festival Estate (Carovigno, 5-7 agosto 2016)

$
0
0
Diario di un fine settimana profumato: 
Smell Festival Estate, Carovigno 5-7 agosto, 2016.
by Gabriela Guidetti


Dopo la bellissima esperienza dello Smell Festival a Bologna lo scorso maggio, in questo 2016 ho raddoppiato il piacere di trascorrere un fine settimana profumato in occasione del primo Smell Festival Estate che si è tenuto tra il 5 e il 10 agosto presso il Castello Dentice di Frasso a Carovigno e nella riserva naturale di Torre Guaceto, incantevoli luoghi incastonati nell'Alto Salento pugliese.

Se l'anima della Contessa abbia aleggiato tra le antiche stanze del Castello di Carovigno non è dato sapere, ma certamente le fragranze che durante l'evento hanno accarezzato le mura secolari avrebbero risvegliato i sensi di molti spiriti dormienti.
Racchiudere in poche righe tutte le sensazioni olfattive provate in quei giorni è molto difficile e mi costringe a una sintesi piuttosto stringata dei tanti appuntamenti che hanno costellato il ricco programma di Smell Festival Estate.





Venerdì 5 agosto
Ad aprire le danze della serata inaugurale è stato il Perfume Showcase che dal pomeriggio inoltrato e per tutta la durata dell'evento a Carovigno ha presentato alcuni dei nomi più interessanti della profumeria di nicchia italiana e internazionale e della cosmesi della zona salentina. Per i numerosi visitatori che hanno affollato le sale del castello è stata una magnifica opportunità conoscere da vicino le fragranze e incontrare i loro creatori in un viaggio profumato che ha abbracciato la Provenza della Maison Molinard, l' incontro olfattivo italo-francese di Coquillete Paris, la creatività made in Italy di Maria Candida Gentile, Rubini Profumi, Paglieri 1876, Bruno Acampora e Homoelegans e il benessere naturale di Essentia Puglia, PrimitivOil, Pumo Pugliese e Olfaxis.
Il primo incontro con il pubblico ha visto protagonista Carvinea, un'azienda vinicola del territorio pugliese, i cui prodotti hanno ottenuto riconoscimenti importanti. E proprio per suggellare la vicinanza olfattiva di vino e profumo, la presentazione è stata allietata dalla degustazione dei loro prodotti di spicco come il Rosè Metodo Classico Brut, il Mezula Rosa e Otto, un riscoperto Ottavianello dal sapore intenso. 




La serata è proseguita nell'omaggio a due signore del profumo, Maria Candida Gentile e Rosa Vaia.
Maria Candida Gentile, Maître Parfumeur, ha intrattenuto i presenti raccontando del suo approccio al processo creativo che può svilupparsi, come per Elephant & Roses, da un'intuizione folgorante di elefanti che camminano sulle rose, o, per Gershwin, dal ricordo vivido degli odori dello studio del padre mentre ascoltava la musica preferita, fino all'omaggio concettuale al doppio di Duchamp, Rrose Sélavy, raffigurato in una inconsueta rosa destrutturata e distillata in ogni sua parte. 

La serata si è conclusa con l'incontro con Rosa Vaia, co-fondatrice assieme a Elise Juarros di Coquillete Paris, giovane brand nato nel 2012. Nell'incontro Rosa ha sottolineato in particolare l'importanza della scelta delle materie prime per le loro fragranze. Solo dall'approfondita conoscenza di tali materie e dalla continua sperimentazione posso nascere profumi che siano in grado di creare suggestioni. Rosa ha anche inviato i presenti ad annusare in anteprima sei nuove fragranze appartenenti a una innovativa collezione presentata poi a Pitti Fragranze 2016 e rivolta al settore del benessere delle persona. 


Sabato 6 agosto
La mattina del sabato ha visto finalmente l'avvio degli workshop. Sulla magnifica terrazza del castello, incuneata tra le fronde di alberi secolari, ci attendeva il maestro di alchimie olfattive Luigi Cristiano. Oggetto del workshop è stata una delle note più antiche della profumeria, caratteristica delle fragranze orientali e cioè l'ambra, l'inestimabile quanto umile sostanza secreta dall'intestino dei capodogli da tempo ormai sostituita da succedanei naturali o da molecole sintetiche. Luigi ha guidato i partecipanti armati di pipette e flaconi nel tentativo di ricreare un blend ambrato. Dopo aver così mescolato oli e infusi secondo dosi prestabilite e con un tocco di fantasia, alla fine è stata ottenuta una pozione deliziosamente profumata, degna di ornare la pelle delicata delle nobildonne dei tempi antichi. 



Terminato il primo workshop, i lavori si sono interrotti per la pausa pranzo e sono ripresi nel pomeriggio con Beatrice Baccon che ha introdotto il secondo workshop della giornata sulle materie prime naturali in profumeria. Beatrice dopo aver illustrato in generale cosa si intende per olio essenziale, come riconoscerlo e quali piante o parti di esse usare, ha spiegato i metodi utilizzabili per estrarre in proprio le profumate essenze: estrazione tramite olio, per ottenere un oleolito, o tramite alcol per ottenere un alcolato o infuso. Beatrice si è soffermata sui tipi di solvente consigliati, sui dosaggi, sui tempi e modi di conservazione e lavorazione, sui risultati ottenibili sia nel caso di pianta fresca, che di pianta essiccata, di cortecce o di semi. 

Di seguito in sala eventi è iniziata la lectio magistralis tenuta dal giornalista e scrittore Gianni De Martino sui rituali cultuali profumati di ieri e di oggi. Dagli albori della civiltà le erbe aromatiche e le resine sono state bruciate sugli altari in onore e in nome della divinità. Timo, abete rosso, bacche di ginepro, legno di sandalo, incenso, ruta, queste sono solo alcune delle essenze utilizzate. Spaziando dagli sciamani buriati alla macumba, dai sufi al cristianesimo è possibile trovare rituali comuni di fumigazioni purificatrici e liturgiche in cui il fuoco e il profumo rappresentano elementi di unione tra terra e cielo. 

La serata è continuata con la presentazione di Essentia Puglia, impresa locale nata con l'intento di valorizzare due dei simboli della terra salentina: l'oliva e l'uva. Alma Argese, una delle fondatrici dell'azienda, ha esposto l'utilizzo cosmetico di questi magnifici tesori pugliesi della tradizione che il brand ripropone in formulazioni innovative. Tutto il ciclo produttivo di questi cosmetici naturali è realizzato artigianalmente in Puglia, sino alla confezione manuale del sacchetto di juta che racchiude i flaconi. Durante l'incontro Alma ha introdotto anche Pumo Pugliese, la linea di eleganti profumatori ambiente in ceramica ispirati ai boccioli o pigne beneauguranti di terracotta che decorano ancora oggi le case pugliesi. 


Il profumo dell'Alto Salento aleggiava ancora nell'aria, quando in sala eventi ha avuto inizio l'incontro con Fundamental di Rubini Profumi, condotto dal content designer della fragranza Ermano Picco. Ermano ha narrato la storia della genesi di Fundamental, una scommessa lanciata da Andrea Rubini e raccolta da un team tutto italiano per racchiudere in un flacone le fondamenta olfattive della famiglia Rubini. Pensata da Ermano e realizzata dal naso Cristiano Canali, la fragranza è stata racchiusa in un guscio disegnato da Francesca Gotti e realizzato in candida glebanite, prodotto del riciclo dei cascami della vetroresina. Ermano ci ha guidato nei luoghi che il fondatore di casa Rubini frequentava nei primi anni del XX secolo: negozi di barbieri, salotti eleganti e boudoir, camerini e assiti consumati di palcoscenici teatrali. Cristiano ha trasformato in fragranza questa memoria utilizzando materie prime d'eccellenza come la preziosa concreta di iris fiorentino, il vetiver di java e l'accordo di uva soave. Il profumo ha poi trovato la sua culla nel packaging di Francesca, un involucro tecnologico che lascia intravvedere la trasparenza del flacone e fa da legame tra passato e futuro. 

La serata si è conclusa con le suggestioni olfattive di Molinard, Maison che affonda le sue antiche radici in Provenza. Fondata nel 1849 a Grasse, la casa profumiera francese è ora diretta dalla quinta discendente della famiglia Molinard, Célia Lerouge-Bénard, che assieme a Barbara Loddo Vismara di Aquacosmetics, ha presentato le ultime novità. Dopo un breve excursus sulla storia della sua famiglia e sulle fragranze classiche, tra cui Habanita, profumo del 1921 che rivoluzionò il concetto di jus femminile introducendo nella piramide olfattiva il vetiver, Célia ha parlato del nuovo corso della Maison. Molinard è una delle poche case profumiere gestite ancora dalla famiglia che l'ha fondata e per questo ha avuto l'onore di ricevere il marchio EPV attribuito agli ambasciatori dell'artigianalità francese. Célia è la prima donna ad assumere l'incarico di direttore e in occasione del suo quinto anno ha creato una linea esclusiva, la Collection Privée, omaggio alle cinque generazioni, per rimarcare il filo conduttore tra tradizione e modernità. Ha inoltre presentato le ultime realizzazioni, da Habanita La Cologne, alla linea Les Elements e alla linea Les Prestige. 


Domenica 7 agosto
La mattina della domenica si è aperta con il terzo workshop condotto dal creatore di fragranze Martino Cerizza e dedicato alla realizzazione di una composizione olfattiva dal sapore mediterraneo. E cosa c'è di più mediterraneo del chypre, quel blend ispirato agli aromi di Cipro che nel 1917 Coty decise di trasformare in uno dei classici della profumeria? Martino ha invitato i partecipanti a rielaborare la composizione tradizionale e a personalizzarla secondo il proprio gusto. Partendo da una base neutra in cui il bergamotto era stato in parte sostituito dall'elemi per dare un cotè più leggera al jus, i novelli profumieri dilettanti hanno potuto completare la fragranza con uno o più dei quattro accordi proposti da Martino: aromatico, legnoso, fiorito/speziato e chypre classico. Sotto gli occhi attenti del Maestro, dopo aver deciso le proporzioni e i dosaggi ognuno ha potuto creare la propria composizione, specchio del personale stile olfattivo. 




Come per il giorno precedente, le attività si sono fermate all'ora di pranzo per riprendere poi con il quarto e ultimo workshop in calendario tenuto da Luigi Cristiano sull'accordo chypre. Lo studio degli aromi mediterranei della mattina è stato così completato da Luigi con un approfondimento del concetto di chypre e con la creazione di una fragranza originale. Per mostrare in pratica come creare una tintura, Luigi si è presentato con alcuni esempi di materie prime naturali che si era procurato durante una passeggiata nei dintorni di Carovigno: mandarini ancora verdi, rametti di cipresso, carrube, muschio, cisto marino e resina di lentisco. Messe in infusione nell'alcol, in poco tempo hanno colorato il liquido di un luminoso verde smeraldo a mano a mano che gli oli essenziali venivano estratti. Nel mentre in un altro recipiente venivano mischiati in diverse dosaggi altri estratti odorosi che in seguito, uniti all'infusione, hanno dato vita a una composizione fresca e aromatica, perfetta per rinnovare nel tempo il ricordo della profumata terra salentina. 


Il tardo pomeriggio è proseguito con l'incontro dedicato all'età moderna della profumeria italiana. Relatore l'ineffabile Ermano Picco, blogger, perfume designer, collezionista ed esperto di storia della profumeria. Ermano ha piacevolmente intrattenuto i presenti illustrando, con l'aiuto di immagini e di flaconi originali, circa trent'anni di fragranze italiane, dal 1937 al 1963. Ermano ha raccontato la storia di marchi storici da Elsa Schiaparelli, l'italiana che rivoluzionò con Shocking l'ambiente del lusso parigino alla fine degli anni '30, fino a Capucci negli anni 60, con Capucci Pour Homme e Graffiti, passando per la Bertelli, famosa per le ciprie, la Gi.Vi.Emme di Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone, creatore dei mitici Acqua di Selva e Tabacco d'Harar, la Rancè, nata in Francia e poi trasferitasi a Milano, la Paglieri e la sua Felce Azzurra, fino alla Violetta di Parma di Borsari. 



Dopo questo interessante viaggio tra fragranze ormai rare, il programma prevedeva un perfetto fil rouge con il futuro di una Maison italiana di grande tradizione, la Paglieri che oggi ha ritrovato nuova vita nell'ambito della profumeria artistica. Antonella Pascale, direttrice creativa, ha presentato Paglieri 1876, la linea formata da sei omaggi a sei città italiane che rappresentano la memoria artistica e storica, riproposta in un moderno itinerario olfattivo: Agrigentum, un gourmand orientale; Amalphia, un fiorito agrumato; Florentia, un orientale legnoso; Genua, un agrumato legnoso; Romae, un chypre fiorito; Venetiae, un orientale fiorito. 




Anche le belle cose finiscono. E Smell Festival Estate purtroppo ha avuto il suo epilogo, ma a suon di tamburo, anzi, di tamburello. Infatti in occasione di questa prima edizioni estiva, Smell Festival e La Gardenia nell'Occhiello hanno promosso il premio OSA – OUTSIDER SCENTS AWARDS, per la creazione di fragranze inedite realizzate in ambito artigianale. Il tema di OSA a cui i profumieri dovevano ispirarsi era il paesaggio olfattivo del Mediterraneo con particolare riferimento ai sentori della garriga costiera. Una giuria di esperti composta da Martino Cerizza, Luigi Cristiano, Maria Candida Gentile, Barbara Loddo Vismara, Antonella Pascale ed Ermano Picco e presieduta dall’Assessore alla cultura e marketing territoriale del Comune di Carovigno, Pietro Laghezza, dopo attenta valutazione ha deciso di assegnare il premio a Lumière Verte di Luca Cavaleri, un chypre verde che, secondo il parere della giuria, trova poche referenze nella genealogia delle fragranze e che qui brilla per equilibrio e grande eleganza. 





La premiazione è avvenuta in sala eventi e la proclamazione è stata preceduta da un'energica rullata da parte di alcuni giovani suonatori di tamburello, strumento pugliese tipico che ha ispirato gli organizzatori del premio. Infatti un tamburello realizzato da artigiani e artisti locali e completato dal nome del vincitore è stato l'originale trofeo che ha suggellato l'incontro olfattivo tra Smell Festival e il Comune di Carovigno con l'augurio che questo evento possa trasformarsi in un piacevole abitudine a cadenza annuale. 


Questo ultimo appuntamento ha chiusa la tre giorni di Smell Festival Estate presso le sale del Castello Dentice di Frasso. Prima di concludere desidero ringraziare Pietro Laghezza, che ha voluto fortemente l'edizione estiva di Smell Festival a Carovigno, e tutti coloro che hanno trasformato un fine settimana di agosto in una favola profumata che rimarrà per sempre indelebile nel ricordo di chi ha avuto il privilegio di viverla. 









Luigi Cristiano: http://www.profumiere.it/
(represented by ART'E CGM)






-----(english)-----------------------------------------------

Smell Festival Summer Edition, 
August 5-7, 2016, Carovigno.
by Gabriela Guidetti.


After the wonderful experience of the Smell Festival in Bologna in May, this year I doubled the pleasure of spending a scented weekend in the first Smell Festival Summer Edition, held from 5 to 7 August in the Castle Dentice di Frasso (Carovigno) and in the natural reserve of  "Torre Guaceto", enchanting places set in Alto Salento, in Puglia.
If the ghost of the Countess has hovered through the ancient rooms of the Castle in Carovigno it is not known, but certainly the fragrances that brushed the centuries-old walls during the event would awaken the senses of many sleeping souls.
Recap in a few lines all the olfactory sensations felt in those days is very hard, and I am compelled to a summary of the many events that have marked the rich Smell Summer Festival program.





Friday, August 5.
Starting off the Opening Day has been the Perfume Showcase that every evening throughout the event in Carovigno presented some of the most interesting names of Italian and International niche parfumery and cosmetics manufacturers in the Salento area. What a  wonderful opportunity for the many visitors who crowded the halls of the castle, to get closer to the fragrances and meet their creators! It was an olfactive journey from Provence with the Maison Molinard to the perfumed encounters between Italy and France by Coquillete Paris, from the Italian creativity of Maria Candida Gentile, Rubini Profumi, Paglieri 1876, Bruno Acampora and Homoelegans to the natural wellbeing of Essentia Puglia, PrimitivOil, Pumo Pugliese and Olfaxis.
The first meeting concerned Carvinea, an Apulia wine house, whose products have won many awards. And to emphasize the olfactory affinity between wine and perfume, the presentation has been delightful accompanied by a tasting of their leading products such as the Rosé Brut, the Mezula Rosa and Otto, a rediscovered Ottavianello with intense flavor. 

The evening went on with a tribute to two Ladies of perfumery, Maria Candida Gentile and Rosa Vaia.
Maria Candida Gentile, Maître Parfumeur, has entertained the audience by telling of her approach to the creative process which might develope, such as for Elephant & Roses, from a dazzling intuition of elephants walking on roses, or, about Gershwin, from the vivid memory of smells of his father's studio while listening to favorite music, up to the abstract tribute to Duchamp's double, Rrose Sélavy, depicted in an unusual deconstructed rose, distilled in its entirety. 

The day event ended with the meeting with Rosa Vaia, co-founder along with Elise Juarros of Coquillete Paris, a young brand created in 2012. Rosa highlighted the importance of the choice of raw materials for their fragrances. Perfumes are attractive only because in-dept knowledge of such materials and persistent experimentation. Rose has also invited the audience to smell a preview of six new fragrances belonging to an innovative collection for wellbeing sector, made known only at Pitti Fragranze 2016. 


Saturday, August 6
On Saturday morning the first workshop finally started. On the magnificent terrace of the castle, wedged between the leafy branches of ancient trees, the Master of olfactory alchemy, Luigi Cristiano, was waiting or us. The subject of the workshop was one of the oldest perfumery notes, peculiarity of oriental jus: amber, the priceless and however humble substance secreted by the intestines of sperm whales, now replaced by natural substitutes or synthetic molecules. Luigi led the participants armed with pipettes and flasks in an attempt to do an amber blend. After having thus blended oils and infusions according to fixed doses and with a touch of fantasy, at the end a deliciously scented potion was obtained, worthy of adorning the delicate skin of the noble women in ancient times. 



After the first workshop, works stopped for lunch break and resumed in the afternoon with Beatrice Baccon who introduced the workshop on natural raw materials in perfumery. Beatrice after general explanation about what is meant by essential oil, how to recognize it and what plants, or parts of them, to use, illustrated the methods to extract their own scented essences: by oil, to get a oleolito, or by alcohol to obtain an alcoholate. Beatrice focused on recommended solvent types, including doses, on timing and methods of preparation and conservation, on the results obtained in case of fresh plant, or dried plant, or bark, or seeds. 




Here in Event Room began a lectio magistralis given by the journalist and writer Gianni De Martino about religious scented rituals yesterday and today. From the dawn of civilization, herbs and resins were burned on the altars in honor and name of God. Thyme, spruce, juniper berries, sandalwood, incense, rue, these are just some of the used essences. Ranging from the Buryat shamans to Macumba, from Sufis to Christianity, you can find common rituals of purifying and liturgical fumigations where the fire and the scents are elements of union between earth and heavens. 



The program continued with the presentation of Essentia Puglia, alocal company aimed at promoting two of the symbols of the Salento: olives and grapes. Alma Argese, one of the founders of the company, exposed the cosmetic use of these magnificent treasures of the Apulian tradition, that the brand proposes in innovative formulations. The entire production cycle is handcrafted in Puglia, even the handmade jute bag that encloses the bottles. During the meeting Alma also introduced Pumo Pugliese, the line of elegant ceramic fragrance pomander inspired by terracotta good luck buds or pine cones that still decorate Apulian house.



The scent of the Alto Salento land still hung in the air, when in Event Room began the presentation of Fundamental (Rubini Profumi) by content designer fragrance Ermano Picco. Ermano narrated the story of Fundamental since its genesis, a challenge launched by Andrea Rubini and took up by an Italian team to enclose in a bottle the olfactory foundations of his family. Designed by Ermano and realised by nose Cristiano Canali, the fragrance has been enclosed in a sort of shell designed by Francesca Gotti and made by "glebanite", a product obtained from recycling of fiberglass waste. Ermano leaded us in the places that Rubini's Founder attended in the early years of the twentieth century: the barbers shops, elegant lounges and boudoir, dressing rooms and consumed theater stage floors. Cristiano turned into fragrance these memories by using excellent raw materials such as precious Florentine iris concrete, java vetiver, and an accord of Soave grapes. The scent eventually found its cradle in the packaging of Francesca, a technology wrapper revealing the transparency of the bottle as a link between past and future.


The day ended with the olfactory suggestions of Molinard, a Maison sinking its ancient roots in Provence. Founded in 1849 in Grasse, Molinard is now directed by the fifth descendant of the family, Célia Lerouge-Bénard, who presented the latest products with Barbara Loddo Vismara of Aquacosmetics. After a brief digression on her family history and on the classic fragrances, including Habanita, a perfume launched in 1921 that revolutionized the concept of women's jus introducing vetiver in the olfactory pyramid, Célia spoke about the new deal of the Maison. Molinard is one of the perfume Maisons still managed by the founding family and for that was honored to receive the EPV label awarded to French craftsmanship ambassadors. Celia is the first woman to assume the position of Director and on the occasion of its fifth year she created an exclusive line, the Collection Privée, a tribute to the five generations and a common thread between tradition and modernity. She also presented the new fragrances, as Habanita The Cologne, the Les Elements line and Les Prestige line. 





Sunday, August 7
Sunday morning began with the third workshop conducted by parfumer Martino Cerizza and dedicated to the creation of an olfactory composition with a Mediterranean flavor. And what's more Mediterranean of chypre, the blend inspired by Cyprus scents? During 1917 Coty decided to turn into one of the classics of perfumery, and Martino asked to rework the traditional composition and personalise it according to personal taste. Starting from a neutral base in which bergamot had been replaced by elemi to give a lighter cotè to the jus, the perfume "amateurs" have been able to complete the fragrance with one or more of the four accords proposed by Martino: aromatic, woody, flower / spicy and classic chypre. Under the watchful eyes of the Master, once having decided the proportions and the dosages, everyone created their own scent, mirror of the personal olfactory style.



As for the previous day, the activities stopped for lunch and started again later with the fourth and last workshop held by Luigi Cristiano about chypre. The morning work on Mediterranean flavors has been completed by Luigi with a detailed concept of chypre and the creation of an original fragrance. To show in practice how to create an infusion, Luigi had brought some examples of natural raw materials which he had provided during a walk near Carovigno: green tangerine, cypress twigs, carobs, moss, cistus and mastic. Luigi put them in alcoholic infusion and in a few minutes the liquid became emerald green as essential oils were extracted. Meanwhile in another container other fragrant extracts were mixed in different dosages, later combined with the bright emerald infusion, created a fresh and aromatic fragrance, perfect for leaving pleasant memory of scented Salento. 



The afternoon continued with the meeting on the modern age of Italian perfumery. Speaker was again the ineffable Ermano Picco, blogger, perfume designer, collector and expert on the history of perfumery. Ermano entertained the audience on thirty years of Italian fragrances (1937-1963) with images and original bottles. Ermano told the story of historical brands from Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian lady who revolutionized Parisian luxury scene in the late '30s with Shocking, up to Capucci in the 60s, with Capucci Pour Homme and Graffiti, including Bertelli, famous for its powders, Gi.Vi.Emme of Giuseppe Visconti, the legendary creator of Acqua di Selva and Tabacco d'Harar, Rancè, founded in France and then moved to Milan, Paglieri and its Felce Azzurra, and last but not least, the Violetta di Parma by Borsari. 




After this charming journey in theserare fragrances, the program included the perfect fil rouge between past and future of a great traditional italian Maison, Paglieri, revived within artistic perfumery. Antonella Pascale, creative director, presented Paglieri 1876, the product line composed by six tributes to six Italian cities representing the artistic and historical memory, reproposed in a modern olfactory itinerary: Agrigentum, an oriental gourmand; Amalphia, a floral citrus; Florentia, an oriental woody ; Genua, a woody citrus; Romae, a floral chypre; Venetiae, a floral oriental. 



However even good things come to an end... and also Smell Summer Festival had en epilogue, but to the sound of the drum, or better, of the tambourine. Indeed, on the occasion of this first summer edition, Smell Festival and La Gardenia nell'Occhiello promoted the OAS prize - OUTSIDER SCENTS AWARDS, for creating unreleased handcrafted fragrances. The theme of OSA was the olfactory landscape of the Mediterranean with particular reference to the coastal scrubland scents. A jury of experts including Martino Cerizza, Luigi Cristiano, Maria Candida Gentile, Barbara Loddo Vismara, Antonella Pascale and Ermano Picco and chaired by Councillor for Culture and Territorial Marketing of the City of Carovigno, Pietro Laghezza, after careful consideration decided to award the prize to Lumière Verte by Luca Cavaleri, a green chypre which, in the opinion of the jury, finds a few references in the fragrances genealogy, and here stands out for balance and great elegance. 




The award ceremony took place in event room and the proclamation was preceded by a vigorous rolling by some young players of tambourine, Apulia typical instruments that inspired the award organizers. Because a tambourine made by local craftsmen and artists, and completed by the winner's name was the original trophy that sealed the olfactory encounter between Smell Festival and the City of Carovigno with the hope that this event will become an annually pleasant habit. 


This last event ended the three days of Smell Summer Festival in the rooms of the Castle Dentice di Frasso. Before closing, I wish to thank Pietro Laghezza, who strongly desired Smell Summer Festival in Carovigno, and all who turned a weekend in August in a fragrant fairy tale, forever indelible in memory of those who had the privilege of living it.









Websites of mentioned brands and participants:
Luigi Cristiano: http://www.profumiere.it/



GUERLAIN Stickers.

$
0
0




"Dears,
Elena and I were very thrilled listening your idea about dating old Guerlain perfumes relying on stickers only, and we checked our old family archives to find out some useful infos identifying all subtle differences you mentioned. It was amusing, a sort of jigsaw puzzle game, and we found some interesting things. It is not 100% accurate, of course, but it could be useful when you have to rely on stickers only, without any further clue (box, codes...). 
We hope this can helps. 
Yours, 
Elena and Vincenzo"

(All pictures were sent from friends around the web, and were purposedly placed side-by-side to the text: if some copyright infringement occurred, please let us know) 
-----------------------------------

1930s, during the World War II, and
 until end of 1940s.

There are "red&blue" stickers with indications about "province et en Belgique", and roman numbers printed on the right side. Example:










--------------------------------

During World War II (for export)

"Red&blue" stickers with words "Made in France". Example:



--------------------------

Since 1950, until 1955-1956.

"Red&blue" stickers (without any indication about Belgium) 
with roman/latin numbers now printed on the left side only.
Example:





--------------------------------------

During 1956/57 until beginning of 1960s.

Monochrome stickers (blue, black, orange, red, green....) appear, with Arabic numerals. Check for the final words "...magasins de Paris". Example:




(Key fact 1: Blue-paper packaging discontinued at the beginning of 1960s 
and replaced  by "dot/coffee beans" box.) 
Last blue paper package

(Key fact 2: during a transition period, you could see "new" monochrome sticker 
with "old" roman numbers, instead of arabic ones, on the left side ) 
Early Monochrome sticker with roman numbers
------------------------

Since beginning of 1960s until 1967

Monochrome stickers with new final words:
 "..legislation en vigueur", and arabic numerals without any letter (A,B) printed in the left corner. Example:





--------------------

Since 1967 until 1976 : 

Monochrome stickers with final words "...legislation en vigueur" and a letter (A,B) printed in the left corner. Example:






(Key fact: despite zig-zag boxes report the line "Guerlain, 1967", 
actually during year 1967 we saw "Dots/coffee beans" boxes only)


(Key fact 2: during 1975-1976 we see a monochrome sticker,with letters in the corner,
 and  words "Societè Guerlain")



(Key fact about the "american" bottles if you read "Somers, NY, 10589": Guerlain run a factory/laboratory in Somers, near New York, USA, since early 1970s up late 1980s. )


-------------------

Since 1976:
classic batch code repeated every 10 years.
(see here)

Year 1976

Year 1978

Year 1978


Year 1980

-----------------------------------------------

IN A NUTSHELL...


-Before 1950: "Red&Blue" sticker with indication to "Province and Belgium" and roman numbers on the right side 
-1950-1957: "Red&Blue" sticker without indication to "Belgium" and with roman numbers on left side
-1957-early 1960s: monochrome sticker with arabic numerals only, ending with "...magasins de Paris."
-Early 1960-1967: monochrome sticker ending with "..legislation en vigueur."
-1967-1976: monochrome sticker with a letter in left corner (usually A or B)
-since 1976 : traditional batch code 

----------------------------------------------------

Many thanks to:
Grace Hummel (guerlainperfumes.blogspot.com)
Monsieur Guerlain (www.monsieurguerlain.com)
Kafka (www.kafkaesqueblog.com)
Dominique (les-parfums.info)

(original source of images unknown since we received all pics through the web: if any infringement occurred, please let us know) 

Yesterday and Today: "La Nuit de L'Homme" EdT, by Yves Saint Laurent (guest post)

$
0
0




Hi there! 
This is my first post, here at "Raiders of the Lost Scent". A few months ago I wrote a brief note about "fragrance formulas" reported on the boxes in all Dior perfumes, suggesting them as a method for detecting reformulations (see here). Surprisingly, that post gained a lot of resonance among perfume enthusiasts (you can find discussions and even Youtube videos explaining formulas written on the box, codes, "secret numbers".....).   
Following this track, I accepted to make a funny, similar work, with another acclaimed male scent: La Nuit de l'Homme EdT, by Yves Saint Laurent, performing tests, then checking "formulas" on the boxes and discussing the results. 
Yves Saint Laurent has actually been using "formulas" for a long time, and every YSL scent (EdP, EdT, AfterShave) has its own "formula" at the end of the ingredient listed on the box.


SAMPLES
I got four samples: 
-year 2009 (batch 9Axx, the first one produced)
-year 2014 (batch 38Lxxx)
-year 2015 (batch 38Mxxx)
-year 2016 (batch 38Nxxx)





TESTS
As you should know, smelling tests at own home have to be performed on different surfaces to really detect any difference. By performing an "home test" (not to say laboratory tests...) you should spray at least your skin, paper and some clothes, then check similarities and differences.



RESULTS
There are clearly three different formulations, the first being the original one; after that, there was a subtle but clear reformulation in the samples marked "year 2014" and "year 2015" (both are identical), and finally another reformulation in the "year 2016" sample. 
This last one is the most remarkable, because there is quite a difference with other samples.
The original one (year 2009) opens quietly with a wave of spices, the second one (years 2014-2015) has a considerable brighter opening, spritzing fresh spices all over you. 
But the first one (2009) has a darker and more intense drydown, while the other (2014-2015) has a lighter, fresher ending. 
Longevity and projection are identical in these three samples.
Differences are negligible on paper, barely perceptible on skin, and evident on a heavy scarf. 

The last sample (year 2016) should need a discussion apart, since there are great differences from beginning to end. The whole fragrance has apparently been "rearranged". 
In every stage it appears "rounded", "smoothened", there is no sharp note. 
Longevity and projections are on par with previous versions, but the whole scent is not the same than before.
    

DISCUSSION:
Now let's go for the "formulas". All YSL scents report the "fragrance formulas" on the boxes, put at the last place in the ingredient lists. 
When you read letters and numbers such as "YK05-3" (it's an example), you could think to a "captive", i.e an unnamed secret ingredient, but that's the "formula" instead. 
When the formula changes, you could legitimately think a reformulation occurred. 
Please note every version has its own "formula", so "La Nuit de L'Homme EdT" has a different formula from "Intense", "Parfum", "Sport", "Frozen Cologne", etc. 
Even EdT and After Shave have different formulas! You must be very precise in reporting it.

(unfortunately, "reformulations" are very frequent: the legendary Kouros EdT, one of the YSL's most iconic scents of the Eighties, had 4 different versions/formulations in just 10 years, from 2005 to 2015.......)

Early boxes (2009) : formula is "8YB02-1"

This is typical year 2011 box,
batch 62Hxxx, and you see the "8YB02-2" formula

Apart the formula, you can see the ingredients list has slightly changed too, from 2009 to 2011.

Year 2015: Fragrance Ingredients List (F.I.L.) is "8YB02/2"

Things remained the same at least until year 2015, then.....


Two boxes side-by-side:
year 2014 ( 8YB02-2 ) and year 2016 ( C167049/1 )

You can read: "Alcohol-Parfum-Water" in 2014 and 2015, and "Alcohol-Water-Parfum" in 2016.

Magnification of a typical 2016 box with
Fragrance Ingredient List (F.I.L.) "C167049/1"

Finally, year 2016 box has a different formula and ingredients list.
You can assume "La Nuit de L'Homme" EdT underwent at least three different formulations since its launch in 2009, until 2016.


--------------------------------
LABELS

Early bottles (2009-2010) with old label:
"B.R.I. 28-31, Bd du Parc, Neuilly Cedex France"
(B.R.I = Beaute Recherche Industrie, L'Oreal)

Since year 2011:
new label "YSL Beaute"



----------------------------------
CONCLUSION

La Nuit de L'Homme EdT (formulas)
2009- "8YB02-1" 
2011- "8YB02-2"
2016- "C167049/1"

L'Oreal (YSL) batch codes: 
2009: 9xxx
2010: 0xxx
2011: letter H as third in the row (i.e.: 62H001)
2012: letter J
2013: letter K
2014: letter L
2015: letter M
2016: letter N


Briefly: 
-Want a darker, more intense scent? Go for early bottles (2009,2010); 
-Want a brighter but fresher scent? Go for any bottle produced between 2011-2015; 
-If you prefer a smoothened scent, check for the last one (2016).

....and have a good sniffing!

Alberto Converano

How to recognize CARON perfumes (1965-2015)

$
0
0



Dear Sirs,
we are a couple of avid scent collectors, and we stumbled upon your magnificent blog. What a surprise to be able to "decode" so many perfumes at last! 
However, we noticed a big void: Perfumes CARON.
Hence here's a short guide for dating most CARON fragrances from 1965 to 2015. Please note this has to be intended as a tribute to Caron, one of the finest perfume brands ever created, and not for commercial purpose. Caron suffered many highs and downs during its history, but succedeed in maintaining an high standard of quality. Many Carons are really masterpiece of perfumery.
Unfortunately, the huge amount of different boxes and bottles produced for the same scent make the "dating" a bit difficult. Just as an example, more than fifteen different boxes/bottles of "Infini de Caron" were produced! Put simply, you can't rely on shape of the bottle (or textures on the boxes) only.
Here you will learn how to "decode" the batchcodes: not so easy at first sight, but you will soon understand the "pattern". A lot of tutorial pics will help you.
Anyway, please keep this guide free, and without commercial purposes.
Sincerely,
Alessandro C.
Gisella B.

----------------------------------
A brief historical summary... 

- Year 1962: The owners of Parfums Caron sold the company to a group of French bankers and entrepreneurs (Hottinger/Elkann). They tried to modernize the brand, reorganizing all aspects from marketing to production, and in 1965 moved to new offices in "104, Rue de Richelieu, Paris". You can read this address on vintage leaflets (old addresses, before 1965, were: "Rue de la Paix"/"Place Vendome")

-Year 1967: A.H. Robins, an U.S. pharmaceutical firm, acquires Parfums Caron.
1970: launch of Infini
1976: launch of Yatagan

- End 1970s/ Early 1980s: Parfums Caron begin to suffer a decline in sellings, partially due to A.H Robins financial issues.
1980: launch of Eau de Caron
1981: launch of Nocturnes
1985: launch of  Le 3eme Homme
1986: launch of  Montaigne

- Year 1987: A.H Robins sells "Parfums Caron" to RevillonLuxe (group Cora-Revillon). Unfortunately, steady decline continues....
1990: launch of Parfum Sacre
1993: launch of Fleur de Rocaille
1994: launch of Eau de Cologne de Caron
1996: launch of AimezMoi

- Year 1997: After many years of poor sellings, Parfums Caron is sold to L.T. Piver.
1997: launch of Eau Pure de Caron and Eau Fraiche de Caron

- Year 1998: After just a few months, Ales Group (formerly Phyto-Lierac) acquires Parfums Caron (it's the current owner), trying to revamp the brand.
1999: launch of Eau Forte de Caron
2000: launch of L'Anarchiste and Lady Caron
2001: launch of Pour une Femme
2004: launch of Miss Rocaille and Tubereuse
2005: launch of Impact pour un Homme
2006: launch of Reglisse
2008: launch of Le Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron
2010: launch of Parfum Sacre Intense
2011: launch of Yuzu Man, Delire de Roses, Secret Oud, and Accord 119.


---------------------------------------
If you want to identify your Caron.....
REMEMBER the CLUES!
(valid for european-made bottles only)

-EMB code on the box: appeared around 1977
-Barcode on the box: since 1990-1991
-Greendot on ther box: since 1992
-ADDRESS (paper inside the box) : 
since 1965 until end of 1970s you will find a paper inside the box with the address: "104, Rue de Richelieu, Paris"No address on the box until 1992.
This is the paper you can find inside all Caron Perfumes since 1965
Check the address "104 Rue de Richelieu Paris". 

then in 1992....
there is an ADDRESS printed on the BOX:
years 1992 - 1998 :  "3, Avenue Percier, 75008 Paris"
years 1998 -1999:  "40, Rue la Boetie, 75008 Paris"(very rare)
Since 1999: "99, Faubourg St. Honore Paris"
...and more specifically: 
-between 1999 and 2001: "99, Faubourg St. Honore, Paris, Made in France"
-after year 2002: "99, Faubourg St. Honore, Paris, Made in France, Bezons."

and finally.....
-List of ALLERGENS:  since 2004-2005


----------------------------------------
The BATCH CODE : 
the YEAR of production 
is the last number, but......

Usually you will find a batch code of this type:  "xxxxxx3" (it's an example)
You have to take in consideration the last number, because that is the "year of production". In this case could be 1973, 1983, 1993, 2003, or 2013. By adding other clues (addresses, EMB code, list of allergens, etc...) you will able to determine the correct date......


.....but BE CAREFUL
....because batch codes were reported in different ways:

during 1960 until 1980usually 6-7 digits batch code (numbers).
Typical batch code from 1960s to late 1970s
Just consider the last number (in this case, 7)

between 1980 and 1984/5 : there was a long batch code on the boxes with mixed letters and numbers. You have to check the FOURTH number. (Please note that these first four numbers on the BOX are the same on the bottom of the BOTTLE)
Just consider the fourth number:
this is the year of production (in this case, number 1, i.e. year 1981)

....and first four numbers on the box
are the same on the bottom of the bottle.

Between 1984/5 and 2001: one or two-rows batchcode (no letters, numbers only). You will find them on the bottom of the bottle, too. 
You have to consider, again, the LAST number in the second row
A typical two-rows batch code: consider the last number in the second row:
in this case, 6 (it could be year 1986 or year 1996.
Actually it's 1986 because there is no address on the box. Addresses appeared in 1992)

An example of one-row batch code: "24590 118 1"
 Consider the last number (1). It could be 1991 or 2001, actually it's year 2001,
 because there is an address on the box.

Since 2002: 6 or 7 digits batch code, and you have to consider the last one. You can find these numbers etched on the back of the bottle, too.
(notable exception during years 2002-2003-2004-2005..... 
there was a 5-digits code with letter "B" in the middle, i.e. Bezons, although it was seldom used. The year is always the last number)

Batch 011047: consider the last number (7),  so it's year 2007

An example of the rare "Bezons" batch code (early 2000s):
in this case 44B02 = year 2002

The batch code on the back of the bottle


---------------------------
BEWARE.....
the REF. is NOT the batch code!

------------------------------------
.....and, very roughly.....
boxes before and after 1975
"Muguet de Bonheur" before/after 1975
-------------------------------------------------------
IN A NUTSHELL.....
check for the clues (EMB code -barcode- address on the box -list of allergens)
 -then check for the batchcode.
------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------
TUTORIAL PICS
year-by-year
-------------------------
-------------------------
YEAR 1970 

Infini, launched in 1970, batch code: 011460 = last number is "0"
This is year 1970

--------------------------------
YEAR 1973
Infini, launched in 1970, batch 032493 . Last number is "3"
It is year 1973
------------------------------
YEAR 1974
batch 013254 = year 1974
(ATTENTION: number 4 missing on the box! you could be fooled....)
------------------------------------
YEAR 1977
Fleurs de Rocaille, still without EMB code, 
batch 010707 = year 1977

Batch 010707 = year 1977

------------------------------
YEAR 1981
Yatagan, launched in 1976,  batch 3151-YTVJ-152
you have to consider the fourth number on the box
or the last on the bottle (it's the same) 
= year 1981
-------------------
YEAR 1982
Fleurs de Rocaille, EMB code on the box (since 1977)
batch "1692-RTRF-259", simply 1692 on the bottle, 

 you have to consider the fourth number. So it's year 1982

Yatagan, batch 3112 -YANG- 307
Fourth number it's 2, so it's year 1982
--------------------------
YEAR 1983
Nocturnes de Caron
batch 2273-NTNJ-348 on the box,  
simply 2273 on ther bottle 
you have to consider the fourth number = year 1983
-----------------
YEAR 1984
batch 3284 on the bottle = year 1984
Muguet du Bonheur, two rows batch 144560- 163- 4 
you have to consoider the last number; it's 4 .
So, it's year 1984

---------------------
YEAR 1985
Le 3e homme, batch 2675 on the bottle = year 1985

------------------------
YEAR 1986
batch 174300 -227 -6, no barcode, no address
 = year 1986
------------------------
YEAR 1989
batch code 1169, no barcode, no address
= year 1989

----------------------------------
YEAR 1990
batch 100620 -235 -0
without address (= before 1992)
= year 1990

Parfum Sacre Extrait,
batch 100950- 141-0  = year 1990

----------------------------------
YEAR 1991

Parfum Sacre EdP, batch 113660 135 1 = year 1991

------------------------------------
YEAR 1992:
NEW: address "Avenue Percier" on the box
---------------------------------

YEAR 1993
Fleur de Rocaille, address "Avenue Percier" (1992-1998)
batch 134138 -59-3 
(Do not confuse with the Ref number)
year 1993


batch 198670 -181 -3
= year 1993

---------------------------
YEAR 1994
Address "Avenue Percier" (1992-1998) 
batch 114290 -112 -4 
= year 1994


Le n.3 de Caron 
address "Avenue Percier" (1992-1998), batch 144820-159-4
year 1994 

-------------------------------------------------------
YEAR 1996
Address "Avenue Percier" (1992-1998)
batch 161010 -83 -6 = year 1996 


Aimez-moi, launched in 1996,
batch 165930 -161 -6  = year 1996 

---------------------------------
YEAR 1998
(NEW and RARE: address "Rue de la Boetie")
ATTENTION HERE ! Very rare address "40, Rue la Boetie"
batch 178910-71-8 = year 1998


----------------------------------------------------------------
YEAR 1999 
(NEW: address on the box: "rue du Faubourg St.Honorè")
batch  00xxx-106-9 = year 1999

Fleur de Rocaille, batch 13390-212-9 
year 1999


-------------------------
YEAR 2000
Eau pure de Caron,
batch 18700 -120 -0 = year 2000


Fleurs de Rocaille, batch 19260 .242. 0
= year 2000
---------------------------------
YEAR 2001
Fleur de Rocaille,
batch 24590-118-1 year 2001

Pour une Femme, 
batch 153 -01 -1 = year 2001

----------------------------------------
YEAR 2002
batch 25050 -012 -2   = year 2002

batch 26110- 010- 2 = year 2002


UNUSUAL Batch Code 44 B 02
short list of ingredients (= before 2005)
address "Faubourg St.Honore" (since 1999)
= year 2002

-------------------------------------
YEAR 2003
unusual 5 digits batch code:
 17 B 03 = year 2003
-------------------------------------
YEAR 2004


UNUSUAL BATCH CODE  07 B 04
short list of ingredients (=before 2005)
address "Faubourg St. Honore" (=since 1999)
= year 2004

----------------------
YEAR 2005
(NEW: long list of ingredients with allergens on the box: 
limonene, eugenol, coumarin, geraniol, etc)
"Impact pour un Homme", batch 055805
year 2005


Lady Caron, batch 56B05 = year 2005

-----------------------------
YEAR 2006
long list of ingredients (=after 2005)
batch 071346 = year 2006

Parfum Sacre, 
batch 213386 =  year 2006

Yatagan, long list of ingredients,
batch 135106 = year 2006

--------------------------------
YEAR 2007
long list of ingredients (=after 2005)
batch 009047 = year 2007

batch 011047 = year 2007


batch 104057 = year 2007
------------------------------
YEAR 2008
batch 027068 = year 2008

----------------------
YEAR 2009
L'Anarchiste, 
batch 106219 = year 2009
--------------------------
YEAR 2011
batch 402291 = year 2011

long list of ingredients (after 2005)
batch 104121=  year 2011

---------------------------------------
YEAR 2012
batch 140912 = year 2012

--------------------------
YEAR 2013
batch 402393 = year 2013

-------------------------------
YEAR 2014
batch 903454 = year 2014 

---------------------
YEAR 2015

batch 404225 = Year 2015

--------------------------------------


Just as an extra......
"Pour un Homme de Caron"
through the years.


Years 1934-1969
("Crown" logo)

Year 1973
(new round logo, without crown)

Year 1979

Years 1982-1990
(new plain label without round logo, new black cap)

Years 1995-1999


Year 2001
(new line "de Caron")

Year 2014



Raiders of the Lost Scents are very grateful to Alessandro and Gisella for this "milestone" post.



SAMSARA, the Legend.

$
0
0



Hello!
This is my first solo post at "Raiders of the Lost Scent" and the first chapter of a small bunch of fragrances that changed my life. 
I'd like to start with one of my favourite scents since I was a teen: "Samsara" by Guerlain, one of the most spectacular exhibitions of Jasmine and Sandalwood ever created: in my opinion, it's a scent near perfection, and it was an instant love.
I don't want to write a book about Samsara, since you can find huge amount of infos on the net, so this will be a sort of "pictorial review" through the years.
There are five chapters:
- 1 - Time-sheet (a sort of "order of appearance");
- 2 - "Reformulations"; 
- 3 - How to identify boxes and bottles;
- 4 - Year-by-year pictures;
- 5 - The Samsara Universe (with gift-sets and adverts)

Samsara was created immediately after "Derby", between 1985 and 1988, and launched during the autumn of 1989. It was a "boom or bust" move after the commercial failure of Nahema in 1979 and Jardins de Bagatelle in 1983 (interestingly, Nahema is considered one of the greatest Guerlain perfumes...).
Guerlain needed badly a great success, and spared no expense to achieve it: almost three years and 300 attempts for a perfect "tuning", using the best materials available, highest-grade sandalwood oils from selected woods in India, the finest jasmine and ...nearly 50 millions $ in advertising. 

At the end of 1988 everything was ready, and finally the new scent, named "Samsara" after long debates, was launched in the autumn of the following year (1989). Originally launched as a "Perfume" and "Eau de Parfum"; it was followed in 1991 by fresher, lighter "Eau de Toilette" for marketing purposes........ and the rest is history.



Chapter1:
TIME-SHEET

Autumn 1989, and during 1990: 

- "Parfum

7.5ml (0.25oz), 15ml (0.5oz), and 30ml (1oz) splash bottles (red glass bottles)  
7.5ml "purse spray" refillable bottle (red plastic case),
"Les Meteorites" bottle, 7.5 and 15 ml. (refillable Parfum)
plus: "miniatures", 2ml and 5ml.

- "Eau de Parfum" (transparent glass bottle WITH a golden ring)
75ml (2.5oz) splash bottle, 
30/50/100ml (1oz, 1.7oz, 3.3oz) spray bottles, 
50/100ml squared "refillable" bottle ("Copyright1982" golden canister),
"les Meteorites" bottle (refillable Eau de Parfum),
plus: "miniature", 7.5 ml.
("Eau de Toilette" not launched until 1991)

The EdP box, and the bottle with the golden ring 

------------------------------------------------------------------
Year 1991

- Launch of "Eau de Toilette":
30/50/100ml, splash and spray, transparent glass bottles WITHOUT golden ring on the bottle, 
93ml. cylindrical refillable EdT spray bottle ("Copyright 1982" golden canister). 
plus: EdP and EdT refillable red plastic bottle, 100ml.

The EdT box , with the bottle without the golden ring

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Year 1995
"Un Air de Samsara", EdT (flanker, discontinued)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Year 1999:NEW PACKAGING
- Complete repackaging; new EdT and EdP in red-glass bottles, with fixed, rotating caps.
-"Parfum" bottles similar to previous ones.  
- Crystal-transparent EdT and EdP bottles discontinued. 
- Splash bottles discontinued.
- New golden canisters ("Copyright 1996") for refillable bottles.
- New box and a red "cover"
- Miniatures: red bottles, 5ml.
Box on right, with "cover" on left

------------------------------------------------------
Year 2000:
- EdT and EdP (limited editions) with golden "maps" painted on the bottle. 



------------------------------------------------
Year 2001:
- Launch of Samsara "Shine" EdT (flanker, discontinued)


-----------------------------------------------
Year 2004: NEW BOXES
- New red boxes (without covers) with the new Guerlain "double G" golden logo.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Year 2007: NEW BOXES
- New red boxes with current Guerlain logo. 


------------------------------
Chapter 2:
REFORMULATIONS
-------------------------------

This is an highly debated issue! There are a lot of discussions about Samsara "reformulations"..... 
Many, many years ago Roja Dove (former Guerlain Ambassador) stated in an interview a very interesting fact: Samsara contained a very high quality sandalwood oil, obtained from 40-50 years-old trees, mixed with a certain amount of different synthetic sandalwoods in order to minimize differences from year to year and even batch-to-batch (actually, since there aren't two identical harvests, perfumes with an high amount of natural substances -such as "Samsara"- had to be reformulated continuously). 
So, when we speak about reformulations we should keep in mind that -from a strict point of view- all Samsara batches are different each other. 
The true Art of Perfumery is to minimize differences, or , in other words, "...reformulating, and smelling exactly the same."

Samsara was created as a "Parfum" and "Eau de Parfum", but during 1991, as previously said, it was launched also as an "Eau de Toilette". This because a few perfumes, launched as EdTs during previous months, achieved an huge commercial success. So, Guerlain launched a "Samsara EdT" (a lighter, fresher version) to jump on the bandwagon.... but misrepresenting the original idea. 
Since Samsara is an heavy, bold scent, perfect for the winter days "a lighter, fresher version" is a sort of degeneration. You can spot almost immediately the differences between EdP and EdT.  
EdP is creamier, thicker; EdT is greener and softer.
In my opinion, real "Samsara" is "Parfum" and "Eau de Parfum" only. The EdT could be considered a pleasant "flanker" inspired by original. 
Hence, any reformulation question should be limited to Parfum and EdP.

Well, I tested side-by-side all my Parfum and EdP bottles between 1990 and 1997, and this is the honest answer: there was no apparent reformulation during these years (1990-1997).

And, yes! I perfectly know after year 1994 many Guerlain scents changed due to new "artistic supervision" by LVMH... but Samsara performs in a sublime way (at least until 1997).

Let me be completely honest: I can detect clear differences during following years, because Samsara appears to be "sanitized", less creamy, less rich, and with a different drydown. So, if you want the real Samsara vibe, a real blast in the cold days, I strongly suggest you to search the bottles produced during the Nineties (i.e the "First Serie").
And, since I have been asked so many times: what's the difference between Parfum and Eau de Parfum?, here's the answer: 

-Parfum is darker, smokier, with more emphasis on drydown. Sandalwood is really huge here.
-Eau de Parfum is more focused on a bright opening, with an explosion of Jasmine, but with a drydown less pronounced.

If you prefer sandalwood, then go for Parfum; if you prefer Jasmine, then go for EdP. 
In both cases the effects and sensations of Samsara blooming on your skin, during cold, winter days ...is really indescribable.


--------------------------------------
Chapter 3
How to identify
BOXES and BOTTLES
---------------------------------------
-----------------------------
First Serie (1989-1999)
Transparent, clear bottles  - the concentration (Parfume, EdT or EdP) is 
written ABOVE the word "Samsara" on the box
-----------------------------

Eau de Parfum, transparent glass bottle
with a golden ring 
Eau de Toilette (since 1991) in a transparent glass bottle,
WITHOUT the golden ring

....and check for the copyright: "year 1988" 
-----------------------------------
Examples from 
First Serie (1989-1999)

Parfum, 30ml
----------------------------------------- 

 
Parfum, 7.5 ml refillable
-------------------------------------------------

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, refillable, 
with squared golden canister "Copyright 1982"
------------------------------------------------

 
Eau de Parfum,  refillable 100ml red plastic bottle

----------------------------------------------------

Eau de Parfum, 30 and 50 ml spray bottles

----------------------------------------------------

Eau de Toilette, 93ml refill 
with cylindrical golden canister "Copyright 1982"

--------------------------------------------------------

Eau de Toilette, 50ml/100ml spray

----------------------------------------------

  
Eau de Toilette 100ml splash (left), 
30 ml spray with RED cap (right)
-----------------------------------


 
DIFFERENCES in descriptions between
 Eau de Parfum (left) and Eau de Toilette (right) testers
---------------------------------

Parfum, 2ml, miniature in cardboard box
EdP, miniature 7.5 ml, in large box (left) and smaller box (right)


EdP 2ml. miniature

----------------------------------------------
Second Serie (1999-2004)
Red bottles - the concentration (EDT or EdP) is 
written BELOW the word "Samsara" on the box
----------------------------------


During 1999-2004 : red covers (left) 
put over the box (right)

...and check for the "copyright" : year 1999.
----------------------------------------------------------

Examples from 2nd serie (1999-2004):

Parfum with its cover
---------------------------------------------------



Typical Second Serie (1999-2004) 
Samsara bottle with new box and "cover".

---------------------------------------------------

Eau de Toilette, 30ml (left), 50 ml (right), with "covers".

---------------------------


EdP 100ml (left), EdT 50ml (right), without covers.

-------------------------------------------------

 
Eau de Toilette 5 ml, miniature
--------------------------------
50ml EdP Refillable
------------------------------
Third Serie (2004-2007)
box with the "double G" golden logo on the 
upper front (and no "covers")
-----------------------------

 

 


-----------------------------------
Fourth Serie (since 2007)
Plain boxes with modern Guerlain logo
------------------------------





 

  



--------------------------------
Chapter 4
Year-by-Year
for a complete Batch-numbers guide see: 
How to recognize Guerlain Perfumes
--------------------------------


1989
(6-digits batch, starting with D)
Parfum, 30ml, batch "DL"

Parfum, 7.5ml refillable without its plastic case
(batch "DE")

Eau de Parfum, 75ml / 2.5oz Splash
-----------------------
1990
(6-digits batch code, starting with M)

Eau de Parfum, 100ml refillable spray, batch "MC"

Eau de Parfum, 7.5 ml miniature, batch "MB"


Eau de Parfum, 75 ml splash, batch "MR"

EdP 50ml spray, 6-digits batch "MH" = year 1990

Edp, 30ml spray, batch ML
------------------------
1991
(6-digits batch code starting with U)

EdP 100ml refillable, batch "UA"


EdP, 50 ml spray, batch "UK"

Parfum, 30 ml, batch "UH"

Eau de Toilette, 100ml spray, batch "UB"

EdP, 7.5ml miniature

EdP, 50ml spray, batch "UR"
-------------------
1992
(6-digits batch, starting with Z)
Eau de Parfum, 50ml spray, batch "ZC" 

Eau de Parfum, 50ml spray, batch "ZE"

-----------------------
1993
(6-digits batch, starting with J)
  
Eau de Parfum, 30ml spray, batch "JT"


Eau de Toilette, 50ml spray, batch "JX"

EdP, 7.5ml miniature, batch "JK"

-------------------
1994
(6-digits batch, starting with Y)
Parfum, 7.5ml, batch "YF"
"Le Meteorites", 7.5ml Parfum Spray Refillable, batch "YF" 

93ml  EdT Refillable, batch YH

------------------
1995
(5 or 6 digits batch codes, starting with W)
Launch of "Un Air de Samsara", EdT.
"Un Air de Samsara", 50 ml, spray


Eau de Parfum, 30ml spray, 6-digits batch "WH"

------------
1996
(5-digits batch, starting with P)
Eau de Toilette, 30ml spray, 5-digits batch "PC"


Eau de Toilette, 50 ml spray, batch "PB"
93 ml refillable EdT, batch "PB"
Eau de Toilette, 7.5ml miniature, batch "PL"

---------------------------
1997
(5-digits batch, starting with S)
Eau de Toilette, 50ml spray, batch "SC"

------------------------------------------------
1998
(5-digits batch, starting with V)
Eau de Toilette, 100ml spray, TESTER  
-------------------------------
1999 : NEW PACKAGING
red bottles, fixed caps, box with "cover"
EdP: golden cap - EdT: red cap
(5-digits batch codes starting with D)

NEW EdP: red bottle, golden cap, box and "cover"


NEW EdT : red bottle, red cap, box and cover

Notice "Copyight Guerlain 1999" on the box


Eau de Toilette, 93ml, refillable, batch DL
Eau de Parfum, 30ml spray, batch "DN"
EdP, 50 ml spray, batch DK2ME (on the cover) 
----------------------
2000
(5-digits batch starting with "M")
Eau de Toilette, 50 ml spray, batch "MC"
Eau de Toilette, 93 ml refillable, batch MK
Parfum, 15ml, batch "ME"
---------------------------
2001
(5-digits batch, starting with U)
Eau de Toilette, 100 ml
Samsara Shine, EdT, 30ml

-------------------------------
since 2002
(4-digits batch codes, first number is the year)


Eau de toilette, 50ml, batch 2H03 = year 2002

EdP, 50ml, batch 6F01 = year 2006


-------------------------------------------------------------
Recent bottles, since 2007

Year 2007, batch 7G01,  new  cubic "Parfum" bottle

30 ml, year 2008
100ml, EdP, Year 2010
100ml, EdT, year 2010 

100 ml, EdP, year 2013

30ml, EdP, year 2013




---------------------------------

Chapter 5
The Samsara Universe

---------------------------------
Very rare Parfum Spray 30ml (tester)

-----------------------------------------------

 
15ml x4 EdT Purse Spray, in plastic case, year 2002
--------------------------------------------

Samsara "Les Meteorites", Parfum Spray Refillable
"Les Meteorites", Eau de Parfum Spray Refillable
"Les Meteorites", Eau de Parfum Spray Refillable
-----------------------


100g. Talc
-------------------------------------------

"Duet of Luxury" limited edition
(Samsara EdP plus Shalimar PdT, both 7.5ml)
--------------------------------------

 
2ml sample vial

--------------------------------------------------

Body Creme
------------------------------------------------------------------
Perfumed Deodorant
------------------------------------------------------

Factices
----------------------------------------------

Soaps (3x box)
-------------------------------------------------------------------


Soap (single)
-------------------------------------------------

1ml. EdT sample vial in plastic case
-------------------------------------

1 ml EdP sample vial in plastic case 
---------------------------------------------------

2 ml Parfum + minibook, year 1991
--------------------------------------
Eau de Parfum, limited edition, year 2000 
(in this picture with its cover)
------------------------------------

Eau de toilette, limited edition, year 2000 
(in this picture with box but without its cover)
----------------------------------------

5ml mini, year 2000
----------------------------------
Samsara Shine Purse Spray, year 2001
------------------------------------------

Pin
----------------------------------------------------------------------------


     
Samsara Limited Edition set:
30ml EdT, 15ml EdP, 7.5ml Parfum, 2ml Parfum
-------------------------------------

Samsara package

------------------------------------------

Bath Crystals

------------------------------------------

 
Bath oil (left) and Body Lotion (right)

---------------------------------------------------------


Samsara Sensual Spirit, roll-on eau de toilette, year 2001
-----------------------------------------------

Samsara Refreshing Perfume Dew, year 2001


---------------------------------------
Gift Sets/Coffrets
----------------------------------------

Mother's day, 1990
------------------------------------------------------


"The Samsara Book" + 2ml Parfum, Christmas 1991

-------------------------------


Coffret from Nineties

---------------------------------------------------------


Coffret from Nineties

--------------------------------------------------------


Coffret from Nineties

------------------------------------------------------


Coffret from Nineties
------------------------------------------------------------


Coffret from Nineties

---------------------------------


 
Christmas 1993: two mini-coffrets with miniatures

---------------------------------------------------

Coffret year 1994
-------------------------------------------------------


Coffret year 1995

---------------------------------------------------------------

 
Christmas 1995 : "Reve pour l'Hiver" 
(Un Air de Samsara)

----------------------------------------------------

 
Coffret from 2000s

------------------------------------------------------------

 
Samsara 4x 15ml Purse Spray, year 2002

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s
-----------------------------------------------------------
Coffret from 2000s
----------------------------------------------------------------------


Coffret from 2000s

-----------------------------------------------------------



Coffret from 2000s
-----------------------------------------------


Coffret from 2000s
--------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s
-----------------------------------------------
Coffret from 2000s
--------------------------------------------------------

Christmas 2006
-------------------------------------------

Christmas 2009

---------------------------------
Advertising
---------------------------------



















----------------------------------------
"Colophon"



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

J'Adore by Dior (EdP reformulation, 2016).

$
0
0


Probably you have already heard the buzz: J'adore EdP was reformulated again in the autumn of 2016.
I would not want to say if it's for better (or worse), this time I wanted to check it according to the "fragrance formula trick" explained by Alberto Converano some time ago (here the original article) ...and I have to agree with, since I can smell a certain difference, and read a different "formula" at the same time.

Not enough, the packaging changed too, so it's quite easy to identify new and old formulations (at least with the EdP).
This is an useful trick when you suspect a reformulation in your favorite scent. Personally I suggest to check the "formula" written on the box regularly, at least with those brands using it (Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Lancome...)
(REMEMBER: a change in formula does NOT automatically means there is a change in aroma)
(the "formula" is the number written
on the box at the end of the list)

-----------------------------------

J'adore EdP (1999)
- before year 2005: without allergens, with formula "20426A"
- year 2005: formula 00741/A
- year 2008: formula 01905/A
- year 2011: formula 06671/A
- year 2013: formula 08713/A
- year 2016: formula 11057/A

J'adore EdP, year 2002 (without allergens)
formula 20426 A

J'adore EdP, year 2005 (with allergens)
formula 00741/A

J'adore EdP, year 2008, formula 01905/A

J'adore EdP, year 2013, formula 06671/A

J'adore EdP, year 2016, formula 11057/A



old and new box (since 2016)

---------------------------

J'adore EdT (2002)
 - since year 2014: formula 10044/A


J'adore EdT , since 2014: formula 10044/A
---------------------

J'adore L'Absolu (2007)
- since year 2012: formula 08716/A

J'adore L'Or Essence de Parfum (2012)
- year 2012: formula 08842/A

J'adore Voile de Parfum (2013)
- year 2013: formula 07354/A


---------------------------------
     

(before 2008: "Christian Dior" inside a purple oval;
after 2008, "Dior" in a golden oval)
------------------------------------------

"Cinescent" by Gabriela Guidetti (December 2016)

$
0
0


Fundamental – Rubini (2015) 
vs
 Ex_Machina - Alex Garland (2015) 


Caleb: So what? You want me to talk about myself?
Ava: Yes.
Caleb: Where... Okay, where do I start?
Ava: It's your decision. I'm interested to see what you'll choose.
(tratto da Ex Machina, 2015)

Nel 2015 sono sbocciate due magnifiche creature che per caso o fortuna sembrano legate dallo stesso inarrestabile destino. Fundamental, la prima fragranza della maison Rubini, e Ava, la protagonista del primo film diretto da Alex Garland, lo sceneggiatore preferito da Danny Boyle.
Ed entrambe hanno fatto parlare di sé.

Ava è intelligenza artificiale racchiusa in un corpo dalle forme femminili dove la trasparenza luminosa si fonde alla pelle sintetica. Il suo creatore, Nathan, un ricchissimo ex enfant prodige dell'informatica, invita il suo giovane collaboratore Caleb nella sua casa/laboratorio con l'incarico di  sottoporre Ava al test di Turing per verificare se la I.A. ha coscienza di sé. In un crescendo di tensione nei rapporti tra i tre Ava si trasforma nell'inesplicabile e destabilizzante Deux ex machina che interviene nella storia per cambiare per sempre il corso degli eventi. Raffinatissimo e algido thriller dalle sfumature sci-fi, Ex-Machina è una produzione indipendente che si è portato a casa un Oscar per gli effetti speciali e una nomination per la sceneggiatura di Alex Garland più una lista infinita di premi e candidature in giro per il mondo, grazie anche a uno straordinario cast di attori non più solo promettenti come Oscar Isaac, Domhnall Gleeson e Alicia Vikander, fresca di Oscar per The Danish Girl. Una delle sorprese della stagione 2015, Ex Machina è il film che non ti aspetti.

Come Fundamental di Rubini.
Marchio giovanissimo, ma con una lunga tradizione alle spalle nell'ambito della profumeria commerciale, Rubini nel 2015 esordisce con il suo primo profumo, Fundamental, fragranza voluta, pensata, realizzata e rivestita da giovani creatori italiani non più solo promettenti come Andrea Bissoli Rubini, Ermano Picco, Cristiano Canali e Francesca Gotti. Fundamental è un omaggio alle tradizioni e, soprattutto, alle fondamenta profumate della famiglia Rubini inserite in una capsula del tempo e proiettate nel futuro lontano. L'anima di Fundamental ha la luminosità di agrumi rinfrescanti che si sciolgono nel cuore aromatico e talcato per fondersi nella raffinatezza calda e vellutata dei legni e del cuoio. Memorie di altri tempi, di polvere, belletti e palcoscenici, di luci dorate e lunghi sospiri che si riflettono nell'involucro di candida glebanite, materiale innovativo, riciclato ed eco-sostenibile che protegge il cuore trasparente e prezioso del profumo. E simile a specchio semiriflettente, la glebanite se per un verso accoglie queste fondamenta avite, dall'altro le riflette verso una dimensione imprevedibile, quasi avveniristica.

Come il guscio hi-tech che protegge l'anima di Ava. Sotto la sua pelle trasparente fluidi luminosi pulsano e riproducono il battito cardiaco di un'entità che sta germogliando. Lo sguardo di Ava solletica e intriga, ammalia e inganna, specchio di una vita/non vita imbevuta dell'energia luminosa della creazione. L'apertura di Fundamental sancisce questa genesi con frizzanti accordi di note esperidate. Mano a mano che il racconto procede, Ava prende sempre più consapevolezza della sua esistenza. Ma forse nei meandri della sua coscienza Ava ne era stata sempre conscia. L'incontro con un umano diverso dal suo creatore fa emergere e concretizza la sua aspirazione di libertà. Note succose cavalcano le correnti di aria balsamica che danzano nella natura incontaminata intorno alla casa bunker mentre il cuore di Fundamental si scalda delle profonde e sensuali sfumature del polveroso iris fiorentino. Ormai Ava non ha più ostacoli sul suo cammino. Non è più solo intelligenza artificiale astratta, ma un individuo di sesso femminile. Il guscio trasparente lascia il posto alla morbidezza della pelle sintetica simile all'epidermide umana, di cui Ava si riveste con cura. Mentre Ava chiude la porta alle sue spalle e attraversa la natura lussureggiante che circonda il luogo che ha visto la sua nascita, Fundamental accoglie le note di cuore in un fondo di legni aromatici scaldati dal cuoio. La scia intensa e sensuale della fragranza avvolge l'anima di Ava come un secondo involucro che non ha più nulla di tecnologico, ma che ne esalta il suo stato di creatura viva, reale, pronta ad affrontare il mondo nuovo.
Elegantissimo e persistente, Fundamental è una produzione profumiera indipendente di nicchia che  ha ottenuto un immediato successo di critica e pubblico. Una delle sorprese della stagione 2015, la creazione di Rubini è la fragranza che non ti aspetti.
Come Ex Machina di Alex Garland …..



Fundamental - Rubini 2015
Eau de Parfum
Naso:  Cristiano Canali in collaborazione con Ermano Picco
Packaging disegnato da Francesca Gotti
Famiglia: Legnoso aromatico
Piramide Olfattiva:
Note di testa: Bergamotto di Calabria, mandarino, sensuali fiori di esperidi.
Note di cuore:Uva Soave, sentori di macchia, iris fiorentina, cera d’api
Note di fondo: Legno di cedro dell’Atlas, sandalo indiano, vetiver Java, accordo velluto, cuoio
sito http://www.rubiniprofumi.com/

Ex Machina – Alex Garland 2015
Cast: Domhnall Gleeson: Caleb Smith; Alicia Vikander: Ava; Oscar Isaac: Nathan Bateman
Sceneggiatura originale di Alex Garland
Effetti speciali:Andrew Whitehurst, Paul Norris, Mark Ardington, Sara Bennett


------------------------(english)------------------------

Fundamental – Rubini 2015
 vs
 Ex_Machina - Alex Garland 2015 


Caleb: So what? You want me to talk about myself?
Ava: Yes.
Caleb: Where... Okay, where do I start?
Ava: It's your decision. I'm interested to see what you'll choose. 
(from Ex Machina, 2015)

In 2015 two magnificent creatures have blossomed and accidentally (or incidentally) they seem linked by the same unstoppable fate: Fundamental, the first fragrance of brand Rubini, and Ava, the protagonist of the first film directed by Alex Garland, Danny Boyle's preferred writer.
And both made a name for themselves.
Ava is an artificial intelligence enclosed in a female form body where the luminous transparency blends with synthetic leather. Its creator, Nathan, a rich ex-enfant prodige computer genius, invites his young collaborator Caleb in his house/lab with the task of running Turing test on Ava to verify if her I.A. has a self-consciousness. In an escalation of tension in the relationships between the three protagonists, Ava turns in the inexplicable and destabilizing Deux ex machina who intervenes in the story to change forever the course of events. Refined and cold thriller with sci-fi shades, Ex-Machina is an independent production that took home an Oscar prize for special effects and a nomination for the screenplay by Alex Garland, as well as an endless list of awards and nominations around the world, also thanks to an extraordinary cast of actors not only promising as Oscar Isaac, Domhnall Gleeson and Alicia Vikander, who just won the Oscar prize for The Danish Girl. One of the surprises of the season 2015, Ex Machina is the movie you do not expect.
As Fundamental by Rubini.
A new, young brand, but with a long tradition in commercial perfumery, Rubini debuted in 2015 with its first fragrance, Fundamental; a fragrance wanted, designed, realized and upholstered by young Italian creators like Andrea Bissoli Rubini, Ermano Picco, Cristiano Canali and Francesca Gotti. Fundamental is a tribute to the traditions and, above all, to the fragrant foundations of the Rubini family, inserted in a time capsule and launched into the distant future. The soul of Fundamental has the brightness of refreshing citrus that melt in the aromatic and powdered heart to blend in the warm and velvety refinement of woods and leather. Memories of the past, dust, cosmetics and stages, memories of golden lights and long sighs that are reflected in the shell made by white glebanite, an innovative, recycled and eco-sustainable material, protecting the transparent and precious heart of the perfume. And similar to a semi-reflecting mirror, while on the one hand glebanite supports these ancestral foundations, on the other it reflects them toward an unpredictable dimension, almost futuristic.
As the hi-tech shell that protects the soul of Ava. Under her transparent skin light fluids pulsate and reproduce the heartbeat of a sprouting entity. The look of Ava tickles and intrigues, fascinates and deceives, as mirror of a life / non-life soaked of the light energy of the creation. 
The opening of Fundamental marks this genesis with sparkling accords of citrus notes. As the story unfolds, Ava takes more and more aware of its/her existence. But maybe deep down inside Ava realized this. The encounter with a human different by its/her creator brings out and actualise its/her aspiration to freedom. Juicy notes ride the currents of balmy air dancing in the unspoilt nature around the bunker house while the heart of Fundamental warms with the deep and sensual shades of dusty Florentine iris. Ava has now no more obstacles in the path. No longer just abstract artificial intelligence, but a female individual. The transparent shell gives way to the softness of synthetic flesh like human skin, which Ava carefully clothes herself with. While Ava closes the door behind her and runs through the lush nature surrounding the place that saw her birth, Fundamental embraces the heart notes in a base of aromatic woods warmed by leather. The intense and sensual sillage of the fragrance envelops the soul of Ava as a no more technological second case, enhancing her status of living creature, real, ready to face  a new world.
Elegant and persistent, Fundamental is an independent perfumer niche production that got an critical and commercial success. One of the surprises of the season in 2015, the creation of Rubini is the fragrance that you do not expect.
As Ex Machina by Alex Garland ... ..



Fundamental - Rubini 2015
Eau de Parfum
Nose: Cristiano Canali in collaboration with Ermano Picco
Packaging designed by Francesca Gotti
Family: Woody Aromatic
Olfactory Pyramid:
Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, mandarin, sensual citrus flowers.
Heart notes: Grape Soave, scrubland scents, Florentine iris, beeswax
Base notes: Atlas Cedar wood, Indian sandalwood, vetiver Java, velvet accord, Leather
site http://www.rubiniprofumi.com/

Ex Machina - Alex Garland 2015
Cast: Domhnall Gleeson: Caleb Smith; Alicia Vikander: Ava; Oscar Isaac Nathan Bateman
Screenplay by Alex Garland
Special Effects: Andrew Whitehurst, Paul Norris, Mark Ardington, Sara Bennett





Cinescent by Gabriela Guidetti : Resina, by Oliver&Co. Perfumes (February 2017)

$
0
0
 

Resina - Oliver & Co.Perfumes (2012) 
VS 
The Secret in Their Eyes (El secreto de sus ojos) - Juan José Campanella (2009)

Irene: Va a ser complicado.
Benjamin: No me importa.
Irene: Cerrá la puerta.
(From The Secret in Their Eyes - El secreto de sus ojos, 2009)

Oliver Valverde is a young Nose, self-taught, and challenge-lover. He was used since childhood to admire, study and process a lot of raw materials (natural and synthetic) with one goal: trying to create new olfactory worlds. In Oliver's vocabulary the word "tradition" simply does not exist, because he is convinced that only a research with no parameters or olfactory pyramids can create something of exceptional and original.
So, this is the concept giving rise to his first production: "Illustrated Series" (2012), consisting of seven fragrances whose only connection is an abstract processing of various ingredients with the ultimate aim of giving them an innovative identity. Intersection of smells and textures that floors and gives life to something amazing, something unexpected.
Similarly to the plot of The Secret in Their Eyes - El secreto de sus ojos,  a masterpiece by Argentine director Juan José Campanella, who won the Oscar for Best Foreign Movie in the following year. Could this movie be defined as a thriller? Or a political  movie? Or maybe romantic? Perhaps a drama about revenge and atonement? Probably The Secret of his eyes is all these things.

During the Seventies an agent, helped by a young lady, the new Chancellor of the Public Prosecutor's office, investigates a terrible crime, but the long shadow of political corruption prevents him from delivering the real killer to justice. After twenty years the protagonists found themselves dealing again with the crime and with an ever understood and never exhibited love. In the flow of time, love and hate never disappeared, but went up to the unexpected and devastating ending. Engaging, action-packed and dramatic, the plot unfolds between different perspectives apparently antithetical and unethical. In the end the work of Campanella left a deep and touching tribute to love, that causes and justifies everything. In the words of the great poet Dante Alighieri: Love, that exempts no one beloved from loving. 
The same love that we find in Oliver's creations, a fragrant feeling that joins the scented levels of his complex and unexpected fragrances. Like Resina, in which a wave of golden resins envelops and lites up the other notes composing the scent. And since the opening of the perfume these deep notes emerge, even if usually they accompany the base, excited by balsamic notes of cold and warm spices. The white jasmine and the essence of the Australian fire tree oil refine the evolution of the fragrance that slowly softens in star anise and tonka beans notes. But the spiral of resins doesn't cease to vibrate. Benzoin, elemi, frankincense, labdanum, myrrh, opoponax and tolu balsam is an underground river that connects all the fragrance from beginning to the end without obeyig the rules that would like to put these raw materials in the base of the olfactory pyramid. Yet although Resina, as all the other fragrances created by Oliver, does not have a traditional composition and may sound a blend not fitted into one fragrance family, the result is amazing. As Resina evolves it envelops the skin and promises a comfortable olfactory cohabitation. Soft and warm, aromatic and sweet, the scent turns into an exciting embrace that warms the heart. Like love that after so many years of waiting a woman and a man finally make bloom in the secret of their eyes.




Resina - Oliver & Co Perfumes 2012
Eau de Parfum
Nose: Oliver Valverde
Family: Aromatic
The scent includes notes of benzoin, coffee extract, elemi resin, fir, fire tree, frankincense, fresh, ginger, jasmine sambac, labdanum, myrrh, nutmeg, opoponax, rooibos tincture, star anise, tolu balsam, tonka bean
website : www.oliverandcoperfumes.com/


El secreto de sus ojos - Juan José Campanella 2009
Starring: Ricardo Darin Benjamín Esposito; Soledad Villamil: Irene Menéndez Hastings; Pablo Rago: Ricardo Morales; Javier Godino: Isidoro Gómez
Screenplay by Eduardo Sacheri and Juan Jose Campanella
Oscar winner in 2010 for best foreign film



-----(italian)------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Irene: Va a ser complicado.
Benjamín: No me importa.
Irene: Cerrá la puerta.
(Tratto da Il Segreto dei suoi occhi - El secreto de sus ojos, 2009)

Oliver Valverde è un giovane naso, autodidatta e amante delle sfide, abituato fin da ragazzo ad ammirare, studiare e lavorare le materie prime, naturali e sintetiche, con un unico obiettivo: provare a creare mondi olfattivi nuovi. Nel vocabolario di Oliver manca la parola tradizione, perché egli è convinto che solo della ricerca libera da parametri o piramidi olfattive può nascere qualcosa di eccezionale e originale. 
E da questo concetto nasce nel 2012 la sua prima produzione: Illustrated Series, composto da sette fragranze che hanno come unico elemento comune l'elaborazione astratta di ingredienti diversi con il fine ultimo di dare loro un'inedita identità.
Intreccio di odori e di consistenze che spiazzano e danno vita a qualcosa di stupefacente, qualcosa che non ti aspetti.
Come l'intreccio di Il Segreto dei suoi occhi, capolavoro argentino del 2009, diretto da Juan Josè Campanella che si è portato a casa l'Oscar per il film straniero nell'anno successivo. Si può definire questa pellicola un thriller? O un film politico? O forse un film d'amore? Magari un film drammatico sulla vendetta e l'espiazione? Probabilmente Il Segreto dei suoi occhi è tutto questo.  
Negli anni settanta un agente, aiutato dalla nuova cancelliera della procura, indaga su un terribile delitto, ma l'ombra lunga della corruzione e della politica gli impedisce di consegnare il vero colpevole alla giustizia. Dopo vent'anni i protagonisti di quella vicenda si ritrovano di nuovo a fare i conti con quel delitto e con un amore sempre sottinteso e mai esibito. Nel flusso del tempo che passa i sentimenti di amore e di odio non si affievoliscono, ma si amplificano, fino al sorprendente e straziante epilogo. Avvincente, ricca di azione e drammatica, la trama si dipana tra piani di lettura apparentemente antitetici e antietici. Alla fine quello che resta dell'opera di Campanella è un profondo ed emozionante omaggio all'amore che tutto causa e che tutto giustifica. Con le parole del sommo poeta Amor, ch'a nullo amato amar perdona.
Lo stesso amore che si trova nelle creazioni di Oliver, un sentimento profumato che unisce i piani odorosi delle sue fragranze complesse e inaspettate. Come in Resina, in cui un'onda di resine dorate avvolgono e illuminano le altre note che compongono il profumo. E fin dall'apertura della fragranza questi accordi profondi che normalmente accompagnano le note di fondo di un profumo emergono, eccitati da note balsamiche e da spezie fredde e calde. Il candido gelsomino e l'essenza dell'olio di albero del fuoco australiano ingentiliscono l'evolversi della fragranza che lentamente si addolcisce nelle note di anice stellato e fave tonka. Ma la spirale di resine non cessa di pulsare. Benzoino, elemi, incenso, labdano, mirra, opoponax e balsamo di tolu sono un fiume sotterraneo che lega tutta la fragranza dall'inizio alla fine senza ubbidire alle regole che vorrebbero queste materie profumate fissate nel fondo della piramide olfattiva. Eppure anche se Resina, come tutte le altre fragranze create da Oliver, non ha una scrittura tradizionale e può sembrare un blend apparentemente non incasellabile in una unica famiglia olfattiva, il risultato è sorprendente. Mano a mano che si evolve Resina avvolge la pelle e promette una convivenza olfattiva confortevole. Morbido e caldo, aromatico e soave, il profumo si trasforma in un abbraccio emozionante che riscalda cuore. Come l'amore che dopo tanti anni di attesa una donna e un uomo riusciranno finalmente a far sbocciare nel segreto dei loro occhi.

Resina – Oliver & Co Perfumes 2012
Eau de Parfum
Naso:  Oliver Valverde
Famiglia: Aromatico
Il profumo comprende le note di abete, albero del fuoco, anice stellato, balsamo di tolu, benzoino, estratto di caffè, fave tonka, incenso, gelsomino sambac, labdano, mirra, noce moscata, opopnax, elemi, tintura di rooibos, zenzero fresco.
sito www.oliverandcoperfumes.com/

El secreto de sus ojos – Juan José Campanella 2009
Cast: Ricardo Darín: Benjamín Esposito; Soledad Villamil: Irene Menéndez Hastings; Pablo Rago: Ricardo Morales; Javier Godino: Isidoro Gómez
Sceneggiatura di Eduardo Sacheri e Juan José Campanella
Premio Oscar 2010 per il miglior film straniero





HABANITA de Molinard: yesterday and today. A "side-by-side" review.

$
0
0




"Imagine to walk in an oriental spice bazaar, with a bunch of exotic flowers in your hands, and a leather factory on your left, and a tobacco manufacture on your right....and suddenly a cloud of talc powder comes down to surround you. This is Habanita."
This is a good description of one of the most legendary perfumes in history: Habanita de Molinard.
You will find spices, tobacco, leather, flowers, talc powder, blended all together. It seems Habanita has been fulfilled with almost every ingredient used in perfumery. Actually, according Molinard, Habanita contains more than 600 (!) ingredients.
Apparently, according to tradition, Habanita could stay in the group of those perfumes called "feminine but masculine": Tabac Blond de Caron, Bandit de Robert Piguet, Cabochard by Grès, Jolie Madame by Balmain. But, in my opinion, Habanita is more similar to another lost gem from the past: Tabu by Dana. However, if you know and appreciate any of these perfumes, you will feel comfortable with Habanita.  In addition, sporting a strong tobacco/spice/leather core, Habanita could fit perfectly for men, too. Be careful, Habanita stands on its own feet and it's immediately recognizable. You can't be wrong: when you smell it, you immediately say: this is Habanita. 
As usual, you can read tons of review about Habanita on the web, so we'll leave floor to a few of highly estimated reviewers (listed at the end of this article).
Hanbanita is in production since 1921 and was probably reformulated several times. Good ol' friend Gianni Ambrosio, the now-retired retailer from Milan, generously borrowed me a couple of vintage EdT bottles from his collection, plus the modern EdP version on sale today, for a comparative review. Laura added a small sample of her precious older vintage. So I was able to perform a really comprehensive review. 
How does vintage Habanita de Molinard perform in front of the modern one? Firstly, we have to learn something about different versions, bottles and packages used during last decades. 
So, let's go and see!
Since 1980 Habanita changed four boxes and bottles, and each time *apparently* underwent a reformulation (we are considering the scent produced since the 1980s and tested here, but there are other versions, not tested in this review).


 Briefly:
1) Transparent bottle with "syllables" on the front (i.e. HA/ BA/ NI/ TA) (produced from 1980 until 1988)
2) Lalique-type "squared" bottle (produced from 1988 until 2005)
3) Lalique-type "tall" or "Anniversary" bottle (produced from 2005 until 2012)
4) Modern bottle (EdP only, in production since 2012)

Pictures:
1) Transparent bottle with "syllables" on the front 
(i.e. HA/ BA/ NI/ TA) (from 1980 until 1988)
From 1980 until 1988:
  transparent bottle with "syllables" 
(HA-BA-NI-TA) 
EdT box and bottle (1980-1988)
Year 1983 advertisement

--------------------------------------
--------------------------------------
2) Lalique-type "squared" bottle 
(from 1988 until 2005)
Year 1988 advertisement

Year 1991 advertisement

year 1997 advertisement

Lalique-type "squared" black bottle.
Without barcode: before 1990
Barcode without Greendot = between 1990 and 1992
With Barcode and Greendot: after 1992. 

---------------------------------------
---------------------------------------
3) Lalique-type "tall" or "Anniversary" bottle 
 (from 2005 until 2012)
From 2006 until 2012.
Lalique-type "Tall"/"Anniversary" black bottle

Year 2006 ad

(When you read the long list of ingredients 
on the box it means "produced after 2005")
-------------------------------------
-------------------------------------
4) Modern bottle 
(since 2012)
HABANITA-by-Molinard-Eau-De-Parfum-Spray-New-Version-2-5-oz
Modern (EdP only) bottle, since year 2012


Sleek and Chic - the new Habanita Eau de Parfum
Advertisement year 2012

--------------------------
Materials 
and Methods

All tests were made side-by-side, inside a clean, no-windows, odorless room, at the same temperature: 20°C / 70 F.
Due to tiny amount, the "syllable"-bottle sample (the older one) was tested on paper and on skin only.
All other three versions were tested on paper, on skin, and sprayed on clothes.  Three samples are EdTs, the fourth (the modern one) is an EdP.
The four different samples tested on paper
(from 1980 bottle to the 2012 one)

The two "Lalique-type" EdT bottles
during the test "on clothes"


------------------------
RESULTS
First thing to say: there is not a version that is exactly identical to others. All four versions appeared distinct and somewhat different. This could mean a reformulation actually happened with every "edition" launched during decades. But, at the same time, Habanita is immediately recognizable in all four version. It's still Habanita, no doubt. It's the same DNA.
A pleasant news is that there isn't any version watered-down or weakened. All four versions are very strong on paper and on skin. There are great sillages and great longevities: on your skin, Habanita stay for at least 12 hours; on paper, you can easily smell it after 4-5 days. Even more, if sprayed on your clothes. 
This is a good news since you can suspect - as usually happens- that modern versions are weaker than older ones. In this case, this isn't true. Even the recent formulation (year 2012, labelled as "EdP") is very strong, and "on par" with vintage ones. 
Differences are rather in formulas. Briefly:
1) The older bottle (the "HA/ BA/ NI/ TA" one, 1980-1988) smells almost as pure leather + tobacco + vanilla + lot of powder. Very "rich" and "decadent", it reminds ladies smoking in Jazz clubs during 1930-1940s..... A bit dated, anyway, I like such perfumes very much.
2) The Lalique-type "squared" bottle (1988-2005) appear to be more modern, with more balanced ingredients. There isn't any note prevailing over others, the blend is equilibrate. Very suitable for men, actually, it is an unisex scent. Perfect mixture between "female" and "male" aspects. This version is probably preferred by those seeking for an "ideal" blend.
3) The Lalique Type "tall"/"Anniversary" bottle (2005-2012) is similar to the previous one, but notes are more pronounced. While the previous version aims to balance and soften all notes, this one tends to "unbalance". Vanilla, leather and powder emerge fiercely from the bunch. This version is probably preferred by those wanting a stronger, more decise, and tougher scent.
4) The modern EdP bottle (since 2012) is probably the more feminine of all versions. A strong floral note appear, and accompanies other notes, during the entire evolution. The best choice if you want Habanita as a proper "female scent".


---------------------
FINAL WORD 
Put it simply: Habanita was reformulated in all its editions. 
The most pleasant fact however is that Habanita has not been ruined by any reformulation. All versions are very strong with great longevity and sillage, and retain the Habanita inner core.
However, all four versions tested are not identical to each other. For example, the modern version (since 2012), thanks to its pronounced floral vibe, can be considered "a female scent" much more than previous ones. 
On the contrary, the two Lalique-type bottle are pretty "unisex" and fits for men, too.  
And the first version tested ("HA/ BA/ NI/ TA") pleasantly smells even as an "old auntie" perfume. 
You can't ask "what's the best?", since they all appear as "variations on a theme". 
So, the last choice is up to you.

-----------------------------------
Miscellaneous

"Lalique-type" (1987-2000s)
25ml spray bottle
"Lalique-type" (1987-2000s)
25ml spray bottle




-----------------------------------


The two old "Lalique-type" 
bottles in details



















The olfactive pyramid according to Molinard (2012)


-------------------------------
An OLDER BOTTLE
We considered the 1980s "syllable" bottle as the first. 
Actually, during the Seventies there was another 
older bottle, not tested in this review
the "Black Sticker" one. Here it is:
Black sticker bottle (1970s)


"Diamant" bottle by Baccarat, circa 1970

Black Sticker EdC (1970s)

Year 1975 advertisement


--------------------------------------
....and many, many older bottles from 1921 to 1960.
(Images provided by readers)
1930s Molinard Habanita perfume bottle and stopper, clear glass, molded and paper labels, box. 4 1/2 in.:



Mint in box Molinard "Habanita" Baccarat sealed 1/2 ounce french vintage perfume | eBay:

-----------------------------
Interested in Habanita
Read here...


-----------------------------------------------



A letter from an ex-Guerlain employee

$
0
0
A very important number:
the Formula.


On October, 2017, I received this letter about "reformulations", via a common friend. It is incredibly interesting and deserves the publication. It could be of some interest for all Guerlain enthusiasts. Anyway, it's really intriguing.
Sincerely yours,
Laura Alessi 

(translated from french)

"Madame, 
I read the articles written by your group, about the reformulations occurred in many perfumes: since I worked at Guerlain for a few years, I could give my contribution and suggest you a little trick. You don't need to collect and examine samples, batch-by-batch, and smell many stripes to determine if a reformualation occurred. It's quite time-consuming and in most cases, not really useful.  
There is a faster and more effective way to determine if a reformulation occurred. As you should know, all cosmetics since year 2003-2004 have to indicate the "allergens list" on the box. 
Since then, all LVMH perfumes (Guerlain, Dior, etc...) indicates the allergens, in conjunction with a particular progressive number evidencing the formula of each product. So, you will read different numbers for aftershaves, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, etc. 
Each number = a "recipe". 
So,when a reformulation occurs, the "recipe" changes, and you will read a different number. 
Collecting several boxes through the years, you will read different numbers ...and consequently you can spot on the reformulations.
There is no reason to smell several samples to guess if a change happened or not: simply look at the number on the box.
At Guerlain, the biggest part of reformulations happened since 2007. Please note this doesn't mean the new formulations are worse or better than the older. We at Guerlain were very strict on quality, and we put every attention in reformulations, I can guarantee it to you. You couldn't even notice any difference. Simply, check out the Formula on the corner of the box, and you will notice all reformulations. 

Since the numbers are in progressive order, with some experience you will be able to obtain all the infos you want, simply reading the batch code (year of production) and the formula. and guessing the date/type of reformulation of your own bottle"




Very, *very* roughly, these are the numbers:
between 0 and 2999 : years 2003-2006
between 3000 and 5999: year 2007-2010
between 6000 and 7999: years 2011-2014
between 8000 and 11000 : years 2015 - 2017.



Example of the "Formulas": Shalimar, bottles from year 2005.
EdP (922M), and EdT (915M)

Don't consider letters after the number.






Here, a few Formulas: 
a few numbers could be missing
(don't consider any letter after any number)
--------------------------------------------
Apres l'Ondee
before 2007 : ???
reformulated in 2007:    03637M (EdT)

Apres l'Ondee, EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 03637M


----------------------------------------
Chamade
before 2007:    904M (EdT), xxx (EdP)
reformulated in 2007: 03679M (EdP only)
reformulated in 2010:  5623M (Parfum)
reformulated in 2015: 09590M (EdT)
Chamade EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2005),
formula 904M 


Chamade EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2007), 
formula 03679M


Chamade Parfum (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 05623M

Chamade EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 9590M


-----------------------------------
Champs Elysees
reformulated in 2007:  3696M (EdT), 4731M (EdP)


---------------------------------
Chant d'Aromes
???
reformulated in 2017: 10518 (EdT)


------------------------------------
Eau de Cologne du Coq
before 2007 : ???
reformulated in 2016: 9981M

----------------------------------
Eau de Cologne Imperiale
before 2007:  908M
reformulated in 2015:  9562M

Eau de Cologne Imperiale, (bottle in this picture: year 2004), 
formula 908M


--------------------------------
Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
before 2007 :  ???
reformulated in 2007:  3066M

Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat, (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 3066M

-------------------------------------
Eau de Guerlain
before 2007:  907M
reformulated in 2015:  8940M


--------------------------------------
Guerlain Homme 
launched in 2008 (EdT):  ???
launched in 2009 (EdP):   4545M
reformulated in 2017:   10949  (as "EdP Intense")


----------------------------------
Habit Rouge 
(before 2007):  960M (Eau de Cologne), 
(EdP, launched in 2003): 01019M 
then reformulated in 2007:   02903M (EdT only)
then reformulated in 2011:   06342M (EdT only)
then reformulated in 2013:   07928M (EdT only)
  
Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne, bottle in this picture: year 2004,
formula 960M


Habit Rouge EdT (year 2009), formula 02903M

Habit Rouge Edt, formula 6342M (year 2011)

Habit Rouge, EdT, formula 7928M (year 2013)

Habit Rouge, EdP, (bottle in this picture : year 2010)
formula 1019M


----------------------------------
Heritage
reformulated in 2007:   03240M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2015:   08164M (EdT)


------------------------------------
Jardins de Bagatelle
before 2007:  929M (EdT) 
2007: ???
reformulated in 2016:   09598M (EdP), 06939M (EdT)

Jardins de Bagatelle, EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2005), 
formula 929M

------------------------------------
Idylle
launched in 2009:  4507M (EdP)
launched in 2010: 5360M (EdT), 
reformulated in 2012: 6561M (EdP only)



---------------------------------
Insolence
launched in 2006:   2016M (EdT), 2465M (Parfum)
reformulated in 2012:  06785 (EdP), 06786 (Edt)

Insolence, EdT, pottle in this picture: year 2006), 
formula 2016E


------------------------------------
Instant (pour Femme)
launched in 2003:  0694 (EdP)
launched in 2005:  ??? (EdT)


-------------------------------
Instant Magic pour Femme
launched in 2007:  03070M (EdP)


---------------------------------
Jicky
reformulated in 2007: 03638M (EdT), 03639M (EdP)
then reformulated in 2016:   09640M (EdP)


Jicky EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 03638M


Jicky, EdP, (bottle in this pictiure: year 2011), 
formula 3639M


Jicky EdP, year 2016, formula 9640M

----------------------------------------------
L'Heure Bleue
(before 2007):         900M (EdP)
then reformulated in 2007:     03247M (EdP), 03246M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2010:      05164M (EdP), ??? (EdT)
then reformulated in 2015:     ??? (EdP), 08759M (EdT)

L'Heure Bleue, EdP, year 2005, formula 900M


L'Heure Bleue, EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2010)
 formula 03247M 


L'Heure Bleue EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2011)
 formula 05164M  


L'Heure Bleue, Edt, formula 8759M (since 2015)

-----------------------------------------
L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme 
launched in 2004: 949M (EdT), 
launched in 2005: 1740M (EdP or "Extreme")


---------------------------------------
La Petite Robe Noire
launched in 2012: 6915M (EdT), 6666M (EdP).

AND:
La Petite Robe Noire Couture (EdP, 2014): 8226M
Ma Robe Petales Eau Fraiche (2015) : 8997M
Ma Premiere Robe EdP (2015) : 9340M
Ma Robe sous le Vent (EdP Intense 2016): 10361M
Ma Robe Black Perfecto (2017): 11522

-------------------------------------
L'Homme Ideal
"Eau de Toilette", launched in 2014: 08374M
"Cologne", launched in 2015: 9200M 



-------------------------------------------
Mitsouko
(before year 2007):  931M (EdP), 932M (EdT)
Then reformulated in 2007: 02723M (EdT), 04071M (EdP)
Then reformulated in 2012: 06737M (EdT), 6997M (Parfum)
Then reformulated in 2017 : 11251 (EdT), 11242 (EdP)


Mitsouko, EdT, bottle year 2006,
formula 932M
 
Mitsouko, EdP, bottle year 2006
formula 931M


Mitsouko EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2007), formula 2723M 


Mitsouko EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2009), 4071M

Mitsouko EdP, year 2010, formula 4071M 

Mitsouko EdT (bottle year 2016), formula 06737M


Mitsouko EdT, formula 11251 (year 2017)


Mitsouko Parfum, (this bottle: year 2014), formula  6997M

---------------------------------------
Mon Guerlain
year 2016 (EdP): 10404


-----------------------------------
Nahema
(before 2007):  930M (EdP), ??? (EdT)
then reformulated in 2010: 5344M (EdP), ??? (EdT)
then ???


Nahema, EdP, year 2006, formula 930M


Nahema, EdP, year 2011, formula 5344M


--------------------------------
Petit Guerlain
reformulated in 2013: 07995M (EdT)


----------------------------------------
Samsara
reformulated in 2006:  02849M (EdP)
reformulated in 2015:   09561M (EdT only)
then reformulated in 2017: 11821 (EdP), 11822 (EdT)


------------------------------------------
Shalimar
before 2007: 915M (EdT), 922M (EdP), 921M (Parfum),
reformulated in 2007: 3470M (EdT), 3469M (EdP), 3799M (EdC)
Then reformulated in 2008:  03933M (EdT only)
Then reformulated in 2011:  05051M (EdP only)
Then reformulated in 2013: 07999M (EdT), 07833M (EdP) 

AND:
Shalimar Light/Eau Legere (from 2003 to 2008): ???
Eau de Shalimar: formula 03388M (year 2008)
Parfum Initial EdP:  formula 05634M (year 2011)
Parfum Initial l'Eau EdT: formula 06330M (year 2012)
Ode a la Vanille Madagascar:  formula 05163M (year 2012)
Ode a la Vanille Mexique:  formula 07717M (year 2013)
Souffle de Parfum:  formula 08758M (year 2014)

Shalimar, bottles year 2005, batch 5H01,
formula 922M (EdP), formula 915M (EdT)

Shalimar Parfum, batch 5B01, year 2005, formula 921M



Shalimar EdT (this bottle from year 2011), formula 3933M.



Shalimar, EdP, year 2010, formula 03469M


Shalimar EdP, year 2012, formula 05051M



Shalimar, EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 07833


Shalimar, EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 7999M


-----------------------------------------
Vol de Nuit 
(before 2007):  935M (EdT)
then: ???


Vol de Nuit, EdT, year 2005, formula 935M



-----------------------------------------
Vetiver
(relaunched in year 2000; with a new ribbed/frosted bottle):
2004-2007: 902M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2007 :    2724M (EdT)
then Vetiver Extreme was launched in 2007: 3115M
then both reformulated in 2010: 05544M (EdT), 05543M (Extr.)
then reformulated in 2015 :    08455M (EdT only)


Vetiver, this bottle year 2008, formula 02724M


Vetiver, (this bottle from year 2012), formula 05544M

Vetiver, (this bottle from year 2016), formula 08455M



-----------------------------
------------------------------
MISCELLANEOUS
---------------------------
---------------------------

Aqua Allegoria Mentafollia, year 2004, formula 636M
one of the early examples of "formulas"

Philtre d'Amour, launched in 2000 (bottle in this picture: year 2007)
formula 01613M


Purple Fantasy, launched in 2001, 
(this bottle from year 2006), formula 1642M


Cuir Beluga, launched in 2005,
 (this bottle from year 2014), formula 1683M



Insolence EdT, launched in 2006, formula 02016


Mayotte, launched in 2006,
(this bottle from year 2008), formula 02562M 

Cologne du 68, EdT, launched in 2006, formula 02481M



My Insolence, EdT, launched in 2007, formula 3171


Vetiver pour Elle, launched in 2004, (this bottle from year 2011)
formula 3318M (reformulated in 2007)

Iris Ganache, launched in 2007 (bottle in this picture: year 2011),
formula 3063M



Angelique Noir, launched in 2005, this bottle from 2014,
formula 3614M (reformulated in 2007)



Attrape Coeur, launched in 2005, EdP (this bottle from year 2010),
formula 3649M (reformulated in 2007)

L'Ame d'un Heros, launched in 2008, formula 3514M


Aqua Allegoria Mimosa Tiare, launched in 2009, formula 4176M


Tonka Imperiale, launched in 2010, formula 4797M



Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, launched in 1999, (this bottle from 2015)
formula 4810 (reformulated in 2009)


Shalimar Parfum Initial EdP, launched in 2011, formula 5634M



Aqua Allegoria "Bouquet numero 2", launched in 2011, formula 5650




"Muguet 2011", bottle year 2011, formula 05718M


Chamade pour Homme, launched in 2009, (bottle in this picture: year 2014),  
formula 5890M  (it was reformulated in 2011)

Encens Mythique d'Orient, launched in 2012, formula 6751M


Rose Barbare, launched in 2005, (bottle in this picture: year 2016),
formula 6894M (it was reformulated in 2013) 



Aqua Allegoria Flora Rosa, launched in 2013, formula 07346


"Eau de Parfum Le 68", EdP, launched in 2013, formula 7617M 


Shalimar Ode a la Vanille ("Mexico"), 
launched in 2013, formula 07717



Petit Guerlain EdT, launched in 1994, 
(this bottle from year 2013), formula 07995M (reformulated in 2013)



Aqua Allegoria Teazzura, launched in 2015, formula 9098M


Le Plus Beau Jour de Ma Vie, launched in 2015, formula 09108M

Mon Exclusif, launched in 2015, formula 9579M

"Muguet 2016", formula 9821M



Promenade des Anglais, launched in 2015, formula 10117
-----------------------------------------------------




















How to recognize JEAN PATOU fragrances.

$
0
0


" ....you asked me if there's a way to date old Patou perfumes, 
and I'll teach you how to do.... 
but you shouldn't care about years and months, 
because I worked there, and I can assure you: 
Jean Patou was the best. 
All pieces signed by Patou were pieces of Art.
Top quality, the best materials, and the best perfumes. 
Jean Patou was Art."


We never heard about a method for dating vintage Jean Patou perfumes. Actually it is quite a difficult (if not impossible) task, because Patou technicians used ingenious tricks to date perfumes (such as the "inverse" alphabet), so we have to thanks an old french-italian lady ("Signora Mimma", she is 83-years old now!), once employed at Jean Patou, who revealed us the secrets of the batch-codes, and gave us a *marvellous* interview about "good ol' times" at Patou.
This (very) long article is divided in 4 parts:
- Batch codes revealed;
- Tutorial pics;
- Glimpses from an interview;
- Miscellaneous pics. 
Follow us and learn why "Patou is not about dresses and perfumes, Patou is about Art."
Yours, 
Alba, Roberta, Dahlia, Laura.


First thing to know:
All Patou perfumes have a big, big problem: with a few exceptions, there is no batch code written on the bottlebut on the box only. Consequently, you have to rely on boxes. 
It will be very difficult do date exactly a Patou perfume without its box. 

Moreover, Jean Patou is one of the most difficult brands to "decipher", because its batch-code pattern changed at least five times during years. 
In addition, usual clues could be misleading: it's quite common to read (just as an example) "Copyright 1985" on the box, while the batchcode is 1997 (more than 10 years later) ! 
So, if you are interested in batch-codes, you should give a lot of attention.

Let's begin: remember the usual generic clues...

SYMBOLS
-EMB code and estimated sign ("e") on the box, both introduced at the end of the Seventies.
-Barcode (since 1990) 
-Greendot (since 1992).

ADDRESS
-between 1994 and 2003 you can read: "Rue Saint Florentin 7, 5008 Paris" somewhere on the box; 
-between 2004 until 2014 you can read the address "rue de Castiglione, Paris" on the box.

OWNER:
-between 1984 and 2002 you can read "@Jean Patou Parfumeur" on the box.
-between 2002-2012 you can read "P&G Prestige Beautè" on the box and bottle; 
-since 2012 you can read: "SA Designer Parfums" on box and bottle.


INGREDIENTS:
-A long list of ingredients ("allergens") appear on the boxes since 2005.



---------------------------------------------
PART 1:
THE BATCH CODES REVEALED.
(don't mismatch batchcodes with "ref. numbers" or "quality control" numbers!)
----------------------------------------------

You will read:

Between 1950s and 1972:
- a simple 3-numbers (most common) or 4-numbers (very rare) batch code ;  (example: 694 or 6018)

Between 1972 and 1986:
- a 7 numbers-only batch code; (example: 8051816)


Between 1986 and 1997:
- a 7 digits (mixed letters-and-numbers)batch code , with the famous "inverse" alphabet; (example: W009WEB )


Between 1998 and 2001:
- a 4-digits (mixed letters and numbers) , still using the inverse alphabet; (example: N01C)


After 2002:
a 4-numbers-only batch code  (Prestige Beaute i.e. Procter&Gamble era), and later ("SA Designer Parfums Ltd" era, since 2012).  (example: 5175)



Let's go in details:
------------------------------------
Between 1950s and 1972:

when you see a simple 3-numbers batch code on the corner, (most common)the first two number indicate the year. Examples:


Here you read 561 in the left corner: it means "year 1956"

You read 584 on the right corner = "year 1958"


You read 694 = "year 1969"

You read 702 here: it means "1970"


-when you see 4 numbers (very rare and usually on the back of the label), then the first and the last number indicate the year: 
Eau de Joy, a very rare batch on the label: 6038
first and last number, 6 and 8 = year 1968

---------------------------------------------------

Between 1972 and 1986.

You see a 7 numbers-only batch code (all numbers, without letters).
You must consider the first 4 numbers. 
The scheme is:
-first number: it's the decade (7 or 8)
-second and third numbers: the month (01 to 12)
-fourth number: it's the year (0 to 9)
Example: 
The batch code is 7038782, then:

7 is the decade (1970s)
03 is the month (March)
8 is the year

So, you have to consider first 4 numbers.
7-03-8 = 1978, March.


-----------------------------------------------
Another example:
Batch code is 8076864....
8 is the decade (1980s)
07 is ther month (July)
6 is the year
It means = 1986, July.


-------------------------------------------


...then, between 1986 and 1997: 
the "inverse" alphabet. 

All boxes have a 7-digits batchcode, with mixed numbers and letters.
Example:



and now, pay attention...
***You must check the third-to-last letter***




and this letter means:
Z = 1986
Y = 1987
X = 1988
W= 1989
V = 1990
U = 1991
T = 1992
S = 1993
R = 1994
Q = 1995
P = 1996
O = 1997 (it's the letter O, not "zero")

(remember the inverse order! 
"Z" bottles are older than "Y";
Y bottles are older than X;
X bottles are older than W, etc....)


------------------------------------------------


....then, between 1998 and 2001

Boxes sport a 4-digits-only batch code 
and first digit is always a LETTER.
You must consider the first letter  (always using the inverse alphabet):

N= 1998 
M = 1999
L = 2000
K = 2001

example:

batch N041= Year 1998
because letter N is 1998


(NOTE: during these years you could rarely read a few 
strange batchcodes  such as "AO001AC" or similar. )

---------------------------------------------------------


Between 2001 and 2012: 
Prestige Beaute / Procter&Gamble" Era:

All boxes sport a "P&G Prestige Beautè" label, with a 4-numbers batch-code (without letters)
During these years, bottles have the batchcode printed on the bottom. 

2xxx = 2002
3xxx = 2003
4xxx = 2004
(here long list of ingredients appears on the box)
5xxx = 2005
6xxx = 2006
7xxx = 2007
8xxx = 2008
9xxx = 2009
0xxx = 2010
1xxx = 2011
2xxx = 2012


example:
batch 5033= year 2005


------------------------------------------------
After 2012: 
"SA Designer Parfums Ltd" on the box and label,
 4-numbers and same style batchcodes
-----------------------------------






------------------------------------------
PART 2: TUTORIAL PICS
------------------------------------------


before 1970s...
if you see 3 digits batch code 
you have to consider first two numbers:
694 = year 1969

if you see 4-numbers (6038)
first and last number, 6 and 8 = 
year 1968


-------------------------------------
1972-1986
7-numbers batchcodes
you have to check the first four numbers: 
first = the decade, 
second and third = the month, 
fourth = the year

-------------
1972
Batch 7-09-2-xxx  = 1972, September

---------------------------------
1973
batch 7-01-3-xxx = 1973, January.


------------
1974
batch 7-04-4-xxx = 1974, april.

--------------------------
1975
batch 7-09-5-xxx = 1975, september.

--------------------------------
1976
Batch 7-06-6-xxx = 1976, June.

-------------------------
1977
batch 7-11-7-xxx  = 1977, november

-------------------
1978

batch 7-03-8-xxx = 1978, march.


---------------
1979
batch 7-12-9-xxx = 1979, december.

batch 7-08-9-xxx = 1978, august.
-----------------
1980
batch 8-10-0-xxx = 1980, october.

batch 8-07-0-xxx = 1980, july

batch 8-03-0-xxx = 1980, march
----------------
1981
batch 8-10-1-xxx = 1981, october

batch 8-04-1-xxx = 1981, april

----------------------
1982
batch 8-12-2-xxx = 1982, december

-------------------
1983
batch 8-07-3-xxx = 1983, july

-------------------------
1984
batch 8-04-4-xxx = 1984, april

--------------------
1986
batch 8-05-6-xxx = 1986, may

batch 8076864 = 1986, july

-------------------------------------------------------------------
1986-1997: 
7-digits batch code 
with numbers AND letters
***you MUST check the third-to-last letter***



Z = 1986
Y = 1987
X = 1988
W= 1989
V = 1990
U = 1991
T = 1992
S = 1993
R = 1994
Q = 1995
P = 1996
O = 1997 

---------------
1987 
(third-to-last is letter "Y")


----------------
1988 
(third-to-last is letter "X")



----------------------
1989 
(third-to-last is letter "W")

------------------
1990 
(third-to-last is letter "V")


------------------------
1991 
(third-to-last is letter "U")


------------------------------
1992
(third-to-last is letter "T")


-------------------------------------
1993 
(third-to-last is letter "S")


-----------------------
1994 
(third-to-last is letter "R")



------------------------------
1996 
(third-to-last is letter "P")
note the copyright 1989 although the perfume dates year 1996! 

---------------------------
1997 
(third-to-last is letter "O", 
not the zero)



--------------------------------------------
1998-2001
4-digits only batch code 
(first digit is always a letter

N= 1998 
M = 1999
L = 2000
K = 2001


-----------------------------
1998 
(4-digits, first letter "N")



--------------------------
1999 
(4-digits, first letter "M")







---------------------------
2000 
(4-digits, first letter "L")

---------------------
2001 (4-digits, first letter "K")

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


AN EXAMPLE OF "MISLEADING" LABEL

You read "Copyright 1985" 
with box batched N= year 1998
(13 years later) !

-----------------------------------------------------------
STRANGE BATCH CODES...
(between 1997 and 2001)


These seldom used batchcodes (AO 01AC) 
appeared between 1997 and 2001.

Rare batchcodes used between 1997 and 2001.



--------------------------------------
Years 2002-2012: 
Prestige Beautè  ("Procter&Gamble") Era.

2xxx = 2002
3xxx = 2003
4xxx = 2004
(here long list of ingredients appears on the box)
5xxx = 2005
6xxx = 2006
7xxx = 2007
8xxx = 2008
9xxx = 2009
0xxx = 2010
1xxx = 2011

BEWARE: there is a notable difference 
on the boxes:

BEFORE:
This is a typical bottle BEFORE Procter&Gamble 
(i.e.before 2002)
A box with plain golden lines on the borders.

and AFTER.....
During "Procter&Gamble Era", you will see boxes with crossing  lines on corners

(NOTE: during transition periods, 
you could find new boxes with old batchcodes, 
and/or old boxes with new codes, 
and/or old boxes with new owner)


--------------------------------
2002-2005 : short list of ingredients

 Prestige Beautè ("Procter&Gamble") label 
(note the crossing lines on corners)
Note the short ingredients list = it's before 2005

Batch 2351 = year 2002

--------------------------------------
2005-2012: long list of ingredients
Since 2005: Procter&Gamble label,  
with long list of ingredients
(and crossing lines on corners)

batch 5164 = year 2005
(note the long-list of ingredients)


"Procter&Gamble" Era,
 batch 5033 = year 2005

------------------------
Since 2012: "SA Designer Parfums" label

Since 2012: 'SA Designer Parfums' label on box,
with crossing lines on borders.




------------------------------------
A FEW MORE CLUES?
read here....

When you see any reference number in brackets 
= between 1967 and 1970, 
because during 1960s there was a shifting in reference numbers.

Reference number in brackets = 
between 1967 and 1970

Estimated Sign (e) somewhere on the box?
It appeared at the end of the 1970s


Bar-code somewhere on the box?
It appeared in 1990.


----------------------------------------------------------
TABLE of REFERENCE numbers
it could be helpful to identify a perfume by ref. number only

Old reference numbers, 
before 1967
Joy ref. n. 2459 = 7 ml
Joy ref n. 459 = 15 ml or 1 oz. (classic Patou transparent bottle)
Joy ref. n 460 = 30 ml or 1 oz (classic Patou transparent bottle)
Eau de Joy ref 463 = 30ml or 1oz
Eau de Joy ref n 464 = 45 ml or 1 1/2 oz
Joy Eau de Toilette ref nr. 465 = 90ml or 3oz


Between 1967 and 1970: 
New with old 
reference numbers in brackets


AFTER 1970
Joy Extrait/Parfum
Joy ref 1100 = 30 ml / 1 oz Baccarat Bottle
Joy ref. n. 1103 = 7 ml. or 1/4 oz. (Flaconnette /black jar)
Joy ref. n. 1104 = 15ml. or 1/2 oz  (Classic Patou bottle)
Joy ref. n. 1105 =  30 ml or 1 oz (Classic Patou bottle)
Joy ref. 1111 = 6 ml or 1/5 oz. (LeCompagnon pour le sac)
Joy ref n 1113 = 10 ml or 1/3 fl.oz (Vapomiseur Luxe)
Joy ref. n 1115 = 7.5ml or 1/4 oz. (Vapomiseur)

Eau de Joy (EdP)
Eau de Joy ref. n. 1203 = 30 ml or 1 oz. (Splash)
Eau de Joy ref. n. 1204 = 45 ml or 1 1/2 oz (Splash)
Eau de Joy 60ml 2 oz (Spray) = ref ???
Eau de Joy ref. n. P1220 = 25 ml (Vaporisateur Rechargeable)
Eau de Joy ref 1213 = 60ml 2 oz. (Spray Refillable)
Eau de Joy ref n. P1215 = 45 ml (Vaporisateur)
Eau de Joy ref 1214 = 60ml 2 oz (Recharge Spray)

1000 Extrait/Parfum
"1000" ref 3102 = 7 ml or 1/4 oz (classic Patou bottle)
"1000" ref  3103 = 7 ml or 1/4 oz (Flaconnette / green jar)
"1000" ref 3104 = 15 ml or 1/2 oz  (Classic Patou bottle)
"1000" ref 3105 = 30 ml or 1 oz (Classic Patou bottle)
"1000" ref 3115 = 7.5 ml or 1/4 oz (Vapomiseur)
"1000" ref  3110 = 7.5 ml or 1/4 oz (Refillable Spray metal case year 1999)

Eau de 1000 (EdP)
Eau de 1000 ref n. 3201  = 30 ml or 1 oz (Splash)
Eau de 1000 ref 3202 = 60  ml or 2 oz (Splash)
Eau de 1000 ref n. 3213 = 60 ml or 2 oz (Vapomiseur Splash and Spray)

1000 Eau de Toilette (EdT)
1000 Eau de Toilette ref. n. 3302 = 30 ml or 1 oz. (Splash)
1000 Eau de Toilette ref n. 3315 = 45 ml or 1.5 oz(Vaporisateur Spray)
1000 Eau de Toilette ref n.3303 = 60 ml or 2 oz (Splash)
1000 Eau de Toilette ref n 3316  = 90 ml or 3 oz (Vaporisateur Spray)
1000 Eau de Toilette 120 ml 4 oz splash ??

---------------------------------------------------
Reminder:
"Joy" is the Parfum/Extrait.
"Eau de Joy" is the "EdP" (1953, discontinued at end of 1990s)
"Joy Eau de Toilette" is the "EdT" (re-launched in 1984)

"1000" is the Parfum/Extrait (launched in 1972)
"Eau de 1000" is the EdP (1977, discontinued at end of 1990s)
"1000 Eau de Toilette" is the EdT (launched in 1985)
----------------------------------------------------


----------------------------
PART 3: 
Glimpses from an interview.
(please note this interview was translated from French 
in Italian, then re-translated in English...)
------------------------------




-----------------------------
Patou is Art
-....Jean Patou was not simply "Perfumery": it was "Art". You asked me how to decode batch numbers, but the date of production has really little importance when dealing with Patou. 
All Patou perfumes were realized as pieces of art, without any compromise in quality, and don't need any "date". This is the truth, although it's difficult to believe. Every piece was masterfully crafted, and is a jewel of its own.


----------------------
Four Aces in the Sleeve
....Patou was the "number one" in perfumery. Period. 
This was possible because Patou had four aces in the sleeve. 
First: "Jean Patou" was a relatively small company, headed by nephews and relatives of Patou's family, it was very distant from big corporations. Therefore, only a few people took decisions, and they were very proud of their name, and committed on duty.
Second: there was complete control over production, from beginning to end. Patou had many fields in Provence, cultivating and  harvesting roses and jasmines under strict control; Patou had its own factory at Levallois ("the city of perfumes"), near Paris, and produced its own fragrances "working at home". This gave us an enormous advantage in terms of quality. 
Third: following Patou's philosophy, we didn't spare any expense in producing perfumes, because haute parfumerie was the best complement for haute couture. Only the best materials were used to make perfumes. Being at "top quality" gave us a reputation that many others could not have.
Four: Patou had the best "nose", a magnificent person, a true genius, very gifted and talented in perfumery. His name's Jean Kerleo. He was so legendary that when Jean Kerleo prepared a perfume, everyone knew in advance it would be a masterpiece.
This are the reason why Patou was the best. Let's say without prejudice: only Chanel, Christian Dior, and Guerlain could stay "on par" with us ....maybe.

--------------------------
My first Patou
.....I remember my first impact with a Patou perfume: it was "Amour Amour". I removed the cap and smell directly from the bottle. Boom! I was completely blown out by the strongest powdery wave ever imaginable, mixed to beautiful flowers. And it it was so divine...... 

--------------------------
Obsessed with quality
Why so obsessed with quality at Patou? because quality was our "business card" in front of the world. In a market so crowded, the fact that everyone knew our perfumes as "the best ones in the world", gave us automatically a great appeal. 
Quality was our way to keep the brand-name high.
Patou thought that "making the best perfumes in the world" would bring so much visibility to the company.
Another unusual aspect that's difficult to believe: Patou never cared about of the costs, he thought only of achieving the best. Many of Patou perfumes were so expensive to produce, that barely made any real gain.   

-----------------------
Magnificence and Ruin
...it's very painful to say, but let's speak honestly: one of the reasons why Patou failed was the fact that it maintained too high standards and refused compromises. It was impossible to maintain such levels through the years. It was too much expensive. "1000" never did real profits. "Joy" barely had some. Patou never did compromises about perfumes, and from the first to the last one, you will always find the highest quality. This is the reason I'm so fond with Patou, because it refused to cheapen products. Patou was the the archetype of "seriousness". 
And, moreover, it would have been impossible to "save money", cheapening the ingredients. Consumers would notice immediately.
And this is the reason I get angry listening "experts" saying Patou was "overrated". Overrated? Are you kidding?    
You could like or dislike them, but there have never been perfumes better than Patou ones, and I think there will never be.

---------------------------
The biggest drawback
Forget about batch-codes and pay attention here: the most important thing you should know is the *fragility* of certain perfumes. Yes, no one told you, but all Patou perfumes/extraits are very easily ruined. We used to say "stay away from Heat, Air, and Light". All Patou extraits/parfums were sealed by hand using a wet membrane, so when it dried, it "solidified" around the cap and the bottleneck. The integrity was assured by a golden cord around the neck, and finally the boxes were wrapped with paper or plastic/cellophane. Once the cord and/or the membrane are removed, degradation process happens very quickly. 
After just two three years your extrait is *completely* ruined! 
Don't look at the batch-codes, look at the integrity instead! 


----------------------------------
Buying tips
First and foremost: NEVER buy any vintage Patou extrait/perfume with its cord and membrane removed or damaged. They are 100% ruined in presence of air, light, and heat.
- Be VERY careful with sealed bottles without box: light probably ruined them (unless you are considering the small black bottles). 
- Take in consideration perfectly sealed bottles stored inside the box, but be suspicious when you see a "still sealed bottle" with too much evaporation: something went wrong.
-  Buy cellophane-sealed boxes: most likely they are OK.
If you find such a bottle, grab it without hesitation: it is a treasure. 


NO!! this bottle is most likely "ruined".
You can see the cord and the membrane removed. 
Don't buy such bottles for perfume, but for collecting only. 

No! you see damaged cord and ruined membrane, 
and perfume evaporated too much....

YES: cord and membrane are ok.
---------------------------------------------
The Golden label
...a rather unknown fact: many parfum/extrait bottles sport a label made by genuine gold -don't throw away your empty bottles!- you can easily recognize it because it seems "printed" on the bottle, and you can't peel it off. Actually, it is a foil of pure gold applied directly on the bottle. The same happened with an EdT: "Patou pour Homme", since its cap is covered with gold.


---------------------------------
The Golden Ratio
Louis Sue and Andre Mare created the iconic transparent bottle for "Joy", following the "Golden Ratio" rule, described by greek mathematician Euclid. The Golden Ratio (also called the Golden Number or the Divine Proportion) was a math rule used in ancient art believing it was aesthetically pleasant. 
The bottle of Joy is therefore an application of Math in Art.
Immagine correlata
The Joy bottle actually is the application of a math formula:
the Golden Ratio.

--------------------------------
Worsening of quality in late years?
...you asked me if rumors about Patou perfumes suffering in quality during late years are true or false.... 
This question makes me sick and furious! Until Jean Patou was independent (i.e before P&G) there wasn't any deterioration in quality! You see, Jean Kerleo was so loyal and committed to quality, year after year, that there was no danger of "worsening". He and his technicians checked carefully every batch of any perfume, assuring the highest standards. You can buy any Patou scent, finding out the same outstanding quality. Kerleo retired in 1999, and I personally would buy all Patou scents until that date.
Patou was later sold to Procter&Gamble in 2001, and the perfume division moved to UK. And this is another different story......


---------------------------
The Bargain Basket
...I walked in a perfume shop in Italy, a few years ago, I was on holiday near Portofino, and I saw the "bargain basket" where usually the seller put all heavily-discounted perfumes, at 10-15-20 euros... and I saw a bottle of Ma Libertè, one of the most carefully-built scent....I almost fainted. 
For a moment, I wanted to go to the seller and ask her: "Excuse me, do you have any idea which treasure do you put in the basket for just 20 euros?". In the end, I held back....



----------------------------
"Reformulations"? ...of course!
....well, this is a strange question! All perfumes are continuously reformulated! 
The most sophisticated perfumes (i.e: "Joy", "1000", and "Sublime") contained very high amounts of naturals, and were reformulated literally batch-to-batch. This because there are not two identical crops of natural jasmine, rose and osmanthus, so you had to "reorchestrate" the formula very often. You know, the best reformulation is the one where you don't notice any change... and the biggest part of time was spent by technicians in reformulating perfumes to obtain always the same product. 
Just as an example, "Joy" was a relatively simple formula, it was composed by at least 7-8 different roses and jasmines (mainly Rose de Mai and Jasmine de Grasse) plus a "base" (i.e. a "mini-perfume", prepared by an external lab) and other minor ingredients, and you could easily "re-orchestrate" the whole opera, varying the amounts. 
"1000" was more complex and difficult to "reformulate" instead.
Apart this, we sometimes had to change formulas when some molecules were banned, the classical example being certain musks, during the Seventies. 


------------------------
The one(s)-off
....yes, Joy is a "one-off" in the world of perfumery, and "1000" too. Such perfumes are really unique even today. 
Joy and "1000" were so expensive to produce that barely made any real profit. Patou never made any compromise in producing both. Can you spare expenses producing your most iconic products? Of course not. 
You see, in a over-crowded market, Joy was the equivalent of a "Ferrari" car. Having practically no competitor, it was the most famed perfume. The best "business presentation card" for the company: "Joy de Jean Patou", it's simply the best
No further words needed. 
Unfortunately, this was its biggest problem: it was too expensive to produce and impossible to cheapen. And the same happened with "1000".


------------------------------
Could you believe it?
....when Patou launched "1000", one of the most expensive perfumes in the world, there was so little osmanthus that you had to go and buy it in China. Well, Patou bought lands in China to grow new osmanthus, and then built a factory there. Incredible, huh?
Yes, we had a facility in China to produce our flowers only, maintaining control from beginning to end. Osmanthus was used mainly in "1000" and "Sublime". 


--------------------------------
Karl Lagerfeld
....a few people are aware of the fact that famous Karl Lagerfeld designed haute couture collections at Jean Patou during the 1960s. Later, he reportedly said: "A lot of  things for which Chanel gets credit were actually created by Jean Patou". 
Ok, he was not speaking about perfumes, but it was the best compliment one could receive.


-------------------------------
Sampling Patou perfumes....
... Well, I was given two samples, "Joy" and "1000", both as EdT (Eau the Toilette) produced by Procter&Gamble in the 2000s. I almost fainted, reading "Made in UK" instead of  "Made in France" on the box! Well, in my opinion, "1000" EdT was *barely* acceptable. There are a lot of differences from the original version, but I judged it as "barely acceptable".... 
....but "Joy" EdT was terrible instead! The basenotes were completely wrong, with an atrocious aroma of burnt rubber......
I didn't test any "Parfum" (and I hope they are better than EdTs), but if you love Patou perfumes, you should stay away from any scent produced in those years. 
To be honest, I never sampled perfumes produced by SA Designer Parfums (i.e. since 2012), so I can't say anything about. 


-----------------------------
"Joy" and "Eau de Joy"
....technically "Joy" is the Parfum (or "Extrait"), while "Eau de Joy" is the "Eau de Parfum", a more affordable and wearable version, launched during the 1950s.
The difference was not only a dilution, but a "reorchestration".
Joy (Extrait/Parfum) used 7-8 different types of roses and jasmines, plus other ingredients, mixed together in precise amounts.
All these amounts were modified in "Eau de Joy".
Then in the middle of the 1980s, we re-launched the "Joy Eau de Toilette" (it already existed in the 1950s), the lightest version, using further dilutions and further different amounts.
So, there are three scents, different each other by dilutions and proportions.
The same thing (dilutions and different proportions) happened to "1000" (Parfum), "Eau de 1000" (EdP, launched at the end of 1970s), and "1000 Eau de Toilette" (EdT, launched in 1985). 



------------------------
100% naturals? 
.....let's speak frankly, no one produced perfumes that are 100% naturals. Everyone used synthetics, in various amounts, and everyone used the so-called "bases", (i.e. a sort of "perfume basic core" already prepared) around which the final perfume is built. You know, perfumers can use expensive molecules, or dirty cheap ones. At Patou we used only the finest and the best ingredients in order to obtain the best perfumes. 


---------------------------
Chanel N.5 and math...
....you heard the news: "Chanel n.5" is the best perfume in the world, the most sensual, the most famous, Marilyn Monroe's favourite, the overall bestseller, and finally "Chanel n.5 contains a dozen of roses and a thousand of jasmine flowers inside a 1 oz. bottle!".
Well, someone did the math: "Joy", since its creation, contain the equivalent of 11 roses and 350 jasmine flowers per milliliter (1/30 oz)
This means a mere 3 ml (1/10oz.) of "Joy" outperforms in roses and jasmine a whole bottle of "Chanel n.5". Remember it! 


-------------------
A phone call
....many years ago I received a call from an aromatherapist, she told me "Joy" and "1000" were extraordinary because of real roses, real jasmines, osmanthus! Ooooh, real flowers, not synthetic ones! So rare, so magnificent, so unique! 
I giggled for hours, figuring Jean Patou perfumes used for  aromatherapy with great results!

---------------------
False Beliefs
...a few people think Patou began its decline when Christian Lacroix quitted at the end of 1980s. Rubbish! 
Although it was a unpleasant story with papers spreading the news exaggerately, and with legal consequences, Patou still flourished for a few years. Declining arrived during the Nineties, when the big corporations acquired all perfume companies.


------------------------
The End
...at the end of 1980s Arnault bought Parfums Christian Dior, then: Caron was sold to hypermarket Cora; Yves Saint Laurent was bought by pharmaceutical group Sanofi, Rochas by Wella, Guerlain and Givenchy by LVMH ..... how could Patou keep its independence? The big corps destroyed everything.


----------------------------
Not all "wine and roses".
...working at Patou it wasn't all "wine and roses", there were also many unpleasant moments, but I think this happens in all jobs, isn't it? Here, I want to remember only nice moments.

-----------------------------
A final thought
I'm glad of these questions, and I want to say one more thing. People think Chanel, Dior, Guerlain, Hermes, are the best, the most famous, the highest-quality perfumes ever produced. 
Well, believe me, "classical" Jean Patou perfumes were not inferior to others. Patou deserves at least the same credit and respect. 
Well, I hope this interview will help to give Jean Patou the right place and, after so many years, to have the due consideration among the great actors in Perfumery. 
The Greatest one, maybe.

---------------------------------------
About Perfumes....
---------------------------------------

 "Joy"
....."Joy" was voted "Scent of the XX Century", beating its rival Chanel N.5. Any further question? I'll repeat it staunchly: grab every intact bottle of "Joy" you can find, it will be a treasure in your hands.
Risultati immagini per joy ad patou advertisement
----------------------------
"Lacoste" (since 1967)
Raymond Barbas (director of Patou for 45 years, and Jean Patou's grandson) and Rene Lacoste (creator of the famous "green crocodile" brand) were close friends and both agreed to create Lacoste perfumes under the Patou supervision. Patou launched 4 or 5 Lacoste perfumes during years (all created by Jean Kerleo and coll.). Most notable the first ones, launched during the 1960s, then "Lacoste pour Homme" and "Lacoste Land", later.
The first one was launched in 1967 and it was a fresh, summer scent in the same manner of Eau Sauvage, but above all was the percursor of the magnificent "Eau de Patou" launched in 1976.  


----------------------------------------
"1000" 
("Le Parfum Deraisonnable", 1972)
The Deraisonnable, or Unreasonable: this was a so iconic perfume and it has been talked about so much that I do not know what else to say. Raymond Barbas asked Jean Kerleo another "one-off" in the same way as "Joy": creating something really unique. A work of Art and a Jewel, more than a scent. 
After many years of attempts, Kerleo presented "1000", a perfume so rare, unique and expensive that never made any real profit, but it was marketed due to its iconicity. Osmanthus, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, ylang-ylang, civet, musk...what else? 
It was launched in the same way of Joy. If you read Elsa Maxwell's memories, you will know the launch of "Joy" realized using a revolutionary marketing: i.e. as a gift for the most notable people, a fact that gave enormous publicity.
"1000" was marketed exactly in the same way, as a gift for the most famous french women. But it was so scarce that the first year of production was sold out "as a gift" without a single bottle being sold! 
During early years, "1000" had to be sold only on request. Later, Patou bought osmanthus fields in China, built a factory there, and produced its own flowers, increasing the production. At the end of 1970s "Eau de 1000" (the EdP) was launched, and followed by "1000 Eau de Toilette" (EdT, 1985). 
It seems impossible, if looked with modern eyes: a perfume produced without any gain, just to keep the brand-name high!
During early years "1000" was produced only as "parfum" and only "by request", and each bottle was sold with progressive hand-numbered cardboard. 

  


----------------------------------------------
Eau de Patou 
("Elegance without high heels", 1976)
Simply marvellous. "Eau de Patou" was a development of  the first "Lacoste": the two scents actually share quite a few similarities ... but what an improving! 
Arguably the best "Eau de" ever produced, it was the epitome of Freshness. A perfume full of contrast, sweet and bitter at the same time, suitable for men and women, you could even use it during winter and summer! 
I remember the first "splash" bottles had a square silver cap, so big and chunky, that was problematic to put on and off. 
When it was relaunched at the end of the 1980s with a different, conic bottle, the advertising said: "this is Patou elegance without high heels", and believe me this was the best compliment. 
Although in a different bottle, the scent remained exactly the same. Could you ruin such a magnificent perfume?



---------------------------------------------
Patou pour Homme
("...and then it arrived.", 1980)
One of the greatest masculine ever, and one of Jean Kerleo's greatest achievements. According a famous story, Raymond Barbas sampled it, then said: "Well, I can retire just now". Although it's only a story, actually he retired! 
Patou pour Homme was very, very expensive (as all Patou perfumes), bold, rich, gorgeous, and I can't find proper words to describe it. Unless you try it, you can't figure it out.
Built around a lavender-tobacco accord, it was so strong that even aftershaves lasted for hours. A real powerhouse.
One of the best compliment was: "Patou pour Homme could be the beginning and the end of any discussion about perfumes". That's right! 
The advertise told " ...puis survint Patou pour Homme", i.e. "...and then arrived Patou pour Homme". 
Exactly: never smelled something like this before.
Don't throw away old bottles: the cap is covered with gold.



--------------------------------------
Ma Liberte 
("Moment Supreme strikes back", 1987)
Well, I left Patou immediately before Ma Libertè... This is a fragrance that deserves whole books to be able to say all there is to say, although it is remembered for its unusual marketing in many european countries: newspapers were soaked with the EdT, and when you flipped pages, you smelled the perfume all around! 
Jean Kerleo received fierce critics for Ma Libertè after its launch, because it was so different from any previous Patou perfume. One of the critics said it was a "Guerlain vu par Jean Patou", (i.e.  "Jean Patou lauched a perfume similar to those of Guerlain!").... 
Well, when in 1980 Raymond Barbas retired, his place was taken by the grandnephews Jean and Guy deMouy. The first thing they did was a try to "rejuvenate" the brand. Christian Lacroix was hired for the haute couture, and at least for the first years this turned out to be a winning move. You see, Patou was considered by many an old-fashioned brand and this new wave of youth brought new life. So, deMouy asked Jean Kerleo to create a new perfume taking into account the new "youth" of the brand. For some reason, Kerleo was inspired by one of the biggest Patou hits from the past, the legendary "Moment Supreme", one of the best lavender/oriental perfumes ever made. 
"Ma Libertè" was "Moment Supreme" revisited, with a modernized habit, more "unisex", more suited to modern times. 
Facing a new challenge, the scent was nevertheless made with the utmost care in raw materials and ingredients. At the end, Ma Libertè resulted in something magnificent but completely different from the usual Patou perfumes, vaguely resembling a Guerlain. The audience remained perplexed since Ma Liberte lacked the fierce "sillage" (or "projection") typical of all other Patou perfumes.
Interesting fact: it was never produced as a Perfume, but as EdT and EdP only, using two beautiful ArtDeco-style EdP bottles.





-------------------------
Sublime 
("Back to glorious days", 1992)
Just a word: perfection. If you want to know what "a scent" is, simply smell Sublime, or spray it on your clothes. Jean Kerleo took years to develop it, avoiding all critics he received for his previous scent, and scored again. 
It was another gorgeous Jean Patou-style scent, at highest level. 
The most incredible thing is that Sublime looks like a modern perfume and an old-classic at the same time. 
One of my favourites. In my opinion, it could be on par with Joy and "1000", or just a tiny step behind.


Risultati immagini per sublime patou

--------------------------
Privè
("Ma Libertè 2", 1994)
Ma Libertè was the the most criticized of all Patou perfumes but when Privè was launched instantly got wild, ravage reviews: "....the best modern masculine is here!". Well, you should know it: Privè is nothing but Ma Liberte with the simple "fougere" accord added. If you sample Privè and Ma Libertè side-by-side, you realize that they are very similar.


---------------------------
Voyageur 
(The Fiasco, 1995)
Ok, I left Patou a few years before, and I can't tell much about it. You know the story: it was Patou's biggest fiasco. 
The most expensive Eau de Toilette for Men ever launched, and the first "Aquatic Fougere": it was so unusual.
You still smell an amazing quality -as every Patou perfume- but at the same time you feel confused. It's a mix between "old and new". But this "old and new" style worked wonderfully with Sublime, and failed utterly with Voyageur. 
Yet in my opinion, is still a nice fragrance and improves with time. You have to try it many times to really appreciate it.
Even today I wonder if it was an unrecognized masterpiece or just a disaster. No one really understood it, and probably will be rediscovered in thirty years. Someone says it was too far ahead of the times....




---------------------------
Yohji
("Sublime 2", 1996)
This is truly a great perfume and deserves a lot of consideration: it was created on commission for the Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. I was told Jean Kerleo resumed the old Sublime formula by adding new, unusual spiced tones. It turned out in a magnificent unisex scent, and it was the precursor of many other perfumes launched during following years (Bvlgari Black, Body Kouros, etc).

Yohji 1996 Yohji Yamamoto for women


------------------------
Patou Forever (1998)
This is the last perfume I can tell something. It was last classical Patou perfume, and it was another interpretation from the past. Patou Forever was a rebuilding from old classic Colony

Risultati immagini per "patou forever" advertisement




----------------------------------------
MISCELLANEOUS
----------------------------------------


"Flaconnette" / Black Jar, end of 1940s

Bottom of the "Flaconnette", end of 1940s


"Flaconnette" Box, end of 1940s


Joy, label on the bottle, year 1955.
Notice the very small "DE" word.

Joy, bottom of the bottle, year 1955

Joy Eau de Toilette, year 1955


AmourAmour, Parfum Cologne, year 1956


Eau de Joy, 45ml, year 1961: 
notice the old wrapping paper.

Eau de Joy, year 1963


Eau de Joy, box, year 1968:
notice ref. numbers with and without brackets


Eau de Joy, year 1968: notice the batchcode
printed "under the label"


"AmourAmour", Parfum-Cologne,
year 1969

"Moment Supreme", Eau de Toilette,
 year 1970

Moment Supreme, Parfum-Cologne,
60ml, year 1971

Moment Supreme, Parfum-Cologne,
60ml, year 1971


"AmourAmour", parfum 7.5ml,
batchcode 7065754 ,year 1975



"Eau de Caline", 120 ml / 4 oz.
batch code 7053732 (year 1973)


Joy "LeCompagnon", 6ml, year 1973


Vapomiseur Spray de Luxe, 10 ml, year 1973



Typical single-boxed "Flaconnette" (black jar),
produced from late 1960s until 1975.
Notice "Joy Jean Patou" without the word "DE".

Joy, 7.5ml, inner and outer boxes, year 1973


Typical "Flaconnette" (Black jar) boxes and bottle,
 year 1976-1986. Notice "Joy DE Jean Patou"


Typical Flaconnette, bottle and boxes, since 1988
notice the thick-borders "golden" box.


Typical "Vapomiseur" spray, 7.5 ml, 
years 1973-1982 

Joy, Parfum, 15 ml,
year 1975 (JP-embossed box)


Joy,  Parfum, 15ml, year 1977

Eau de Joy, Vapomiseur, 45 ml,
 year 1979

"1000", Parfum, year 1980


"AmourAmour" 120ml/4oz. Parfum Cologne,
batch code 8030802 (year 1980)



Eau de 1000, Vapomiseur, 60ml.
Year 1981



1000, Parfum, 7.5ml, year 1982


Eau de Joy Vapomiseur, year 1984

"1000", EdT, 30ml, year 1988


"Eau de Joy"/ Eau de Parfum,
 60ml / 2 oz spray rechargeable
 in plastic "flaconnette", year 1991


Joy Eau de Toilette, with "JOY-embossed box",
year 1991


Eau de Joy, 30ml, year 1992
"1000", Parfum, 7.5 ml Green Flaconnette,
year 1994
Eau-De-Patou-Women-039-s-Eau-de-Toilette-Spray-1-7oz-New-In-Box-Vintage-1989-Rare
Eau de Patou, year 1995


Joy, 30ml, year 1999

Women-039-s-Vintage-Miniature-Joy-by-Jean-Patou-0-25oz-BOX-AND-BOTTLE-ONLY-EMPTY
Joy, Parfum, Flaconnette, year 2001


"Vacances", Ma Collection Edition,
batch code L01A (year 2000)


Joy, Parfum, 30ml, modern.

-------------------------------

Many Thanks to:

-Grace Hummel
-K.Janicki
-Monsieurguerlain
-Andre Moreau
-Kafkaesque
-Boisdejasmin
-Perfumeshrine
-Perfumedmaze
-Cafleurebon
-Ismellthereforeiam
-Aperfumeblog
-Persolaise
-Perfumeposse
-Perfumesmellinthings
-Thenonblonde
-Theblacknarcissus
-Thescentedhound
-Thesoundofscent
-Theperfumechronichles
-Thecandyperfumeboy
-Graindemusc
-Nstperfume
-Aperfumeblog
-Perfumesociety
-Yesterdaysperfume
-Colognoisseur
-Octavian Coifan
...and all guys and girls at Fragrantica, Basenotes, and Parfumo.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(No bottle for sale. All pictures provided by friends all over the Net.
If you want to remove any pic, please email us)

How to recognize GUCCI perfumes.

$
0
0


"Dating" Gucci perfumes can be a very, very difficult task due to extremely intricated story of House of Gucci during decades.
Therefore, similarly to what was done with Jean Patou perfumes (read here the marvellous story-interview), we received some help from signor Ernesto, an old employee at Gucci in Florence, now retired, who helped us to solve many controversial aspects.
Dating Gucci perfumes can make you fool, because you have to "decipher" same numbers during different periods. 
One of the most famous example is batchcode "0163": it could mean year 2003 (Wella-type batchcodes, you have to check the last number) or year 2010 (Procter&Gamble-type ones, you have to check the first number).... 
So, in an attempt to "date" all Gucci perfumes, we have to proceed in a rather unusual way: "period-by-period" and "scent-by-scent".
But, after all, as signor Ernesto said us: "...in many cases, you can rely on the clues on the boxes, i.e. addresses, distributors, labels, more than the batchcodes..."
Follow us in this long and a bit complicate road.
Alba, Laura, & Roberta.


Read carefully the Clues!

-Bar-codes on the box: since 1990.
-Greendot : since 1992.
-Allergens list (or "long list of ingredients"): since 2004-2005.

Producer:
From 1972 to 1993 you read: "Scannon, Le Parfums Gucci".
From 1993 to 2010 you will read simply "Scannon".
From 2010 to 2015: "P&G Prestige".
Since 2015: "Coty".

Addresses on the box:
if: "Scannon, Rue de Castiglione": years 1997- 2002
if: "Scannon, Rue Francois 1er": years 2003-2008
if: "Scannon, Rue de Miromesnil": 2008-2011 (and beyond..)
Then, "P&G Prestige" label gradually appeared since 2008 
Then, "Coty" label, since 2015.

REMEMBER: many perfumes after 2010 continued to use old "Scannon/Wella" boxes instead of "P&G" ones. In these cases, you have to rely on the batchcode...... 

Another clue is the different Distributor (used until 2003)
From 1972 to 1993 : "Distributed by Scannon Ltd" (in USA) or "Scannon SA" (Europe), or by "International Perfumes", or without any distributor.
1987-2003 : "Distributed by Colonia SpA" (in Italy)
1993-1996 : "Distributed by Stern Fragrances" (in USA)
1996-2003 : "Distributed by Intercosmetics" (in USA)

Batchcodes style:
From 1994 to 2006 : Wella-style (same of Rochas, SEE HERE)
From 2006 to 2015 : Procter&Gamble-style (4-numbers batchcode: first number indicates the year)

Remember: during transition days, you can easily find old/new boxes using old/new batchcodes.



-----------------------------------------

Now, a short timetable.... dates and perfumes.

1972: Gucci makes a 10-years agreement with Scannon fragrance group.
1972: "Gucci", also known as "Parfum 1" (discontinued in 1992)
1976: Gucci pour Homme (discontinued in 1990)

1982: Renewed agreement with Scannon, including relaunch and repackaging of previous perfumes.
1982: Eau de Gucci concentrèe (discontinued in 1992)
1985: Gucci nr.3 (discontinued in 1999)

1980s: Years of complicate moves. 
Mennen buy Scannon Fragrance Group. 
Colonia Inc. (later "Muelhens Inc.") buy Scannon (and all Gucci perfumes) from Mennen.
1988: Gucci Nobile (discontinued in 2003)
1991: Gucci L'Arte (discontinued in 1993)

1993: "Investcorp" group buy 100% and fully owns Gucci brand, beginning a drastic cost-cutting operation. 
1994: Wella acquires Muelhens (including Scannon and Gucci perfumes). 
Wella will produce all Gucci perfumes (under the Scannon label) from 1994 to 2004.
1993: Eau de Gucci (relaunched and tweaked from old 1982 version), discontinued in 2002.

1994: Tom Ford appointed as Gucci Creative Director until 2004. He will supervision all Gucci perfumes from 1997 ("Envy") until 2004 ("Envy Me").
1995: Gucci Accenti (discontinued in 2003)
1997: Envy (discontinued in 2011)
1998: Envy for Men (discontinued in 2011)

1999: PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute) acquires 42% of Gucci, merging in PPR-Gucci (Gucci perfumes are still produced by Wella, and always under the Scannon label)
1999: Rush (still being produced in 2017)
2000: Rush for Men (discontinued in 2011)
2001: Rush 2 (discontinued in 2011)
2002: Gucci Eau de Parfum  (discontinued in 2011)

2004: PPR acquires 99% of Gucci, and Gucci perfumes are sold to Procter&Gamble (P&G).
2003: Gucci Eau de Parfum 2 (still being produced in 2017)
2003: Gucci pour Homme  (discontinued in 2011)
2003: Gucci Rush Summer (limited edition, discontinued)
2004: Envy Me (still being produced in 2017)
2006: Envy Me 2 (discontinued in 2011)
--------------------------------------------------------------
during 2006 there is batchcode shift from Wella to P&G
--------------------------------------------------------------
2007: Gucci pour Homme 2  (still being produced in 2017)       
2007: Gucci By Gucci 
2008: Gucci By Gucci (for Men)
2009: Gucci Flora
2010: Gucci Guilty
2010: Gucci by Gucci Sport
and many others .....


Since 2008: all "new" scents (i.e GucciByGucci, Gucci Flora, Gucci Guilty etc...) were launched with the new P&G label,
BUT: many "old" perfumes continued to use old boxes ("Scannon SA, address Rue de Miromesnil") in 2011, 2012, 2013, etc..  
and finally....
2015: Procter&Gamble sells Gucci perfumes to Coty                                                                 
                                                                                

-------------------------------------------------

The early days....


GUCCI (1972) (also known as: "Parfum 1", for women).
discontinued in 1992.
Available as Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Cologne, and Eau Fraiche.
Different letterings: 
"Gucci" (early bottles)
"Gucci Parfum 1" 
"Gucci Parfum N°1" (late bottles)

Gucci nr 1, year 1976
Eau de Parfum Atomiseur/Airspray
Parfum splash
Eau de Parfum splash




Gucci, EdP, year 1979





Early bottle , 60 ml / 2 oz. splash

(from Ebay) Gucci parfum 1, spray



GRUNDPREIS-159-92-100ML-GUCCI-PARFUM-1-EAU-DE-PARFUM-125ML-SPRAY
Parfum 1, EdP, splash

Parfum 1 EdP, box

Parfum N°1 (late bottle)

Parfum N°1 box (late bottle)
Gucci N°1, EdP, 60ml splash bottle



(from Ebay) Splash-on Cologne


Eau Fraiche

Gucci Parfum 1, Eau de Parfum, mid 1980s,
with unusual superimposed sticker


------------------------------------------------------------------

GUCCI pour Homme (1976) ("the first one"): 
discontinued in 1990.
1st serie, "rectangular" bottle: years 1976-1981
2nd serie, rounded "belt" bottle: years 1982-1990 




Gucci pour Homme Ad, year 1976


Gucci pour Homme Ad, year 1981




Gucci pour Homme, first serie, rectangular bottle







Gucci pour Homme spray, 2nd serie, rounded, "belt" bottle

Gucci pour Homme spray, 2nd serie, "belt" bottle


Gucci pour homme, year 1987



Gucci pour Homme 2nd serie (1982-1990)
Typical box and bottle 

--------------------------------------------------

....in 1982 we launched Eau de Gucci for women and relaunch all previous perfumes (Parfum1 and Gucci pour Homme) with new package and new bottles....

-----------------------------------------------------

EAU DE GUCCI ("Eau de Gucci Concentrèe" or "Concentrated") for women
Launched in 1982, discontinued in 1993.

Relaunched in 1993 as "Eau de Gucci", same name but tweaked scent. 




"Concentrèe"

GUCCI-EAU-DE-GUCCI-CONCENTREE-4-2-oz-125ml-SPRAY
"Concentrated"

166-50EUR-100ML-EAU-DE-GUCCI-CONCENTREE-WOMAN-30ML-EAU-CONCENTRATED-SPRAY-NEU
"Concentrated"

60ml Splash bottle

EAU-DE-GUCCI-CONCENTREE-SPLASH-120-ML-4-FL-0Z-LOOKS-FULL
120ml Splash Bottle

250ml Splash bottle



Label under the bottle


Eau de Gucci Concentrèe, 25ml, refillable spray,
late bottle, year 1992

------------------------------------------------------

GUCCI N.3 (1985) for women
discontinued in 1999.






Gucci nr.3 late bottle with address Rue de Castiglione

Gucci nr. 3
address "Rue de Castiglione" = 1997-1999



Year 1987 ad

Year 1990 ad

------------------------------------

GUCCI NOBILE (1988) 
discontinued in 2003





Gucci Nobile distributed in Italy by Colonia SpA
(label with greendot = after 1992)


Gucci Nobile
distributed in USA by Stern, years 1993-1996

Gucci Nobile, distributed by Intecosmetics (1997-2003)


Gucci Nobile, address Rue de Castiglione,
batch 30290 = year 2000



Year 1989 Ad


-----------------------------------------------------

The bad days..... 
Beginning of Nineties was the worst period in Gucci History. A lot of financial problems and family feuds affected the house, and bankruptcy was behind the corner... 

--------------------------------------------------

GUCCI  L'ARTE  (1991)
Launched in 1991, without the involvement of Gucci's house, it was a major selling failure, almost immediately discontinued. This is the last Gucci perfume with the wording "Scannon Les parfums Gucci" on the box.
Available in different bottles for EdT and EdP, splash and spray.






Gucci l'Arte (1991) dist. by Scannon 

------------------------------

EAU de GUCCI (1993)
It was a tweaking of 1982 scent (without the word concentrèe ). Available as EdT only.
Discontinued in 2003

You could read on the box or bottle
"Distributed by Stern Fragrances" (1993-1996) or
"Distributed by Intercosmetics" (1996-2003)



Eau de Gucci (edition 1993), year 1993

Eau de Gucci, 50ml, year 1993



Eau de Gucci (1993), address Rue de Castiglione
distributed by Intercosmetics,  year 1998



----------------------------------------------

GUCCI ACCENTI
Launched in 1995, discontinued in 2003. 
Available as EdT and Perfume.

You could read on the box or bottle
"Distributed by Stern Fragrances" (1993-1996) or
"Distributed by Intercosmetics" (1996-2003)













Gucci Accenti, year 1995
distributed by STERN in USA, and by Colonia in Italy




Accenti, address Rue de Castiglione
distributed by Intercosmetics = between 1997-2003.



Accenti distributed by Colonia Spa,
 batch 30132 =year 2002

----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Days of Glory.

"...thanks to Tom Ford, during 1994-2004 Gucci becomes a major force in the world of Fashion. Gucci perfumes were produced by Wella, using its own batchcode. The first scent produced under Tom Ford's supervision was "Envy" (for woman, year 1997), followed by "Envy for Men" (year 1998), and others. All these perfumes have in common a strong personality."
-----------------------------------------------------

PAY ATTENTION NOW:
An important clue derives from the address on the box:
if: "Scannon, Rue de Castiglione": 1997- 2002
if: "Scannon, Rue Francois 1er": 2003-2008
if: "Scannon, Rue de Miromesnil": 2008-2011
"Prestige&Beautè" label appeared since 2010-2011.

Batch codes:
From 1994, until 2006: "Wella"-style batchcodes (same as Rochas. Briefly: the last number you read is the year.)
2006-2015: "Procter&Gamble"-style batch codes (4 numbers, the first one is the year).



-----------------------------------------

GUCCI ENVY (1997)
Available as EdT, EdP and Parfum.
"distributed by Intercosmetics" until 2003
discontinued in 2011

Risultati immagini per gucci envy advertisement



Envy, batch 03N8 (Wella-type)
= year 1998, November.

Envy, Year 2008
long list of ingredients

Envy, address Rue de Mirimesnil,
batch 9020 = year 2009


Envy, Eau de Parfum

Envy, Parfum.
Envy, Parfum, year 1997.


-----------------------------------------

GUCCI ENVY FOR MEN (1998)

reformulated in 2004,
then reformulated again in 2008.
discontinued in 2011.


Risultati immagini per gucci envy for men advertisement


Envy for Men, miniature, year 1998
distributed by Intercosmetics, address "Rue de Castiglione".

Envy for Men, early bottle, year 1998
distributed by Intercosmetics, address "Rue de Castiglione".


Envy for Men, year 2008
Address "Rue de Miromesnil",


Envy for Men, batchcode Wella-style
batch 30108 = October, 1998

Envy for Men, sealed bottle from a Gucci store
Wella-style batch code  01D5EE = December, 2005


Envy For Men, batchcode Procter&Gamble-type
batch 6235 = year 2006


Envy for Men, batchcode Procter&Gamble-style,
9051 = year 2009

------------------------------------

GUCCI RUSH (1999)
Currently on production (2017).


Risultati immagini per gucci rush advertisement


Risultati immagini per gucci rush advertisement


Gucci Rush, address Rue de Castiglione
Wella-style batchcode  0199 = year 1999

Very rare "Summer" edition, Wella-style batchcodes,
batch code 0125TTR = February 2005


Gucci Rush, Procter&Gamble-style batchcode
 7186 = year 2007 (from Ebay)


Rush, year 2010, address Rue de Miromesnil

------------------------------------------

GUCCI RUSH for Men (2000)
discontinued in 2011.


Risultati immagini per gucci rush for men advertisement

Rush for Men, year 2000,
Address Rue de Castiglione, distributed by Intercosmetics

Gucci Rush for Men, address Rue de Castiglione
Wella style batchcode,  0191T = year 2001 

Very interesting picture from Ebay showing Rush for Men,
Wella-style batchcodes, 0390 = September 2000
and 048O0 = October 2000


--------------------------------

GUCCI RUSH 2 (2001)
reformulated in 2008,
discontinued in 2011.



Risultati immagini per gucci rush 2 advertisement

Rush 2, year 2001, address Rue de Castiglione

Rush 2, year 2008, address "Rue Francois 1er" 

Rush2, year 2009. Address Rue de Miromesnil


Rush 2, year 2010, "P&G Prestige" label

------------------------------------------

GUCCI Eau de Parfum (2002)
never reformulated, 
discontinued in 2011.




1-6-oz-GUCCI-CLASSIC-EDP-EAU-DE-PARFUM-50ML-FOR-WOMEN-BNIB-SEALED


Gucci "Eau de Parfum", year 2002
address Rue de Castiglione, short list of ingredients

Gucci Eau de Parfum, year 2005
Address Rue Francois 1er
Gucci Eau de Parfum, year 2009
Address Rue de Miromesnil

--------------------------------
GUCCI Eau de Parfum 2 (2003)
currently in production (2017)


Risultati immagini per gucci eau de parfum 2 advertisement


Gucci Eau de Parfum 2, old address Rue de Miromesnil
Batch P&G style,
2082 = year 2012

--------------------------------

GUCCI POUR HOMME (2003)
never reformulated,
discontinued in 2011.



Gucci pour Homme, batchcode Wella-style,
batch 01N5 = November 2005


Gucci pour Homme, address Rue Francois,
with short ingredient list, batchcode: Wella-type
 batch 0163 = year 2003, June.

year 2006 ("Rue Francois") and year 2010 ("Rue Miromesnil")
side-by-side (authentic bottles from a Gucci boutique)

Batchcode Procter&Gamble style, 
old box with short list of ingredients,
batch 7110 = year 2007.


-----------------------------------

GUCCI ENVY ME (2004)
reformulated in 2008,
currently in production (2017)


Risultati immagini per "gucci envy me" advertisement


Envy Me year 2004
Address Rue Francois 1er
Envy me, year 2009
address Rue de Miromesnil

Envy Me, old address "Rue de Miromesnil",
batch code 3007 = year 2013


----------------------------------

"....in the middle of 2006 the production lines shifted from Wella to Procter&Gamble. In this year you can see the change of the batchcodes....."

-----------------------------------------


GUCCI ENVY ME 2 (2006)
discontinued in 2011

Immagine correlata


Envy Me 2, year 2006
Address Rue Francois 1er


---------------------------------

GUCCI POUR HOMME 2 (2007)
reformulated in 2010,
Still in production (2017).





Gucci pour Homme 2, first bottle produced,
address Rue Francois 1er


Gucci pour Homme 2, year 2016, with the very outdated
address Rue de Miromesnil


Gucci pour Homme 2, with the outdated address "Rue de Miromesnil",
batch 5332 = year 2015 

Gucci pour Homme II, year 2017
Coty Label ("Rue du Quatre Septembre").

-------------------------------------------
GucciByGucci (2007)


Nel label P&G, batchcode 8081 = year 2008

------------------------------
After 2010


Gucci by Gucci Sport, launched in 2010, label P&G,
 batch 0188 = year 2010



Typical Gucci boxes produced between 2011 and 2016
with the Prestige Beaute Label


Typical Gucci boxes after 2015,
 with the Coty label



-----------------------------------------------------------------------
All pictures (source is unknown) provided by friends.
If you are owner of these pictures please send a message and
we 'll immediately remove them.





Opium, the Greatest.

$
0
0



"It will be the Greatest, and we will call it Opium"
(Yves Saint Laurent, 1976)


Sexy, Sultry, Seductive, Successful: it's Opium. After Samsara, this is my second tribute to wonderful scents of my youth: this time we talk about the Greatest one.
This article is divided in 7 parts:

- Opium at a glance
- Box and bottles through the years.
- Bottles "Year-by-Year"
- The Advertisements
- The Flankers
- The Opium Universe
- Tutorial Pics

I tried to make some sort of "Opium encyclopedia". Enjoy it!


FOREWORD: for any reference about YSL perfumes, (such as words as "batchcodes", "barcodes", "greendot", or "Charles of the Ritz", "Parfums Corp.", "Sanofi", "Gucci-Era", etc.... check this guide.) ....and remember YSL is famous for messing up boxes, labels and bottles! 

-----------------------------------------
Part 1:
OPIUM at a Glance



- Launched during Year 1977 in France (1978 in USA), it was the fifth perfume by Yves Saint Laurent (after "Y", 1964; "Pour Homme", 1971; "Rive Gauche", 1971; and "Eau Libre", 1975).

- Created by Jean Louis Sieuzac, Jean Amic and Raymond Chaillan, three noses from "Roure", YSL's preferred perfume factory.

- Opium "Eau de Toilette" was so concentrated that they didn't even launch an "Eau de Parfum" (19%, Eau de Toilette, 30% Parfum)

- It was the first mass fragrance using the, new, revolutionary "natural spray" mechanism, instead of the usual gas-propellant" one; 

- The "Perfume" was purposely sold at an higher price than "Chanel N.5". Despite this, every bottle was sold within hours.

- Opium was arguably the most successful fragrance in the world: in just nine months, it amassed the astonishing amount of $3 million. At the time, Yves Saint Laurent did not owned YSL perfumes (it was "Charles of the Ritz"), and he received only a small percentage for any bottle sold. Then he decided to buy back the whole thing (YSL "Parfums Corp.", in year 1986). Actually, it was YSL's fortune.

- The tassels of the perfume bottles were difficult to obtain; production slowed down periodically, because of their scarcity. 

- Opium is one of the most counterfeited perfumes in history: someone calculated there are ten fake bottles, for every authentic one. Therefore, it's likely a lot of people have never experienced the real Opium; they always wore a fake fragrance.

The Japanese "inro" and the Opium splash bottle

- The traditional Opium "splash" bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand, was inspired by the so-called "inro", a Japanese lacquered small case, worn under the kimono.

- The name "Opium" caused a violent stir because it was named after a drug. It was banned in a few countries, but the controversy made the fragrance to gain a lot of attention and publicity.

- The party held in New York (September 1978) for the launch in USA, was one of the wildest, iconic and most sumptuous of the Seventies. 

A very easy method to detect early bottles is to find the mark "80°" alcohol volume. Later than 1980, the sign "80°" was forbidden and substituted with "80%". Obviously, old boxes were used until end of stocks, so you can find "80°" in 1981,1982,1983...


-The original lineup (1977) was composed by:
- Three "EdT" spray bottles with unusual sizes: 36ml (1.2oz), 69ml (2.3oz), and 105ml (3.5oz) 
- Two "EdT" splash bottles: 60ml (2oz) and 120ml (4oz)
- Three "Parfum" bottles: 7.5ml (1/4oz), 15ml (1/2oz), 30ml (1oz), plus one 7.5 ml refillable "purse spray".
- No sticker under the bottle, but writings "embossed" on the glass and batchcode painted over (unfortunately, the batccode was very easy to remove) 

-Batchcodes: until year 2004, you will find 4-digits on the box (example: 1234) but 5 digits on the bottom of the bottle: the same 4 digits plus "1" or "2" (same example: 12341 or 12342).

......reformulated?
Opium was reformulated several times during years. According Rèmy F., once employed at L'Oreal (personal communication): "....let's consider the EdT during the last years: at least 5 or 6 reformulations occurred between 2000 and 2015.Not to mention EdP and Parfum." 
So, if you want experience something near the real Opium, be sure to find a bottle dated at least before year 2000. As usual, the older, the better.

- It was the one the first fragrance to indicate the allergens list on the box, already in 2003.


- YSL was world-famous for confusing labels, bottles and boxes. All mixed up. You will need practice to come to terms with it. Just an example: the so-called "ParfumsCorp" Era ended in 1993. Well, you will find "ParfumsCorp" labels until 1996...... 
Another example: "Sanofi" Era began in 1993. Well, you will find "Sanofi" labels since 1996!   
To date Opium bottles with accuracy, in many cases you will need box and bottles together. Checking batchcodes with Barcodes, Greendots, Labels, etc, you will know all you need.

- Put it simply....

The EAN barcode.....
If you see the EAN barcode (i.e. the classical barcode) somewhere in the box, you can say it's after 1990.

Very difficult to see: the batch code written in the bottom side of the "Parfum" boxes. Black ink over black background!  

Golden, rounded cap? This means years 1991-2003.

Flat, red cap? This means years 2003-2009.

- In a few cases it is difficult to understand what we are talking about, because some bottles were produced only for some markets, and unavailable in others.

- Believe it or not, a still-sealed vintage , traditional "splash" bottle (60ml or 120ml, 2oz or 4oz.) is almost impossible to find nowadays, and it's one of the pieces most sought after by collectors.


--------------------------------
Part 2:
Box and bottle Styles 
--------------------------------
SPRAY

Spray EdT bottles 
(1977-1991)
1977-1991: "Original" bottle, with non-removable cap,
"YvesSaintLaurent" written in golden letters over a BLACK background, on the bottom of the box. Plain, not-decorated bottle. Sizes: 36ml, 69ml, 105ml ( 1.2oz, 2.3oz., 3.5oz), 

plus a rare 25ml/0.8 oz (spray) with removable cap.
Apparently a big 135ml /4.5 oz bottle (fixed cap) was produced only for a few markets.


Spray EdT bottles 
(1991-2003)

1991- 2003 : "Nineties"-style spray bottle, with removable golden cap.
"YSL" still written on BLACK background on the bottom of the box
Richly-decorated bottle. Sizes 30ml, 50ml, 100ml (1oz, 1.6oz, 3.3oz). 

Apparently a 20ml /0.7 oz EdT spray bottle was produced too, for a few markets.


Spray bottles 
(2003-2009)

2003-2009 : "Gucci"style, spray bottle with removable flat, red cap.
"YvesSaintLaurent" written without a black background on the box.
Mildly-decorated bottle. Sizes: 30ml, 50ml, 100ml (1oz, 1.6oz, 3.3oz).

Apparently a 15 ml EdT bottle was produced, only for a few markets.


Spray Bottles 
since 2009
Since 2009 : "L'Oreal-style" box and bottles

                     

--------------------------------------------
SPLASH BOTTLES

EdT "Splash" Bottles 
(1977-2003, then discontinued)
Years 1977-2003, then discontinued. 
Sizes: 60ml and 120 ml (2oz , 4 oz)


------------------------------------------
EAU de PARFUM (since 1991)

Splash and Spray bottles 
labelled as "Secret de Parfum"
(launched in 1991, discontinued in 2003)
"Secret de Parfum", 1991-2003, then discontinued
10ml, 50ml, Spray
"Secret de Parfum", splash bottle (1991-2003)


Classic "Eau de Parfum", 2003-2009.

EdP "Gucci-style" bottle (2003-2009), in plastic case.


EdP, since 2009
EdP "L'Oreal-style" bottle (since 2009)




---------------------------
"Parfum" bottles


Parfum, 1977-2003
Iconic Opium bottle with tassel, sizes: 7.5ml., 15ml, 30ml.
Parfum 7.5 ml Spray Refillable (1977-2003) 



Parfum, 2003-2009
Years 2003-2009:  7.5ml, 15ml, 30ml. 


Parfum, since 2009
Parfum since 2009 ("squared" box)


----------------------------------
----------------------------------
Part 3:
Year-by-Year
-----------------------------------
-----------------------------------

Year 1977 


 
 
Year 1977 leaflet



---------------------------------
Year 1978
EdT spray bottle 69ml / 2.3oz. 








------------------------------------------------
Year 1981
Batch 1163 = year 1981


--------------------------------------------
Year 1982 
EdT 60ml splash bottle




---------------------------------------------
Year 1983 
120ml/4oz. splash bottle with leaflet


NOTE: the old "80°" lettering


60ml splash bottle, batch 31371 = year 1983
NOTE the old "80°" lettering
-------------------------------
year 1983, again...
EdT Spray bottle, 36 ml, batch 33001 = year 1983

----------------------------------
Year 1984
36ml EdT Spray bottles



batch 4284 = year 1984

-------------------------------
Year 1984, again...
EdT spray bottle 69ml / 2.3 oz


batch 4024 = year 1984

-----------------------------
Year 1984, again...
Edt spray bottle 105ml / 3.5oz. (tester)
notice: no sticker, "105 ml" and "3.5oz." engraved on the glass
- batch 4353 painted on the glass-


---------------------------
Year 1985
Parfum 15 ml, batch 5270 = year 1985

------------------------------------
Year 1986

Parfum, batch 6179 = year 1986

Rare 25ml spray bottle batch 6328 = year 1986


60ml splash bottle, batch 6244= year 1986

-------------------------------------
Year 1987
Parfum, 7.5 ml, batch 12381 = year 1987

60 ml splash bottle,
batch 7185 = year 1987

-------------------------------------
Year 1989
Parfum, 7.5 ml, batch 90811 = year 1989


-----------------------------------
Year 1990
50ml spray bottle, ParfumsCorp label,
batch 02741 = year 1990

------------------------------------------------------

Years 1991/1992:
new spray bottles with removable golden cap
 10ml, 30ml(1oz), 50ml(1.6oz), 100ml(3.3oz)
plus "Secret de Parfum" (splash and spray)

Opium "Secret de Parfum" spray mini-bottle 10ml



-----------------
Year 1991
Opium "Secret de Parfum"
50 ml /1.6 oz, spray bottle, batch 1294 

Opium Secret de Parfum, batch 1294 = year 1991

30ml edt spray bottle, ParfumsCorp label
batch 12681 = year 1991

--------------------
Year 1992
The new bottle, richly-decorated, 
with removable, golden cap

30ml EdT bottle with removable golden cap, batch 22671
year 1992

15ml parfum, batch 2162, year 1992


----------------------------------------------
Year 1994
EdT spray 100ml / 3.3oz. bottle, batch 41301 = year 1994
EdT 60ml / 2 oz. splash bottle, batch 42081 

"ParfumsCorp" label, ,
batch 4208 = year 1994

--------------------------------
Year 1995
120ml/ 4oz. EdT splash bottle, batch 53101 = year 1995

EdT 100 ml / 3.3 oz spray bottle , batch 50861
NOTE the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label instead of the Sanofi one.

EdT 50 ml / 1.6 oz spray bottle , batch 50821
NOTE the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label instead of the Sanofi one.

--------------
year 1996
EdT 30ml / 1oz. spray bottle,  batch 61442
NOTE the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label, instead of the Sanofi one.

50ml spray bottle, ParfusCorp label,
batch 62551 = year 1996

50ml spray bottle batch 6273 = year 1996
Note for the first time the "new" SANOFI label



--------------------
year 1997
EdT 100ml / 3.3 oz spray bottle, batch 73091
with the Sanofi label
EdT 50ml spray bottle, Sanofi label,
batch 72452 = year 1997

---------------------------------------
year 1998
Secret de Parfum 10 ml, batch 82011 = year 1998
notice: the obsolete YSL "ParfumsCorp" plastic case

EdT 120ml / 4oz. splash bottle, batch 82261 = year 1998

EdT spray bottle, 50ml / 1.6 oz. , batch 81261

EdT spray bottle 30 ml, batch 81321

----------------------------
year 1999

EdT 100ml /3.3oz. spray bottle (Tester), 
"Sanofi" sticker, batch 91091 

EdT 30ml / 1fl. oz , batch 93571
Parfum 30ml / 1oz , batch 91861

-------------------------------
Year 2000
EdT, 30 ml Spray, Sanofi label, batch 0096 = year 2000

50ml spray bottle, batch 0152 = year 2000


Splash bottle, 60 ml, Sanofi label,
 batch 02582 = year 2000

Secret de Parfum, 30ml, batch 00661 = year 2000
note the VERY OLD label ParfumsCorp

----------------------------------
Year 2001
EdT Spray, 50 ml
Note the OLD Sanofi label , instead of "Gucci" one,

 batch code 10021 = year 2001

Edt Spray, 50 ml, with the new "Gucci" label,
batch 12771 = year 2001 


-------------------------
Year 2002

Splash bottle batch 2330 = year 2002


30ml spray bottle, Gucci label,
batch 21501 = year 2002

-------------------------
Year 2003: 
new "Gucci-era" bottles
(with flat red cap; with plastic EdP spray bottles, with glass EdT spray, mildly-decorated bottles; all splash bottles discontinued; all "Secret de Parfum" bottles discontinued)

NOTICE: the bottom changes its color and it's 
not BLACK anymore.
EdT, in red box (glass, mildly-decorated bottle)
----------------------------------
Eau de Parfum, golden box (in plastic case)
-----------------------------------------
Parfum
----------------------------------


Opium "Secret de Parfum", last bottle produced,
Gucci label, batch 30871 = year 2003

Yves-Saint-Laurent-Opium-Eau-De-Toilette-Spray-1-6oz-50ml
50ml spray bottle, batch 32341 = year 2003

--------------------------------------
Year 2004
"Summer Fragrance / Eau d'Ete", batch 40282


15 ml, Edt Spray,, Gucci label,
batch 42931 = year 2004


--------------------------------------
Year 2005
 EdP bottle 50ml / 1.6 oz., Gucci label,
batch 5AAA 


Guccci label, batch 5FBA = year 2005
---------------------------
Year 2006
EdP 50 ml / 1.6 oz, batch 6IAA
EdT 50ml / 1.6oz , batch 6EAA

Parfum 7.5 ml, bottom of the external box,
 batch 6KAA = year 2006 

--------------------------------------
Year 2007
Edt 30 ml, Batch 7IBD = year 2007 

EdT, 100ml spray bottle, Gucci label,
batch 7DAB = year 2007 


Eau de Parfum, 50 ml, batch 7xxx = year 2007


-----------------------------------
year 2008

EdP bottle 50ml / 1.6 oz., batch 8BAB

EdT bottle 100ml 3.3 oz,  with the B.R.I. L'Oreal label,
batch 8BAA = year 2008


Parfum 30ml, batch 8CAA



---------------------------------
Year 2009 
(last "Gucci"-type bottles)
EdT 30ml /1 oz. batch 9BCA
NOTICE the "new" L'Oreal label with the B.R.I. lettering

50ml spray bottle batch 9IAA = year 2009
Note the B.R.I. lettering

raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.it
New l'Oreal bottle EdP 90ml,
batch code 9KAB = year 2009

------------------------------------------
Year 2009: 
new "L'Oreal" bottles.
EdT
EdP
Parfum

-------------------------------------
Part 4:
Advertisements
-------------------------------------


1977-1982 (Jerry Hall)









---------------------
1980s





--------------------
1987 (Linda Evangelista, 1st)


--------------------
1992 (Nastasia Urbano)





-------------------

1990s



------------------------------------
1993-1995 (Kate Moss, 1st)





-------------------
1996-1998 (Linda Evangelista, 2nd)




---------------------
1999 (Natalia Semenova)



----------------------

2000s



----------------------
2000 (Sophie Dahl)



---------------------
2003 (Kate Moss, 2nd)




--------------------
2006 (Maria Carla Boscono)



--------------------------
2008 (Malgorzata Bela)


------------------------------
2009 (Karen Elson)



---------------------------
2011 (Emily Blunt)





---------------------------
Part 5:
FLANKERS
----------------------------


year 1998:
Fraicheur d'Orient

-----------------------------------------------

year 2002: 
Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance


--------------------------------------
year 2003:

Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance 2003


----------------------------------
year 2004:
Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance 2004
----------------------------
year 2005: 
Fleur de Shanghai


-----------------------------------------------
year 2006: 2 flankers

Fleur Imperiale

Oriental Collector's Edition 2006


plus: Opium Prestige (special bottle)


-------------------------------
year 2007: 3 flankers

Legendes de Chine

Orchidee de Chine

Orient Extreme

--------------------------------------------------------------
year 2008: 2 flankers

Poesie de Chine

Elixir Voluptueux

plus: Collector's Edition 2008 (special bottle)




------------------------------
Part 6:
The Opium Universe
------------------------------


Necklace
Perfumed Necklace

Parfum Spray 7.5ml refillable + Pochette

Parfum Spray 7.5 ml Refillable, plus Pochette.

Advertising Card

http://s04.radikal.ru/i177/1503/4b/c1469534d831.jpg
Edt 30 ml splash, "Inro" Bottle


Miniature 7.5ml

Miniature

Miniature, 7.5 ml, year 2002 (Gucci-Era)

Scented Ceramic
Secret de Parfum, Vial plus Tassel Key Ring

Heart-shaped, limited edition year 2007

EdT Limited edition year 1995  

EdT Limited edition year 1995 

15th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum year 1992

15th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum year 1992

Opium Parfum, limited edition 15ml bottle


Gucci-Era, year 2000s, Parfum 3.5ml 

Yves Saint Laurent limited edition Opium, £1,700 EDP
Opium 40th Anniversary limited edition (2017)

------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------
Part 7:
TUTORIAL PICS
-----------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------


The rare "Made in USA" 2.3 oz bottle
(thanks to Kafkaesque Blog)
The rare "Made in USA" bottle, 1.2 oz (36ml.)

The "Made in Usa" sticker under the spray bottle


The "Made in USA" sticker under the splash bottle.


The rare "Made in USA" leaflet. NOTE: as you can read, the 105 ml (3.5oz) spray bottle and the 120ml (4oz) splash bottle were NOT produced in USA.

The "Made in Usa" leaflet


1980s Spray bottle, 36 ml. 

1970s spray bottle, 36 ml  (1.2 oz)


Early EdT spray bottle, 69 ml,
Note the "80°" sign instead of "80%"

EdT spray bottle, 105 ml

EdT Spray bottle, 105 ml, 3.5 oz (year 1984)

Parfum 7.5 ml rechargeable

Late 1980s, Parfum, 7.5 ml, refill spray

Parfum, 7.5 ml purse spray with Pochette 

Rare 25ml / 0.8oz spray bottle (1980s) with removable cap

Another uncommon bottle: 0.7 oz / 20 ml (removable cap)
with "ParfumsCorp" label


The classic "ParfumsCorp" label: although "ParfumsCorp" Era lasted from 1986 to 1993,
you can see this label used until 1996....and beyond

A typical "Sanofi" label. "Sanofi" Era lasted from 1993 to 1999,
but you can see "Sanofi" labels starting in 1996.....


A typical Gucci-label: The Gucci era lasted from 1999 to 2007,
but you can see this label since 2001.


1990s Spray bottle, 30 ml,  with old "fixed" cap.




Parfum, 15ml, with Gucci label




"Gucci" Parfum bottle, year 2005 ingredients

L'Oreal Parfum bottle, year 2009 ingredients
(different from previous pic)
Eau de Toilette, Year 2007 "Ingredients" 

-------------------------------------------------------------

.....and thanks to all the fans around the world 
who have supported me in this work.
Love you all,
Laura.


(All pictures provided by friends, from unknown sources; if some copyright is violated, please advice us and we'll remove pictures immediately)
Viewing all 110 articles
Browse latest View live